Author Topic: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method  (Read 464 times)

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Offline Steve2010

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Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« on: March 20, 2013, 09:58:21 AM »
For those who may get involved with mylar removal, here's an interesting post (which references a video) from RGP on an alternative method to remove the adhesive left behind after a mylar removal - use of alcohol and flour.

http://rgparchive.com/rgpforum/showthread.php?t=471671

Offline pinnies4me

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2013, 11:28:44 AM »


I tried this with a couple of different solvents - seems to work - but very messy!! Still got to be careful as artwork can dissolve sometimes.
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Offline pinball god

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2013, 01:29:04 PM »
tried it on my funhouse and worked well, the flour bit, not goo gone
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Offline pinoffski

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2013, 07:48:04 PM »
Was looking at removing the Mylar from my Taxi .
Was informed to be extra careful being a newbie.

So many people doing restorations just unsure on what method to use..

 

Offline Sgtmax

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2013, 07:58:03 PM »
Orange off is the best.. Removes the goo so easily and quickly and leaves a good hint of citrus after!

Offline pinball god

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2013, 08:09:51 PM »
Not an expert but because Taxi doesn't have a clear coat like T2 era games, I would use the chemical approach. Lift a piece of Mylar via a blade and grip it and maintain firm, even tension on it. Then squirt white spirits the Mylar and playfield meet and let it weaken/dissolve the glue. The Mylar will eventually release due to the tension. I found this method provided minimal to no paint lifting.

Do not use the freeze method at all. Heat is another option but the above I believe will give the best results.
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Offline Retropin

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2013, 09:01:35 PM »
Not an expert but because Taxi doesn't have a clear coat like T2 era games, I would use the chemical approach. Lift a piece of Mylar via a blade and grip it and maintain firm, even tension on it. Then squirt white spirits the Mylar and playfield meet and let it weaken/dissolve the glue. The Mylar will eventually release due to the tension. I found this method provided minimal to no paint lifting.

Do not use the freeze method at all. Heat is another option but the above I believe will give the best results.

Absolutely... ONLY method to remove Mylar that doesnt pull on the paint underneath. Done with patience you will lose ZERO paint

Offline pinoffski

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2013, 09:13:57 PM »
Thanks for expert advice ..

Looks like the taxi i have looked like it had mylar put over pin after as there is insert ware as it is also over sling shots mylar.

The game plays really nice ...

Just was going to clear cote it and put new insert decals .

Offline skywalker

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2013, 11:43:09 AM »
sorry to drag this thread back, was using the freeze method don't think its working very well, having better luck using oomph glue & stain remover, will try some white spirits as stated above,  ^&^

Offline Strangeways

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2013, 07:52:30 PM »
sorry to drag this thread back, was using the freeze method don't think its working very well, having better luck using oomph glue & stain remover, will try some white spirits as stated above,  ^&^

Most likely not mylar. Could be "contact" which will come off easy using the hair dryer method.
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Offline Retropin

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2013, 08:08:01 PM »
Just because Clay wrote something doesn't make it right.... the freeze method really is a terrible way to try and remove Mylar.. hairdryer isn't much better.. its possible to overheat and melt the paint work.
Why anyone would risk the artwork is beyond me

Offline Strangeways

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2013, 10:04:37 PM »
Just because Clay wrote something doesn't make it right.... the freeze method really is a terrible way to try and remove Mylar.. hairdryer isn't much better.. its possible to overheat and melt the paint work.
Why anyone would risk the artwork is beyond me

+1

Mylar removal needs to be taken in context. Factory "Mylar" can easily be removed from a DMD era game with ease. I've never lifted a pinhead of artwork using the freeze spray on a DMD game.

Mylar was first installed in early SYS80 games. It would be a bloody miracle to remove mylar from titles such as Haunted House and Spirit. I dread the day I have to do it !

"Contact" was installed prior to 1982. I know, because I was there watching the same stuff placed on school books installed in NIB machines. I watched the contact installed on my Paragon the day it was removed from it's box. THIRTY years later, I removed the contact using minimal heat and not one pinhead of artwork was lifted.

