Author Topic: Bally 1965 Aces High Restoration  (Read 13242 times)

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Offline Strangeways

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Re: Bally 1965 Aces High Restoration
« Reply #45 on: December 30, 2010, 11:31:49 PM »

This restore took the back seat as I completed the garage. now that I've finished that task, I'm back to restoring this game. This next step is often considered "boring" and can be somewhat difficult. The SIDE RAILS ! These must be removed, regrained and new nails be installed. These Ballys have a metal playfield glass channel - not plastic - and they become rusted. The telltale sign is a "grinding" noise when removing the glass and scratches on the glass edges. There's no way around it - the side rails must come off and the channel needs to be treated.

Siderail removal

Not that hard when you think about it. This is the method I've used (on and off) for years. The aim is to remove the nail intact AND more importantly - NOT scratch the siderail.

The first thing to do is place packing tape directly on the siderail, covering the nail head. Place a second piece of tape over the top and cut out the head with a sharp knife.





Use an OLD or cheap chisel to pry the head of the nail - go around the diameter of the nail head and you may need to go around a few times to dislodge the nail and raise it slightly.





View from above - the head is raised





I use an old pair of sidecutters for the next step. Place the sidecutters behind the head, and squeeze while turning counter clockwise. The tape will form a barrier between the siderail and the sidecutters. You MAY scratch the siderail while doing this - try not to - and use more tape if required. The head will raise with the counter clockwise movement.





At this stage, the head is well and truly raised, and the only scratching is on the tape.





Now I use a pair of pliers. Simply place the pliers over the head, but NOT pressing against the siderail, and turn counter clockwise. It should turn and raise. DON'T PULL THE NAIL OUT ! TURN IT ! It will come out easy. If you rip out the nail, then there will be no wood for the new nail to "grab". Side rail nails are NOT standard nails - they have a thread, much like a screw. Pulling them out is simply not the right way to do it.





ZERO damage to the siderail and a clean removal of the nail





Side rail is not removed and you can see the rusted channel. This rust scratches the playfield glass. It needs to be addressed.





Out comes the Dremel with the correct bit to remove the rust. I covered the inside of the machine and spend some time removing the rust from the channel. I finished off the removal by treating it with Ranex and then a red scotchbrite pad. It is very smooth and ready for the siderail to be re installed.





A progress picture of the rust removal and the results. To the right, is the completed section.





The left side of the machine is completed and ready for the siderail.





Why do I regrain the siderails and not "polish" them ? Because they are NOT polished from factory. They are GRAINED. I remove the siderails and REGRAIN them. This is easy - Lay the siderail on a flat surface, grab some 180 Grit wet/Dry and windex (don't use the cheap window cleaner) and use a block of wood with the 180 Grit and slide back and forth in a straight line. Do this several times and then clean with windex and a rag. It will remove most scratches and the machine looks "Factory".


Here's the right side regrained with new siderails ;





When fitting the new nails, use PVC wood glue and toothpicks to fill the hole and gently tap the nails in. Place a block BEHIND the nail (inside of the cabinet) when hammerring the nail.


That's it ! Next update will be the legs / door / lock down bar assembly - stay tuned !

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