The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: oldskool1969 on January 20, 2013, 12:55:01 AM
-
Well here we go. With no to little help I will begin my OLDSKOOL resto journey.
I have owned this machine since 1995 when I bought my house and needed something for the drunken bums to play on for my house warming to stop them trashing my humble abode.( it worked) %.%
After buying this machine for $150 I thought it time I give a little love and bring here back to life as she is a classic wedge head.
I hope you enjoy and feel free to drop some hints or encouragement if you enjoy a good EM.
By the way this machine has the most drop targets of ANY machine with 20! yes 20 drop targets. *%*
The back glass is really nice and so is the play field so I hope it will go smoothly.
-
Classic wedge head there, looking forward to some more pics especially that great backglass!
-
Good luck and please post plenty of progress pics
-
Fantastic ! I LOVE watching EM restorations. If you like drop targets - this is your game !
-
pic of play field
-
OK as you may have noticed the light box was thrashed so had to rebuild with MDF for the front light box cover ( Dad helped with that ) and also the internal chipboard re done in MDF ( thicknesses differ so hope to fill out with weather seal ) with very little to use as a template it was difficult but not impossible. Had to glue and nail the cabinet back together also as after 40+ years she was falling apart. Sanding back to bare wood was also necessary ensure good adhesion and give for a nice surface.
Notice how they allowed for ventilation on the internal reel cover as the heat from the old 44/47 was rather hefty, also had vents on top of light box which I have kept.
I intend to use look alike warm white LED's for the whole lot when done except for a few 455 flasher globes to highlight the title.
Really stoked with the progress.
-
Nice one oldskool.
It's good to see someone other than the usual suspects post up a resto.
Keep the pics coming.
-
Pinniesforme wanted a pic of the back glass. Here it is along with a pic of my rip apart clean and re-spring of the score reels-what a mission and I am sure they will still need tweeking on start up.
Instead of telling people how i did things. I will keep it short and sweet. If any one requires more info contact me or read these fantastic resto forums just as I did. Some really good tips available.
The cleaning of the stainless rails was a great tip- WINDEX and emery cloth, who knew. ^^^
-
It looks like your doing a really nice job
I had some games on this at pinfest I love those targets I will watch with interest Howzat
-
Coming along nicely !
Regraining the siderails is the original look, and Windex does a fantastic job along with scotchbrite pads or 180 Grit wet/Dry sandpaper.
-
I have been hibernating for the last few days and this is why. Some hardware now in and also internals for light box are done ( until fault finding ) ^&^
For a matter of interest this game had 104 thousand plays and still looks good? petty some of the newer games can't attest to that stat.
The new mdf lamp cover ( what is it ? ) came up a treat. What a labour of love this is.
-
Just a couple more of the next step which is the under play filed score and relay bank etc. etc.
Photo of the game counter and also me so you if you see me in the street, STOP and say g'day. Lets find a pinball to play $#$
-
Nice progress Oldskool.
Do you think the old game counters started at zero?
I've had a few modern ones that didn't, so unless you make a record of what you started with you don't know how many games have gone through it. ^&^
Can anyone shed some light on this?
It would be interesting to know if that really is how many games have gone through it.
-
Nice progress Oldskool.
Do you think the old game counters started at zero?
I've had a few modern ones that didn't, so unless you make a record of what you started with you don't know how many games have gone through it. ^&^
Can anyone shed some light on this?
It would be interesting to know if that really is how many games have gone through it.
All I can say is that EM game counters are analog and I see no reason why they wouldn't start at Zero . The lowest one I've had was 31 thousand and something .
-
My Card Whiz play meter is at 07924 which is pretty low but I would also believe that the meters start at zero.
Nice work with the resto so far by the way! Keep it up and enjoy.
-
@@^
where can I get a hold of new labels for this job? can you buy them or any one have the templates they could share please? I would like to redo the WHOLE LOT, not just these shown.
thanks in advanced
-
@@^
where can I get a hold of new labels for this job? can you buy them or any one have the templates they could share please? I would like to redo the WHOLE LOT, not just these shown.
thanks in advanced
-
Dont know if they can be bought new !@# some how i doubt it..
I usually make my own... scan them, fix them up in photoshop and print them.
