WELL GUYS... THE WORK HAS BEGUN!!

As i mentioned before, i moved KISS into the spare room so i could work on it at night, Quick draw has been put aside for the time being (thinking of selling it as i've kinda lost interest in it.. for now at least)

Anyway back to KISS... started work on getting it up and running properly yesterday evening, 1st couple of pics show the boards. In the 2nd pic you can see the hacked power supply board, with the connectors cut and having been hard wired.. and a bridge rectifier mounted off the board with wires...typical of most of these games of this vintage

Power supply hasnt been done yet, all ive done with it so far was to wire a new connector housing for the wires i had to cut in order to remove the backbox to get the game into the car. At this time im only doing enough to get the game to work.. i'll rebuild/repair boards etc as i go through them all one at at time once the game is running.

2nd pic was taken after unloading it out of the car. the power supply was working when i picked the game up so i havent done anything else to it just yet, but it'll be rebuilt later.

today i removed the displays, solenoid driver and lamp driver from the game for inspection and repair/mods as needed. For the displays, first i resoldered the obviously cracked header pins, then plugged each one into my test rig.. i only had to replace the six 100k resistors to get them all working!!, though a couple of them have burn spots in some of the segments, the glasses will be replaced later on.

Now the lamps also were doing some strange things in the game, so the lamp driver was tested in the test rig next. Several lamps were staying on in the game, and others were coming on at the wrong times! In the test rig, about half of the test LEDs driven by U3, were staying on, and this was affecting the other decoder ICs as well. Replacing U3 fixed all of the problems in one hit!! I fitted a IC socket for the new IC. 3rd and 4th pics show the lamp driver being tested.

The only work needed on the solenoid driver board was to replace the header pins, and the usual upgrades from Clays repair guides. The high voltage section had been repaired at some stage, with different transistors, but it was working fine so i'll leave it for now. Also the big cap for the 5 volt had been changed at some stage, and looks fairly new, but i might change it anyway now the game is running.