The problem most have with contact removal is that MANY games had contact OR mylar placed on the machine AFTER the game started to show wear. This is where the debate over what method is best. Once the contact is installed, then time decides which is stronger - The primer holding the paint to the wood, or the adhesive on the contact.

If the game already had wear and ball swirl, then NO method will remove mylar successfully.

If the game already had wear and ball swirl, then it is possible to remove contact successfully. This is where the discussion become "personal choice". I would NEVER use the pipette and any liquid "injected" under contact or mylar. This method DESTROYED a perfectly good Bally Star Trek machine. The goof off or goo gone dissolved into the paint making a colorful soup and the next day I had pieces of artwork stripped off the playfield. Never again !

But that's based on personal choice. I take each playfield on it's own merits, and from experience, I can look at a playfield and simply not even attempt the removal using any method.

With the restorers that post videos of their methods - They will only post the "success stories".. You seldom see trashed playfields as no one wants to see that happen !
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Offline skywalker

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #12 on: November 22, 2013, 10:14:43 PM »
Agree Nino, very situation is addressed differently, removed half today with very little damage to PF, it's by means not a perfect PF anyway, see how the rest comes up, All input is appreciated 
« Last Edit: November 22, 2013, 10:17:17 PM by skywalker »

Offline Retropin

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #13 on: November 22, 2013, 10:37:55 PM »
Just because Clay wrote something doesn't make it right.... the freeze method really is a terrible way to try and remove Mylar.. hairdryer isn't much better.. its possible to overheat and melt the paint work.
Why anyone would risk the artwork is beyond me

+1

Mylar removal needs to be taken in context. Factory "Mylar" can easily be removed from a DMD era game with ease. I've never lifted a pinhead of artwork using the freeze spray on a DMD game.

Mylar was first installed in early SYS80 games. It would be a bloody miracle to remove mylar from titles such as Haunted House and Spirit. I dread the day I have to do it !

"Contact" was installed prior to 1982. I know, because I was there watching the same stuff placed on school books installed in NIB machines. I watched the contact installed on my Paragon the day it was removed from it's box. THIRTY years later, I removed the contact using minimal heat and not one pinhead of artwork was lifted.

The problem most have with contact removal is that MANY games had contact OR mylar placed on the machine AFTER the game started to show wear. This is where the debate over what method is best. Once the contact is installed, then time decides which is stronger - The primer holding the paint to the wood, or the adhesive on the contact.

If the game already had wear and ball swirl, then NO method will remove mylar successfully.

If the game already had wear and ball swirl, then it is possible to remove contact successfully. This is where the discussion become "personal choice". I would NEVER use the pipette and any liquid "injected" under contact or mylar. This method DESTROYED a perfectly good Bally Star Trek machine. The goof off or goo gone dissolved into the paint making a colorful soup and the next day I had pieces of artwork stripped off the playfield. Never again !

But that's based on personal choice. I take each playfield on it's own merits, and from experience, I can look at a playfield and simply not even attempt the removal using any method.

With the restorers that post videos of their methods - They will only post the "success stories".. You seldom see trashed playfields as no one wants to see that happen !
If the game already had wear and ball swirl, then NO method will remove mylar successfully.... I completely disagree here...
Choice of fluid is the problem of your Star Trek.. not method. Goof off and Goo Gone are products design to eat pretty much anything that they touch... White Spirit is also dry cleaning fluid and is perfectly safe on your playfield.
When you remove Mylar, the idea is to make the contact between the Mylar and the PF weaker than the paint and timber.. get this wrong and you will lift paint. White Spirit turns the glue into a water like substance for a period of time... mylar slides off like ice on a table at the lightest touch. White Spirit is a little like Turps.. both of which you can put onto dry paint for 100 years without ever affecting it.. difference is that WS renders glue to a tactless solution. It is the safest option out of all methods

Offline pinsanity

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Re: Mylar Adhesive Removal Method
« Reply #14 on: November 22, 2013, 11:56:07 PM »
This:



Don't pull the mylar at all. If there is any resistance stop and wait. Let the De-solv-it do it's job and the mylar will slide right off.