Author Topic: KBS Diamond Clear Coat Preparation & Application  (Read 10895 times)

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Offline Retropin

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Re: KBS Diamond Clear Coat Preparation & Application
« on: May 10, 2015, 12:16:04 AM »
I use nothing but KBS.. have been for a few years now. I can guarantee  that it doesn't react with acrylic, enamel or acrylic lacquer and this is why I use it every time.
acrylic lacquer is good for spraying.. enamel ( humbrol) is good for fine line hand work for the black lines and acrylic is good for insert black line spraying.. put all 3 on a PF and you have problems sealing with a 2 pac unless you use KBS.. sets like diamond coat and is self levelling.
BUT!!!!! make sure the PF is dead level before you spray, brush etc as it will roll to one side otherwise.
Also - it does take a full 7 days to fully cure.. no polishing for at least a week.. make it 2 and you are home and dry.. then again, in all honesty, a 2 pac or a monokan finish also takes the same amount of time to fully cure.. so nothing lost there.
This stuff is FOOL PROOF unless you are a complete numpty.
It will however react with the glue on decals and so if the first spray is not done very lightly then you will get a ripple on the edges of the decal.
Couple of options here..

Do it properly and not use decals..... best option there is.
Spray light and hope that its not too heavy to react with the glue... minor gamble that could well bite in the arse.
go what the hell and spray.. then sand out the rippled edges.. does work so long as you can go heavy with top coat.
My recommendation is to NOT use any decals ( oh I friggin hate them) and build your skill set up by learning some basic airbrush work.. its is a hell of a lot easier than you can ever imagine!
Too hard baskets will give you decals.... a self belief basket will give you a whole new skill set and better results