home made Pinball LEDs?

[Extra Ball]

These could be used to make pinball LEDs?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Lot-of-100-X-5mm-Blue-LED-10000-mcd-Free-Resistors_W0QQitemZ370274431880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5636137388

These the go AJ?

[ajlaird]

Yes, just depends how you want to mount them - you could probably solder the resistor on to one of the LED legs, and then bend to shape to fit in a bulb holder.

GI is 12V, isn't it?

[pinmadd]

6 volts

[Extra Ball]

Yes, just depends how you want to mount them - you could probably solder the resistor on to one of the LED legs, and then bend to shape to fit in a bulb holder.

GI is 12V, isn't it?

This is what I want to know. How is the resistor soldered-in, and from where to where? So solder from one leg, then to....? Or just mount the resistor on one leg?

[Homepin]

Solder a resistor on either leg (doesn't matter) - LEDs are polarity sensitive - that is, they won't light if you apply the voltage the wrong way around - no damage will result is connected incorectly, just no light! Then connect the remaining LED leg and the OTHER end of the resistor to your power source putting the resistor in series with the LED (the resistor limits the current that can flow through the LED and stops it from drawing too much current and melting).

I would suggest 220 ohm 1/4 watt for 6.3V and 1.2k ohm for 12V.

[ajlaird]

So if GI is 6V then you would ask for the resistors to suit.

Given that these are Blue LEDs (and having read AskJacob's response in the eaelier thread), you may need to consider a diode as well if using in GI which is AC.

[Extra Ball]

Solder a resistor on either leg (doesn't matter) - LEDs are polarity sensitive - that is, they won't light if you apply the voltage the wrong way around - no damage will result is connected incorectly, just no light! Then connect the remaining LED leg and the OTHER end of the resistor to your power source putting the resistor in series with the LED (the resistor limits the current that can flow through the LED and stops it from drawing too much current and melting).

I would suggest 220 ohm 1/4 watt for 6.3V and 1.2k ohm for 12V.

Thanks mate, the picture explained it best  If I was to add a diode, where would it go?
Cheers

[Homepin]

There is no need to add a diode as an LED is ALREADY a diode (Light Emitting Diode). If using on an AC supply (such as some older games - EM etc) the brightness may be slightly reduced but probably not by much. In the case of AC it does not matter which way around you mount the LED as it will work either way.

The most important thing is to use trhe correct value resistor to suit the voltage you are running at. 220ohm for 6V and 1.2K ohm for 12V that way you won't frizzle the LEDs.

[Extra Ball]

There is no need to add a diode as an LED is ALREADY a diode (Light Emitting Diode). If using on an AC supply (such as some older games - EM etc) the brightness may be slightly reduced but probably not by much. In the case of AC it does not matter which way around you mount the LED as it will work either way.

The most important thing is to use trhe correct value resistor to suit the voltage you are running at. 220ohm for 6V and 1.2K ohm for 12V that way you won't frizzle the LEDs.

On another auction they are offering: free resistors for 5V / 7.2V / 9V / 13.2V, which will be wrong for GI on a pinball?

[Homepin]

Basically you could go with the 5V option as it is very close to 6.3V (most pins GI voltage).

The resistor will very likely be a 220 ohm or close to it - it should be marked with coloured bands that read from the closest end, red red brown and then another colour that is the tolerance and can be ignored for this application.

Any resistance from about 150 to 470 could be used for 6.3V. Slightly lower in "ohms value" will allow the LED to draw more current = brighter BUT with possibly reduced life, higher value = less current so not as bright but extended life.

For 5V (in this case 6.3) I always use 220 ohms and have never had a failure yet.

[Extra Ball]

thanks for that