-
Bit more dicking around since last time.
score motor, relay bank board ( what do you call it? ) has now been stripped, cleaned and varnished. Notice how I didn't sand back too much so I know where everything goes back &&
Having heaps of fun doing this little project and for my first one I am learning heaps of shortcuts for the next!
Wish someone would give a tip for cleaning score motors, relays banks etc. etc. as this part is a pain in the arse @@^
-
oh yeah managed to save and scan SOME of the original labels. Still not sure what to do to fix this up as yet. Any body got decent copies?
-
I am staggered at my progress so far, I can not believe how much I am enjoying restoring this old girl to hopefully a respectable state. I know I have a few issues electrically to sort out when I plug her in, but it is a truly rewarding experience to this point. All faults I have come across have been written down and also changed coil sleeves and cleaned contacts as we go along.
Finished and fitted the tilt, score reel boards and NEW chime unit ( from Mike McCullough in Germany ) as well as a new replay knocker from PBR.
No labels as yet as I am unsure how to fix this problem.
If you have any tips on what you think will make it that little better, let me know Cheers.
Cleaned all the work area up and now the BIG DEAL - the play field ^&^. This is gonna take some time.
Really stoked
-
Looking really good ^^^ ^^^
What technique did you use to do the black webbing on the cab?? sorry if i've missed it elsewhere in the thread!
-
Looking really good ^^^ ^^^
What technique did you use to do the black webbing on the cab?? sorry if i've missed it elsewhere in the thread!
Cheers - bit of a mixture between random slashes and flicking with a small wire brush dipped in paint.
%.% I laugh as I think more was going around the cabinet than on it. Now have a splattered floor and wall in my beer drinking shed &^&
-
oh yeah managed to save and scan SOME of the original labels. Still not sure what to do to fix this up as yet. Any body got decent copies?
Email me the scans & I will Photoshop them to "as new" for you.
The rest can be "faked up" (not f**ked up) using the amazing PP technique :D
Great effort for a dumb cnut so far BTW.
-
[/quote]
Email me the scans & I will Photoshop them to "as new" for you.
The rest can be "faked up" (not f**ked up) using the amazing PP technique :D
Great effort for a dumb cnut so far BTW.
[/quote]
Cheers big ears. What I will do is sit on with you when you re touch them and learn to do it for myself.
"GIVE a man a fish and he eats for a day, TEACH a man to fish and he eats for a lifetime! ) thats firkin deep hey
the dumb cnut, he he ^^^
-
Well the dreaded play field strip has started - but what fun - DESTRUCTO !! :lol:
gonna be pretty easy with the clean up using shellite and magic eraser ( carefully ) I need suggestions on wether to clear coat, re apply full MYLAR or just clean and a bloody good wax then finish of with
MILLS WAX ( my favourite ^^^ ) ask anyone who knows me!
please please let me know your thoughts, enjoy the photos.
-
Nice Andy and holy f..k why did you strip bottom of pf ? #.#
-
With EM's I've found a regular wax is sufficient . I think Clearcoat would change both the look and the gameplay too much .
+1 to why did you strip the bottom of the playfield ?
-
Nice Andy and holy f..k why did you strip bottom of pf ? #.#
to find out how things work! also nothing to do and all day to do it :lol
-
very brave stripping the bottom.. i wont be doing that on my first resto! i dont even know how to remove a flipper !@)
-
Why did I strip the bottom you ask? Nothing ventured-nothing gained! Plenty of photos were taken and reading some great forums I am feeling VERY firkin confident/stupid/brave and hoping my electrical background and problem solving will shine through. Well thats the thought anyway %.%
If I hadn't taken risks in my life I would regret a lot of the awesome experiences I have had, which now possibly won't happen any more due to an chronic illness RA. Rheumatoid Arthritis
So what the hell () DESTRUCTO!
-
Nice Andy and holy f..k why did you strip bottom of pf ? #.#
to find out how things work! also nothing to do and all day to do it :lol
I have plenty of work here for you if your not busy %.%
-
Cabinet came up well ^^^ but no full pics of it && Regarding "unit resto" make sure moving parts operate freely and sand brass rivets 600 w/d clean up with alcohol and then use Inox no melt high temp grease on the brass rivets . only use the smallest amount thou! i would install new sleeves also while you are at it. ps inox from JCar And i forgot you had lots of time to strip everything but be careful you dont start bending switches as they are fragile. and i do know a EM repairer #@#
-
Looking good so far!
