I think it is a natural progression for your pins. From what I've seen of your work, they will compliment your standards. I'm a traditionalist, but I was converted by Greg. The first pin I did was ToM, and the results were stunning, although I've learnt that you need to take each machine on a "case by case" basis. Some lend well to LEDs and some don't. Ghosting is an issue with super bright LEDs, but you can tone down to 180 standard and still get the effect with less noticeable ghosting.

Experimentation is the key. That's why I don't buy kits, as that's someone else's design that might not be appropriate to my tastes. I use a combination of 90 and 180 degree LEDs - depending on the inserts.

1. Do I need to colour coordinate to match the insert for best effect (purple insert with purple LED) or can a plain white be put under the purple insert and look just as effective?

I use the color of the insert as a guide. Purple against purple. Best thing to do is test that insert with a cool white and see if you prefer that ?

2. Flat Top/Concave/Frosted lenses - does it matter? and any preference of one over the other?

Preference is personal. Try a 180 degree, a 90 degree and a super bright. I've not tried frosted. This is where experimentation is the key. Whether the machine "ghosts" the LEDs is another issue all together.

3. LED's for the backbox - plain white or colour coordinated to match the translite artwork?

This is where I spend a lot of time. I use 180 degree only, otherwise it is too overbearing. Co ordinate the LED with the colour that the light is behind. Cool whites where there is too much color. A lot of fiddling here !

4. LED's for the GI - yes or no?

Yes. At least Cool White 180 degrees. You can co ordinate with the surrounding plastics. I did this with T3 and it looked stunning.

5. Will the Ablaze 1 LED versions be sufficient for most under playfield inserts or do I have to step up to the Ablaze 4, 5 or 9's. Is it overkill? (Bright is good for the wow factor, but the machine still needs to be playable without a welding mask).

Depends on the game, the size of the Insert and whether ghosting will be an issue. I tried Super Brights on T3 inserts, and it ghosted to the point of being unplayable. Have 90 / 180 / super brights in stock and experiment. It is your game, so it needs to suit your tastes.


I would STRONGLY advise that you keep away from the crappy eBay LEDs sold on the local Aussie market. I've seen these fall out of games and I've had a few games with strange problems - especially older games with #89 LEDs. I buy ONLY from RTBB, but the other quality LEDs from cointaker etc are just as good.