Author Topic: Which wood filler to use on cabinet restoration?  (Read 17726 times)

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Offline Dluth

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Which wood filler to use on cabinet restoration?
« on: May 22, 2014, 12:09:32 PM »
Hi guys,
Looking to restore my fairly beaten up cabinet and looking for opinions on the best product available locally for (a) filling minor dents and scratches and (b) one fairly major gouge I have on an edge. The Americans seem to prefer Bondo in the main - do we have an equivalent here?
Also, this might seem like a dumb question (I'm an amateur!) but why do we have to paint the cabinet after sanding, when we are just applying decals anyway (I'm doing mine dry).
Cheers.

Offline skywalker

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Offline pinsanity

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For small knocks and bumps - Selleys Knead It epoxy for wood

For big chunks - Turbo Builders Bog


Painting cabinet = provides a good adhesive surface which replicates the white undercoating that Bally Williams used when screenprinting cabinet art directly to the cabinet itself (and hides any woodgrain).
« Last Edit: May 22, 2014, 07:14:52 PM by pinsanity »

Offline Strangeways

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For fine imperfections - Motospray Spot Putty. Expensive, but good for small cracks etc that will be seen under new decals.
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Offline Dluth

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Great, thanks for the tips.

Offline Boots

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For fine imperfections - Motospray Spot Putty. Expensive, but good for small cracks etc that will be seen under new decals.

Yep that's good stuff, it blends out better than bog, bog can leave an edge

Offline Dluth

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How about removing any glue residue once the artwork is stripped? Sand it off, or use an adhesive stripper?

Offline MartyJ

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How about removing any glue residue once the artwork is stripped? Sand it off, or use an adhesive stripper?

Before you start, it all depends on how badly beaten up the cabinet is to start with.  If its water damaged or completely trashed, its worth thinking about full replacement now we have WPC / WPC95 cabinets available locally.

Otherwise, you primarily paint it to get a smooth even surface and to ensure that the wood colour is not visible where the decals join on the edges etc.

You will find once the glue is removed and if you apply decals straight over the top, you will see a wood grain type finish through the decal.

Modern decals are much thinner and not the same as originals.  As its thinner, almost a sticker type finish any bump, scratch, divot will stand out (esp on black decals).

As suggested I use automotive filler for big dents / scratches and a fine filler, prior to high fill primer then paint, then clear.  (High end restoration work).