I have a GTB2001 in worse condition than yours cabinet wise so watching this with interest.
If you get stuck putting anything back together or realise you haven't taken a photo of something i should be able to help out. It's not stored at my house so may take me a few days but shoot me a PM if you need any pics.
-
Looking good so far!
I have a GTB2001 in worse condition than yours cabinet wise so watching this with interest.
If you get stuck putting anything back together or realise you haven't taken a photo of something i should be able to help out. It's not stored at my house so may take me a few days but shoot me a PM if you need any pics.
Thats a great offer, cheers. Lets hope I don't need that request filled.
-
Play field has some de-laminating so out with the PVA glue and some clamps, hope that's the way to do it?
-
that playfield looks pristine! @@*
-
Yep that's what to do.
Could you put up some close up pics of the not so good parts of the playfield?
-
Yep that's what to do.
Could you put up some close up pics of the not so good parts of the playfield?
+1 .. playfield looks to be in excellent shape
-
Amazing dedication, Andy. It is a fantastic experience to do this type of work, and credit to you for taking the plunge. Just look at the results !
With the old labels - there's not much you can do. What I like to to is laminate the originals, and then staple them back into position.
Keep going mate - Envisage yourself playing this beautiful machine in a month or two !
-
Cabinet came up well ^^^ but no full pics of it && Regarding "unit resto" make sure moving parts operate freely and sand brass rivets 600 w/d clean up with alcohol and then use Inox no melt high temp grease on the brass rivets . only use the smallest amount thou! i would install new sleeves also while you are at it. ps inox from JCar And i forgot you had lots of time to strip everything but be careful you dont start bending switches as they are fragile. and i do know a EM repairer #@#
I bought some special stuff from PBR to lube her up! && I hope to be a good EM repairer! I will bend your ear more when I get closer to plugging it in.
You better till GIBO there is some more pics of just the coin door ( not there anymore ) %.%
-
Yep that's what to do.
Could you put up some close up pics of the not so good parts of the playfield?
yeah, she ain't that pretty close up, been around the block a few times, whore %.% time for some surgery me thinks
whoever hates MYLAR should have a good hard look at this as it really has preserved the play field very well. Got the excess glue and crap off with citrus oil - OOMPF !
-
this game was proudly brought to you by
@@*
-
Looking good Andy ^^^ I am amazed by your dedication to this project, not too much longer and she be playable . Will you re-do the mylar or go for waxing? And i do have some metal bushings from a old Gottlieb cab that may fit for the flippers that you are chasing. And way to go on the PVA glue and clamping and wipe a little around the edge of playfield to seal any delaminating plywood
-
Little bit slow of late as the beach has been calling :D
just cleaned the 2 x 10 drop target banks - what a firkin mission,
OH YEAH if any one wants to donate old springs and old fish paper, contact leafs, old switches etc.etc please do! thanks in advance. I will pay for the postage-couple are broken
Have a look inside these little beauties.STOP using bloody oil in you EM's. ha ha
The drop targets them selves came up really good for 40+ years old and will re-use as NEW ones are bloody $$$ , shots taken are before clean and after
-
little bit of work cleaning the underneath of play field and also the top
underneath was just mild grit sandpaper and automotive clear coat ( for a bit of protection )
on top was first proper clean with shell lite and magic eraser and ready for paint fix ups and repair mylar sections.
WILL NOT clear coat, just a bloody good wax
My research suggests mylar fix and wax as too damaging and risky for an old machine.
-
As I said in the previous post I wouldn't remove the mylar, well guess what? I did :lol &^&
Tried 2 methods and one worked very well being a heat gun on low heat and peel back- SLOWLY, then remove residue with orange oil ( oompf )
The other well, @.@ sucked ! I used the freeze spray method and apart from being $$ for the spray it pulled up bits of paint - so looks like I am learning how to paint a play filed now!
I must say though that BUNNINGS was helpful as I took the play field in to match paints and had two chicks looking after me and offering great advise as I had no idea.
Well I just finished sanding back the top surface and ball shooter lane so it looks pretty and helps the paint to adhere ( fingers crossed ) I hope to do some more pictures very soon.
So much for touch ups, looks like it will be completely re-done - god I love this hobby %$%
This project will never leave my line up as apart from being my first pinball machine and also first restoration. It is also my learning machine and is not up to the standards of the other people who do these beautiful resto's .
