Could I put the TW MDB in and see if that helps?
Peter 
I'd advise others who may be reading this thread to use some caution when swapping WMS display bits around like this between machines - not all have all the 100V supplies fed to the actual displays - in Peters' picture you can see the single brown wire in a connector that is angled off at about 11 o'clock sort of behind the leftmost top (P3) connector. On machines that have it, this wire is fed into the harness that connects to the player displays. I have a set of WMS displays that do not have this feed. I'm not sure of the effect of putting one of these displays onto a master board with the extra feed? Does anybody have knowledge on this? There is also a comment on the board layout drawing mentioned above about this extra fed, but it's a bit cryptic to me.
Excellent advise - and something to remember.
I have the advantage of being the previous owner of the Time Warp - and I know both MDB are the same. So I knew it was safe to swap them over - but the point remains the same - check the revisions of the MDB and the wiring of the cabinet.
My bet is that, since soon as you plug P2 display in it stops the segments on the master display working.. have i got that right?? The fault will be the P2 display glass itsself. had the exact same problem with my Stellar Wars when i brought it home. went thru all the mucking around changing the 10k resistors only to find them burning again, then discovered pulling the connectors to the P1 and P2 displays all the segments came on, on the MDB. i had to replace TWO glasses, as the were both crook, burning different resistors and stopping different segments from coming on. Somehow the glasses were pulling the segment line down, burning up th resistors and causing segments to go out on the MDB. Replace the P2 display..
sounds like your lucky to only have to replace one display,, unlike me, was an expensive exercise!!
I agree - Played 2 display is the culprit. A simple test would be to swap the current (assumed faulty) P2 display with a P3 or P4 display. This will confirm the display is the issue. I would then permanently remove that display until it is repaired or replaced.
It might have dry joints on the board.
