ok finished the gaurds after cutting it and widening it, realigning the stuff ups the first owner did, I rectified the horrid lines from what ever mold this came out of. most of the time guards are widened from the outside edge, however if you do that your side running boards wont line up with the wider gaurds if you widen from the outside edge, i have learnt a trick to widen from the inside edge that goes to the body which ment i could do only one cut and fix the bad joining lines, this still allows the runner boards and guards to line up on the outside edge, this may not make sense as you think widening the inside would still push the edge out, which is correct, but there is a trick that is very hard to explain, lol. any ways its now an extra inch wider on the guards. seeing the diff is shortened and wide drag tyres are being installed, the inside wheel arch that is in your boot, needed to be tubbed, so i removed that area and have widened by another 4 inches, so you would consider this a mini tubb. the previous owner had a horrible dicky seat setup and thought it would be a good idea to fully cutoff the bottom drain lip in the boot for a reverse hinge lid lol, so it had no structure and no way to catch water so i needed to completely straighten the entire bottom edge and add construct a completely new lip to catch water and actually seal the boot. i still need to do allot of work to the back end from the un straight molding, this is often the problem with hotrods they are built by amatures, and its amazing how dodgy hotrods can be, when taking on a previously owned hotrodd be prepaired to do allot of work to rebuilt them. lol, ive seen hundreds like this over the years, but this also allows you to buy a bargain and cheaper than buying a kit.
the deal is it also this car now needs to be bloody strong as this is a serious drag car, ill post more pics up as i get there, will be doing allot more work on the arse end for the wheelie bars, and para-shoot.
heres a few pictures,
