Author Topic: Bally Star Trek Restore.  (Read 4833 times)

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Offline shansta

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #45 on: July 18, 2009, 11:42:35 AM »
Are you planning on donating it to the Star Trek Hall of Fame?

Insane attention to detail - top job, top class!  @@*
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Offline Pinfan

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #46 on: July 18, 2009, 07:16:49 PM »
So.... i have a older SS machine ready for decals...Boy did i cop a lot of flack about it...

"it should be sprayed like it was in the factory"  was one quote i was adamant to prove wrong !

My only remark to these skeptics was wait until the finished product !

I had no idea on how it would turn out as i had never seen it up close and personal in the past, all i knew was that i wanted to avoid respraying and stencils at all cost ! ( Its not that bad really just tedious !  *%* )

I was going to do it WET method, this is the reason why all the sides that were going to have the decal installed needed a light coat of paint, so the cabinet would not soak up the water.

You can either clear the cab or paint it. As you guys have seen i decided to paint it as i thought it killed two birds with one stone as the corners were already painted and so was the back...

The reason i chose the WET method of decal installation was simply because i had a little time to play with the decal IF a boo boo was made as opposed to no time with the dry method.

My particular decals were cut to size with not much to no over run what so ever, so i had to check and recheck and make sure it was not going to be a mess !

So armed with some hot water in a spray bottle with a hint of washing detergent,an old lint less clean rag and a plastic squeegee i was ready to rock and roll...

I decided to do the headbox first and i spent about 15 minutes aligning the decal on the first side for the first time.

15 mins you say, yes a very LONG time ! Just wanted to be sure.  @.@  :D

The way i installed the decals was to line up the decal as best i could. Once i was happy i clamped it down protecting the artwork at the same time.

Once i was happy with the clamped artwork i peeled about 1/8 of the artwork and cut the backing off, starting from one side, in my case it was from top to bottom. The skinny or narrow part of the artwork is where you should start from. eg the width of the headbox decal is more narrow than the height.

Once i had stuck down that initial 1/8 of the decal i sprayed a fine mist of water onto where the decal was going to be installed.

So slowly pealing the backing off, leaving the decal curved over and hanging over the section which has been completed, and at the same time with my plastic squeegee i was rubbing the decal on. In the meantime all the bubbles where being pushed out as was the water leaving me with an entirely smoothed out, stuck on decal.

Once i had completed another portion of it i would then cut the backing off as the longer it gets the more it gets in the way. I continued with this motion until i completed the installation.

I took my time with this and highly recommend for you to do so if you decide to do it ! It can be a nerve racking task with the cost of replacing the artwork after all...

I hope this makes sense, anyway hopefully the pics will do the talking....

So the headbox gets the decals installed !

« Last Edit: July 19, 2009, 09:26:27 AM by Pinfan »
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Offline ddstoys

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #47 on: July 18, 2009, 07:55:08 PM »
Thats looks so good Marco

Offline Strangeways

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #48 on: July 18, 2009, 07:59:48 PM »

Excellent - Now what's the secret to matching the base color to the Decal color - The Blue is "spot on" !

 ^^^
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Offline Wotto

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #49 on: July 18, 2009, 09:50:48 PM »

Excellent - Now what's the secret to matching the base color to the Decal color - The Blue is "spot on" !

 ^^^

In my experience  - many many many many back and forth re-prints of sample spots until you get it right.
Looking good Marco  *)*
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Offline Pinfan

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #50 on: July 19, 2009, 12:10:11 AM »
As good as it looks in the pic it is actually 1 or 2 shades off...

I actually used the correct Star Trek colour code for the blue and had the colour matched for it. The paint for the border of the head box that is.

I am not fussed at all as its close and the quality is superb !  #@#

But as Wotto mentioned and as i am sure you have done this yourself Nino, MANY MANY MANY trial and error colour matching prints on the same material/vinyl you choose to print on,until your satisfied, and even then it depends where you get it printed from....

IMHO i think it would be almost impossible to colour match spot on for any machine if you were to go the route of decals....A small price to pay for the final product i reckon....

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Offline silverball

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #51 on: July 19, 2009, 09:21:21 AM »
I was one of the guys who quitely thought "Marco is crazy" for going down the decal path on this pin. I now eat my thoughts as this pin looks outstanding decalled. You think the pics look great, in person it looks better.

Offline Pinfan

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #52 on: July 19, 2009, 06:49:28 PM »
Continuing with the same method as the back box i did the cabinet !

All up it took about 1 1/2 hours to complete the cab as i found it allot easier than the headbox. Larger scale maybe, not sure, but was quite content with the outcome.  @@*

No part of the decal was messed up and the operation was a success.

A LOT easier than i initially thought !  $#$
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Offline ddstoys

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #53 on: July 19, 2009, 06:53:10 PM »
Thats looking so good with and with less effort than doing  stencils  ^^^

Offline Pinfan

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #54 on: July 19, 2009, 06:56:05 PM »
More pics to follow !
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Offline Pinfan

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #55 on: July 19, 2009, 06:59:03 PM »
And more pics !
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Offline The pinballist formally known as Dean Morgan

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #56 on: July 19, 2009, 07:09:44 PM »
Marco,

That is looking great mate.  Cant wait to see pics when its all together.  #*#
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Offline Pinfan

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #57 on: July 21, 2009, 09:15:49 PM »
Side rails were re grained and polished and installed with new twist nails.

The plastic trim that holds the glass that sits in the side rails was cleaned in the channel with nifti.. All the gunk was removed and the glass slides in and out like its on rollers...  :D

Legs also installed. New flipper buttons and cabinet switches were also installed...

I use Gottlieb cabinet flipper switches for all my games. They are more robust and seem to last an eternity.

Of course new leg bolts and levelers to spruce it up a little more !!  #@#

***EDIT***

Another thing i forgot to mention is that when i install legs on my older games i use thick weather/bear seal on the back of the legs where they screw onto the cab to lessen the impact or damage to the cab. So instead of using the leg protectors i use the seal instead. Its hidden, its cheap and it works !

Oh yeah ! Notice the freshly sprayed black neck !

« Last Edit: July 21, 2009, 09:32:26 PM by Pinfan »
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Offline Ballywannabe

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #58 on: July 22, 2009, 12:20:33 AM »
Looking good @@*  How about some 3" leg levelers for the rear though - she will play SLOOOOW with the back that low %$%

cheers
Ian

Offline Retropin

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Re: Bally Star Trek Restore.
« Reply #59 on: July 22, 2009, 08:28:26 AM »
It does look VERY nice Marco.


Just a thought though,.... with the decals, i was always worried about the edges on the front. With body contact while playing, the decal will begin to come away from here first.

Maybe next time a machine like this has a decal make over, it might be best to get the print in one long line.

In other words, the whole thing is attached from LHS to front to RHS.

With the machine standing on its back, it wouldnt be too hard to apply. The other beauty of this also is that the artwork could be tweeked so everything on the front and sides lines up perfectly.

Once again... you could get them printed with the laminate over the top... gives extra  mechanical and UV protection

So long as this was applied with the wet method to allow fine adjustment, i see no issues