DSB. AC input voltages don’t vary much, just 0.5 – 1 VAC. This is what is starting to make me go insane.
I know Andrew (Beaky) is always more than helpful on this forum, but I don’t want to impose a PM on him, just because he provided me a service repairing my system/driver boards. (That’s just my way thinking). I put the question out there, because others may have had a similar problem.
After many hours tracing wires/schematic, I have now 100% confirmed that the 6.3VAC tap (Playfield/ Back box GI) when either fuse is installed, affects/increases my rectified DC (solenoids mainly) outputs, this transformer also outputs the 25VAC to rectifiers. Makes absolutely no sense to me.
At this point, I can only assume I have a defective transformer, or maybe others with this USA/series wired setup, have not noticed that the DC solenoid outputs are higher than required. I’m not dreaming/ghost chasing RMS readings; I really am getting permanent 60VDC to 38VDC solenoids, because it’s smashing the ball around with GI the running, perfect without GI fuses.
If I put my meter inline on each GI fuse clip on Amps, I get around 2A (x 20 #47 bulbs), which should be OK for a 7A rated circuit?
I borrowed
a set of 240V transformers from a ‘Haunted House’ and with these installed everything is perfect, so I’m tending to lean towards (boots)
original reply about 240V transformers.
If anyone has a spare set of working B-19500 – C19544 transformers for sale, please PM me.
I come from an automotive background, so fully understand about bad DC earthing, but still can’t get my head around how this single 6.3VAC tap/circuit can cause havoc on the rest of the machines DC’s rectified side. All my machine earthing is correct, including transformers.
If I can’t source a set of 240V transformers, would I be able to source a high Amp 6.3VAC transformer, taking a 240VAC feed off the AC input and run the GI off that to get me running?
Or, and please don’t shoot me down for hacking, tap into the controlled playfield 6VDC line for controlled lamps, rated a 7.5A using LED’s instead. Just posing a theory.
Hope this frustrating post makes some sort of sense.
Cheers, Paul.