As long as it plays like a demon when finished I will be stoked off my head.
-
The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.
..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint
-
Sorry to hear its gone a bit pear shaped .
PErhaps a good argument for not removing mylar unless absolutely necessary .
Judging from the pics you had posted of your PF I am surprised to hear you felt the need to remove the mylar.
Best of luck with the repaint and please post some before and after pics *%*
-
The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.
..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint
Unfortunately got this off the PINREPAIR website and I believe the freeze works better on newer games, not these old girls.
It is all good though as I love a challenge and am learning heaps and I really like the feedback. ^^^
" Give a man a fish and he eats for a day - teach a man to fish and he eats for a lifetime"
-
The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.
..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint
Freeze spray method is brilliant for factory MYLAR. I've used it plenty of times for DMD titles. Freeze spray method is absolutely hopeless for CONTACT adhesive - which was a non factory pre mylar solution. I've never seen mylar on an EM. So an EM will always have old contact (unless restorers like Mitch restore and install Mylar), that needs to be removed with the hair dryer method.
-
The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.
..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint
Freeze spray method is brilliant for factory MYLAR. I've used it plenty of times for DMD titles. Freeze spray method is absolutely hopeless for CONTACT adhesive - which was a non factory pre mylar solution. I've never seen mylar on an EM. So an EM will always have old contact (unless restorers like Mitch restore and install Mylar), that needs to be removed with the hair dryer method.
This is very handy info to know for anyone else who may want to have a crack at protective removal.
-
The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.
..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint
Freeze spray method is brilliant for factory MYLAR. I've used it plenty of times for DMD titles. Freeze spray method is absolutely hopeless for CONTACT adhesive - which was a non factory pre mylar solution. I've never seen mylar on an EM. So an EM will always have old contact (unless restorers like Mitch restore and install Mylar), that needs to be removed with the hair dryer method.
This is very handy info to know for anyone else who may want to have a crack at protective removal.
I wouldnt go anywhere near this method or the hair dryer for that matter.
Heat softens paint.. use at your peril
-
Here is an update of where I am at as of 20/3/2013.
Have sanded back all the flipper wear, the ball chute and ball arch to the best it will get ( for now any way )
Started painting the play field with acrylics and found this to be very relaxing and therapeutic ( fully recommend giving it a go ) PINPRICK gave me the confidence to give it a whirl.
My christmas wish list is a airbrush/spray paint kit as brushing by hand SUCKS @.@
Although it is not the greatest of finishes I am very happy to this point. I still have the reds to touch up and apply the fine black boarders with an oil based marker pen ( correct me if I am wrong )
Some minor bits have to be attended to so like the rays of white/blue heading to the GOTTLIEB sign in the front centre.
Then a nice clear coat mmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Also had some FANTASTIC news last night with Lee from Pinball Rescue confirming my NEW plastic set are nearly here $#$
It is coming together nicely and hope to be finished this year ha ha %.%
-
That looks good. From the playfield I tried to repair all I can say is don't fret over the little things you cannot fix. Do what you can and when the playfield is back together it will look fine (unless you do something silly). I found when doing mine I fretted over parts of it but eventually got over it and had to get it back together to play it as it took me 12 months overall.
-
Femto is right, I can't be anal on my first resto so here it is before the final 2 pac or however I choose to finish, It is locked in with a clear matte spray so it should be OK to do whatever I need to do.
There is a lot of lessons learned by doing a complete play field paint like - don't do it again :lol
Also a picture to remind me of what is what like initially, so I can't sook too much. Heaps of little mistakes but when it is populated it should be fine, me hopes?
-
Mini update, play field has been clear coated with KBS Diamond Clear, this was a little bit of drama as it gassed up and stuffed the gloss finish. Probably a good thing as I had to rub it back and give it more of an original look MATTE. Also hides a few little hiccups %$%
NEW plastics arrive thanks to Lee Pinball Rescue ^^^ look awesome and extremely professional.
Time to start re-building ^&^
-
Mini update, play field has been clear coated with KBS Diamond Clear, this was a little bit of drama as it gassed up and stuffed the gloss finish. Probably a good thing as I had to rub it back and give it more of an original look MATTE. Also hides a few little hiccups %$%
NEW plastics arrive thanks to Lee Pinball Rescue ^^^ look awesome and extremely professional.
