The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Member Services => Sales and Services => Beaky's Pinball Repairs => Topic started by: beaky on January 07, 2013, 01:34:13 AM
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the unnamed person (who is not a sponsor of this site) has got this board going so the machine could be sold, now only a few months later the board has died and will need all the previous repair work removed and then done properly.
If you don't get rid of the corrosion properly it WILL come back worse than what it was in the first place.
I will show you how it should look, stay tuned &&
EDIT
I have removed the photos as it is not right to knock other peoples work.
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at least they fitted IC sockets - <.>
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Hmmm.. not a pretty sight :D *.*
I pulled a set of those eclipse brand batteries out of a Data East LAH just yesterday.. im now wondering if the same repairer did the board work on it as who did this one !@#
I've come across a couple of games recently that someone has used this style battery holder and just soldered them in and left them hanging by the wires *!@
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Good to see you weaving your magic on this one Andrew - its from a guy i am helping out here in Townsville. He also bought another machine where the seller had snipped off the D2 blocking diode (and jumpered it!) so the batteries were going flat all the time....
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Looks like my woeful soldering && && - Only joking.-not me. *.*
PS Havent forgotten about sending that old MPU board, Andrew - you will get it eventually.
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Andrew - I'm seeing exactly what you describe. The "corner's cut" are increasingly of a poor standard. I recall one "service department" using Soldering Irons that were better suited to Car battery terminals ! I'm glad you are bringing this to our attention as I have my own "Rogue Gallery" of attempted repairs which have caused MORE problems than the original !
I'm keen to see the boards after you have weaved your magic. I believe this is the standard pinball enthusiasts should be expecting.
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thanks for the kind words guys.
it's a sad story strangeways, many people have told me with sincerity how wonderful some of these repairs are and they have done repairs on their boards, i then look at the repairs and !@# all i see is a butcher job.
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That's awful....
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here are photos of the board with all the damaged parts removed, I had one trace break on me but i am sure there will be several more i will wave to add jumpers for.
you will be surprised how many times there is corrosion under the headers as you can see
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I've come across a couple of games recently that someone has used this style battery holder and just soldered them in and left them hanging by the wires *!@
The remote battery pack is a good idea but it must be done in a way that it can't short on anything.
I had an instance were a person transported a machine with one of the open style battery packs and when the back box was put up the battery pack hooked on one of the transistors in the display driver HV section. he didn't open the back box before turning it on and !!! ^&^ every board required repairs after that.
I have started using the Button style batteries but the only worry i have with that is that the customer has to carry AA batteries and lithium button batteries if they have multiple machines and i am not sure on how long the Button style batteries will last. I know GTB use them in their system 3 CPU boards but they are a larger style cell.
I have a system 11 and 6 wms machines with them fitted and will see how long they last as a test.
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I have started using the Button style batteries but the only worry i have with that is that the customer has to carry AA batteries and lithium button batteries if they have multiple machines and i am not sure on how long the Button style batteries will last. I know GTB use them in their system 3 CPU boards but they are a larger style cell.
I have a system 11 and 6 wms machines with them fitted and will see how long they last as a test.
From my experience in the computer industry with BIOS batteries (lithium button) I would be surprised if you didn't get a good 7 to 10 years out of them.
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I have started using the Button style batteries but the only worry i have with that is that the customer has to carry AA batteries and lithium button batteries if they have multiple machines and i am not sure on how long the Button style batteries will last. I know GTB use them in their system 3 CPU boards but they are a larger style cell.
I have a system 11 and 6 wms machines with them fitted and will see how long they last as a test.
From my experience in the computer industry with BIOS batteries (lithium button) I would be surprised if you didn't get a good 7 to 10 years out of them.
Thanks, but i recently had to replace one that wasn't that old in a pimped / restored scared stiff. But I don't know if the cpu board was removed and the battery was shorted because the board was not stored correctly while the rest of the machine was pimped out.
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next the corrosion is removed, all the solder throughs have the solder removed, all holes are cleaned with a drill bit to remove any corrosion that may have worked its way into the solder throughs.
the board is cleaned and the top is clear lacquered before any components are fitted.
the reason for this is so there is no bare exposed copper under any I.C.s or other components.
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Wow .. doesn't look like the same board !
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and when it's all done it looks like this.
i have had to add several jumpers on the back and as always i secure them with epoxy
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Great work mate ^^^ you saved another butchered board.
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the prep work is the worst part, I try and do these repairs in batches when i can.
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Have you found a good source for the inductors? Apparently, the originals are obsolete.
I try to use NVRAMs when I can, but the coin cell and remote battery holders are more cost effective. Also, in games that use the RTC, like TZ, a real battery is a requirement so the clock displays the correct time.
I have a few boards like this that I have been hanging on to to try and repair at some time.. but man, as you show, it's a lot of work. Also haven't found a cost-effective source for the little yellow caps below the battery holder. At a buck or so apiece, that adds up quick!
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Have you found a good source for the inductors? Apparently, the originals are obsolete.
I try to use NVRAMs when I can, but the coin cell and remote battery holders are more cost effective. Also, in games that use the RTC, like TZ, a real battery is a requirement so the clock displays the correct time.
I have a few boards like this that I have been hanging on to to try and repair at some time.. but man, as you show, it's a lot of work. Also haven't found a cost-effective source for the little yellow caps below the battery holder. At a buck or so apiece, that adds up quick!
I rewind the inductors with the same gauge insulated wire as the ferrite rod has always been reusable so far.
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Andrew - looks brilliant mate, look forward to putting it back in this bloke's machine. Thanks again
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Got this board back today and the work is nothing short of brilliant - top stuff!
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glad to here it. ^^^
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You've done a beautiful job on the board Andrew.
I can see countless hours of your time and a lot of patience put into it to get it looking so good. ^^^
With the Lithium batteries , i've been installing them on the boards I repair for close to 7 years now.
I've found that the smaller type 20mm button cells like you've used don't seem to last too long when put on all WPC type cpu boards , or earlier Williams system 6 and 7 boards either for some reason.
On these type of boards I am now using a slightly larger 24mm lithium battery ,CR2450 which so far are working great and holding their charge.
The smaller 20mm type CR2032 do however work great on early Bally -35 mpu's and similar, I have one on my test bench that has been on the board around 7 years and is still reading over 3 volts!
The 20mm type also work great on Gottlieb system 1 , System 80 , Williams system 11 , Data east and Hankin mpu boards.
The previous repair to the board you've worked on here is only average from looking at it.
I'm fairly sure of the repairer your referring to , i've seen the Green texta before but then again it may be someone else
Either way , even though the repairwork is only average it really isn't good form to ever bag another repairers work no matter how bad it is “even though you didn't name them the suggestion is still there”.
Just think that if the was done better in the first place and the board hadn't broken down , you wouldn't have gotten the job...so they've actually done you a favour....that's the way I always look at it.
Again , excellent job on the board!