I get all my pf's cleared and never had a problem, to the point now that
when I buy my own personal pf's they go straight to either Bill Davis or Chris @highendpins
if there 2nd hand playfields they get touched up and cleared,
and if l score a NOS playfield they still go and get Cleared
(those NOS Sega and late model Gottlieb playfields are eye popping when they get a Wms style clear applied to them)
while I must say that I have been warned that "milking" can occur at the inserts
this has yet to happen to any playfields that I have had done , I would probably be reluctant
to cc a older game but as far as (very) late 80's and up to 1999 yes I would always clear coat
if your interested in trying clearcoating your self Marty then l have a NOS AlvinG world tour pf
that l would be happy to give you if you want to try on that?
I'm fairly sure I've read about Bill DAVIS and his clearcoating...He's in the USA?
The initial plan was to clear - 1st preference to my spray painter or me under his supervision...He's allowed me to spray inside car doors and inside boots before (but not clear!)..
I guess - as mentioned previously if it goes wrong - then I will be parting out a good machine
....I guess for me - having to put an insert decal set on is the main issue. I think if the old decals were still good and under the diamond coat - I would not hesitate to get it done. THe main thing with the horror stories is lifting / milking around decals (with inserts!)....The other reading I've done is that people have suggested a minimum wait of 90 days before tightening posts or heavy use?
Once my decals arrive from classic-arcades I will see then. Hopefully the art on the lower decals is there, and this will improve it 100% anyway (along with new parts from RTBB of course) (along with all the LEDs from RTBB of course!!).
I must say, after 4 hits with novus 2 and a buffer, I'm very happy with the improvements...I'm not planning on doing this a third time...
I guess its just a risk assessment..
BTW - thank you for the offer re the NOS playfield. I could NEVER experiment with any NOS playfield. If it went bad - someone out there would cry...There would be a collector wanting one somewhere!
--? You havn't got any T2's NOS pf's tucked away by any chance?
I picked up a 8-ball pf which was kangaroo bills brother a while ago from Mark...Another mate was having a play at airbrushing to repair artwork for something to do...I was planning on clearcoating it for practise, but timing has not worked...
Ok so if you mylar, how do you prevent air bubbles? If its anything like using contact on a schoolbook then im screwed. Also ive read about "fish eyes" on the clear coat. What is that (air bubbles?) and how do i avoid it? Oh and the TOP videos talk about varithane ... seems easy to use from a can? any reason why you wouldnt use that
Cheers!
Yep, 1st time around with this I had 3 bubbles. Basically I used the old school book method, (with still some minor playfield furniture on - as I cut template) - which actually made it harder. So- the method Retopin is talking about is 100% spot on. I used this (only a small square) on a section on LAH which went down perfect....This will be the method I use - if nothing changes.. Varithane - I've got NFI about that. I know auto clear is very strong and most suited for playfield applications...- I used to think a flipper rebuild was a big job...! A full CC on a pf is well out of my league..
