Nino's PLAYBOY PF restore

[Retropin]

This is Nino's Playboy PF being restored and showcased at Expo this year. When i got it - the PF was badly warped from top to bottom. Its taken quite a few weeks to flatten her off - obviously, this was best done before the restore rather than after. This has delayed the start of this for me and so now im up against the clock to finish it off before Expo...is OK - i do have enough time.
At first glance the PF doesnt look that bad - usual wear areas, but the high detail areas are complete



Factory issue on these and most PF's has heavy duty Mylar rings around the bumpers. These have to come off... i absolutely hate doing this bit, i have never yet had these come off without taking at least some of the artwork off with them. This PF is no different - a heat gun is used to soften the glue, but it doesnt stop the artwork from coming up with them



Now this is a real issue for me and has made my job that much harder...you can see here just how much artwork came up with the rings



Only way to replace this is freehand - it will be the very last thing i do before CCing the whole thing...if none of you have heard me say it before im saying it now - I HATE MYLAR!!!!!!!

Ok, first thing to do is give the whole PF a rub back - this is needed to give a rough surface so any paint will stick properly. It also expands any areas of wear and so makes what looked like a simple repair seem much bigger.



Once all the dust is removed, the whole pF is covered with clear vinyl and areas of wear cut out with a scalpel. This gives me a nice template to work with and prevents the primer from getting on non wear areas. Each cut out is sprayed with primer



I actually use a watered down primer for this - i want it to soak into the PF a bit and not just sit on the top surface. I cant help but think that maybe if this had been done at factory then maybe less artwork would be lost when the Mylar rings are removed.
Once sprayed - the vinyl can be removed, some small areas of wear are left - these can be done by hand, its easier than cutting out  small areas.
So now the PF is primed and ready to be restored - each stage is given 24hrs to completely settle and dry.

Heres some pics
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There are a few areas on this PF that are of real concern - the pops are a major headache, plus anywhere there is missing lettering or numbers.

Next update coming soon!! - It has to - ive a deadline im working to!!!!!!

[Strangeways]

Well Gav - It looks 100 X better than it did before you started !

Bit of background on this playfield and a sobering reminder - I used ever precaution possible to remove the mylar from this playfield, and prior to doing so, the playfield was in good condition. The mylar was worn and a little "hazed", but the artwork was intact. I took the plunge by testing an area and it was successful. I made a couple of mistakes by RUSHING the remainder of the removal and then I simply wanted to get it "over and done with'. As you can see - I've paid the price - and know you know WHY I always state that each playfield should be assessed prior to mylar removal.

Thankfully, Gavin has the skills and his work is absolutely brilliant in restoring playfields - So I consider myself very fortunate.

sorry for the loose insets mate - just add that to the tab !

[Ballywannabe]

Gavin - have you tried the freeze spray method on the bumper rings?  Often it does the trick and they 'crack' off leaving the glue and all artwork on the playfield where you want it.

cheers
Ian

[Retropin]

Ive actually got freeze spray here too.
Ive never had any trouble removing Mylar from a whole PF - its just the rings that always stuffs up on me - this one really peeled off badly. Oddly enough - its only really bally and Stern games that ive had bad results with.
Next time i remove the rings ill do both methods - heat and freeze. Would make for an interesting comparison

[Mr Pinbologist]

Oddly enough - its only really bally and Stern games that ive had bad results with.

Same here. i own three Stern machines and one Bally, they are definitely the worst ones for lifting paint on the playfields when removing mylar.

The paint/ink preparation, especially on the old Stern playfields for the artwork must've been pretty bad i reckon. Also they're bad for lifting plywood up with the mylar too... this happened on my Dracula.

Gottlieb playfields seem much better for paint adhesion, i havent had many probs with them removing mylar.

[illawarra_steelers]

Oh yes I like this 

Oh yes I like this very very much 

Now hurry up and finish Nino's so I can send mine to you ya bastard 

[Retropin]

Oh yes I like this 

Oh yes I like this very very much 

Now hurry up and finish Nino's so I can send mine to you ya bastard 

LOL!!! Im flipping from the bank a ball PF and the Playboy Pf - working on 2 at the same time. Ones nearly finished and the other just starting - once Expo is out of the way, i can take on more work.

For those members who have been emailing me about work - apologies...i dont intentionally mean to not reply...just under the pump a bit here.. i tell myself, ill reply later and then something else crops up and so yada yada etc.
 But in all honesty.. i will not be doing anymore work til after Expo...so in other words - i cant start till late May. If thats OK - then by all means email me and we will sort out getting stuff to me for a late May start.


............ Ahhhh is all good - having nothing to do is not a phrase in my vocabulary!@!!!

[illawarra_steelers]

OK - book mine in for late May if that's OK?

Since the post this morning have just returned from Sydney with my new project, still in the back of the dual cab. Will post pix later on during the weekend 

[Strangeways]

Are several coats of primer used to raise the level of the missing paint ?

Do you leave the mask intact to paint the colours, or remove it to level the playfield ?

[v8racefan]

Good work gavin 

How many hours has it taken to get the playfield to this stage?? keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[Retropin]

Has only taken a couple of hours so far - this is the easy bit - the real work comes next

[ddstoys]

Ill be watching this thread with great interest. Keep up the good work

[MartyJ]

Has only taken a couple of hours so far - this is the easy bit - the real work comes next

I'm very interested in watching your work here Gav...Lots great thus far.

Is this the type of repair where you spray a colour, clear the playfield, sand, next colour etc.....??

[illawarra_steelers]

So have you finished Nino's yet? Come on you should know I'm impatient 

Can I send my playfied up tomorrow 

See you at Expo mate, will send after that 

[Retropin]

Has only taken a couple of hours so far - this is the easy bit - the real work comes next

I'm very interested in watching your work here Gav...Lots great thus far.

Is this the type of repair where you spray a colour, clear the playfield, sand, next colour etc.....??

Gee - thats a long winded way to go about it - what if you sand too far?? You lose your previous work.

From this stage the PF will be completely touched up and then once finished CC'd to seal.

Nino - i only do one prime, i find its best to use the actual colour to bring the surface level. This is nigh on completely impossible to do of course - there will always be slight variations - even on an original PF there are variations in the levels of paint. So long as they are slight the CC will bring it to a final level surface. Once you start spraying a complete PF you can give particular areas more attention than others - the whole thing then levels itself off