Author Topic: kings and queens  (Read 3730 times)

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mark jackson

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Re: kings and queens
« Reply #45 on: January 06, 2011, 09:09:32 PM »
Thanks alot for your positive comments. I thought I'd mention the problems I had and what they actually were. I'm thinking of those of you new to fixin' pinballs. ... In reality there were 3 problems I encountered when I plugged in the head I made.
1. The fuse for the backbox just blew out immediately I pressed the replay button or coin switch contact. Whenever I find this problem, I take it that the machine is trying to tell me something. .... It doesn't like something a real lot, otherewise it wouldn't blow fuses right off. So, I went looking for the cause. It could have been that I wired something wrong, but I didn't think so. Whenever you use solder there is always the chance that some of it 'spills' onto a part it shouldn't. ... and of all the places to look I felt like the soldering of the wires to the lights of the screreels was the most likely place that I would have messed it up. I say this because this was the place where it was hard to manouver. When I looked I saw that some solder was touching the body of the light socket. I bent the connection point away from the light socket body (3 mm approx).... Then I hit the replay button again, and the machine lit up.
2. The unit score reel didn't change the tens reel once it went past 9. To my knowledge this is always because the contact points in the units score reel which is supposed to make contact at '9' wasn't doing this. To adjust this easily on a 60's machine I always take off the actual score-reel from the unit. Then it's easy to see and adjust the contact points so they close on '9'.  .... Problem solved.
3. The thousand light was not coming on. I gave the female socket for this wire a slight squeeze with the pliers. It then worked for a game or two, but then it didn't. This sent me straight away to the soldering iron and I resoldered where the wire joins to the female socket. When ever the connection or contact point is intermittent, it always pays to resolder that particular place. Most 'dry' solder joins look  ok, but it only takes a minute or two to resolder a connection or contact point. It fixed this last problem and the head has been raging since I fixed those small problems.

I hope this rave is useful to those who have not done much of this type of repair work. All 3 of the problems I had are typical and their solution was also typical for that problem. Cheers, Mark