Time to start re-building ^&^
KBS gassed up?? Can you explain this a bit.. ive used this product many times and found it to be pretty fautless.
-
No worries Retro, I had to roll it on with a finishing roller and I think it was going off too quick so it created tiny bubbles that could not escape before curing ( moisture cured ). It was perfect temp for application so can only assume it needed to be thinned out a little bit more rather than straight out of the can.
When the next one comes around I will either spray( when I get a spray kit ) it or thin it out a bit as mentioned above so it also self levels better.
No big deal as that is why I am doing this resto for the learning curve . Am still really stoked with the results though
-
No worries Retro, I had to roll it on with a finishing roller and I think it was going off too quick so it created tiny bubbles that could not escape before curing ( moisture cured ). It was perfect temp for application so can only assume it needed to be thinned out a little bit more rather than straight out of the can.
When the next one comes around I will either spray( when I get a spray kit ) it or thin it out a bit as mentioned above so it also self levels better.
No big deal as that is why I am doing this resto for the learning curve . Am still really stoked with the results though
Aaah.. Yes a roller will trap air into it and if the clear is even slightly too thick the bubbles wont escape.. a quick rub back and another coat should fix it though.
Spray or even paint brush works well with KBS.. have tried both very succesfully
-
Next time maybe, I must admit I do prefer the MATTE finish though as gloss was looking too artificial on this old girl ( for me any way )
Thanks for the feed back ^^^ and I am definitely still going to do another game with this product although at least SS/DMD era.
I won't re paint a WHOLE play field ever again if I can help it though - pffffftt !
-
Just put it back together already, I want to play this thing. @@*
-
Did you manage to eradicate the air bubbles by blocking back?
Have you given it a final coating yet?
I would have gone for a clear satin finish myself *%*
How about this for your next project? (see pic)
-
you will have to wait and see as I started the electrical this arvo and having a MASSIVE win! Should look good under glass &^&
YEAh that a nice guitar
-
That's looking good Andy. It will look great when populated, cant wait to play it ^^^
-
That's looking good Andy. It will look great when populated, cant wait to play it ^^^
Cheers Big Ears.
Been busy today and started getting majority of bits on the old ride.
Starting to look like a pinball now - phew! &&
There is still a lot of tweaking to do yet, but have rebuilt the flippers, bumpers, sling shots, top ball eject, replaced coils and springs and put on new repro bits when I could. Lots of leaf contacts to adjust and some sticky issues with the right 10 bank drop target. We WILL get there though.
The plastics from Pinball Rescue look shit hot ( I think ) Cheers Lee, they fit %.%
-
Plugged the old girl in and guess what. Didn't blow up ? ^%^
I must admit I did give her a quick test before energising.
Quite a few hiccups that all appear to be originating from a dodgy free play hack. We shall see *!@
-
Nice job Andy will have to come around and have a look. This is the standard of restoration I would like to achieve on the Top Card that I'm currently doing.
-
Nice job Andy will have to come around and have a look. This is the standard of restoration I would like to achieve on the Top Card that I'm currently doing.
Cheers mate
If I can help in anyway I will be more than happy to. Pop in whenever dude, thanks for the kind words ^^^
-
After being on the back burner for a while, finally started this old girl again and after many hours of frustration and head fxxks. I asked for help. Ralph( em guru )and Anthony( another EM noob ) answered my frantic call as the Perth Pinball Collectors and Restorers meet is on at my place on the 24th August. Well it is finally playable just need to tickle up the score reels and, motor brake and final adjustments. My inspiration is that my SC is nearly here! happy days.
Classic 2 inch flipper game. Let's hope I can finish it for all who attend to enjoy.
-
I hope you get her going soon. I've enjoyed reading your posts.
-
After being on the back burner for a while, finally started this old girl again and after many hours of frustration and head fxxks. I asked for help. Ralph( em guru )and Anthony( another EM noob ) answered my frantic call as the Perth Pinball Collectors and Restorers meet is on at my place on the 24th August. Well it is finally playable just need to tickle up the score reels and, motor brake and final adjustments. My inspiration is that my SC is nearly here! happy days.
Classic 2 inch flipper game. Let's hope I can finish it for all who attend to enjoy.
Make sure you post pictures of the completed game and the meet. Hopefully the Surf Champ will arrive in time.