Random reset on LAH (fixed!)

[MartyJ]

Hi Guys,

Hopefully this will be the last bug I chase...

I have been experiencing some very random resets on my LAH.  Well not really resets but more that the game just finishes, ie GI turns off and goes to match sequence, right in the middle of ball play.  It does not appear to be in any particular point, or ball going into certain switch etc...
I have read through Clay's guide, I've insulated the rear of the sound board (with foam that comes with pc motherboard)..It it was the same flipper, pop bumper, sling etc. I would be looking at the diodes, but as it is so random I don't know.  I dont really what to have to replace all the GI diodes unless necessary...

The next step may be to redo the 5v section of the power supply?  I am a little stumped and any suggestions would be fantastic.

[Strangeways]

Marty - I'd be checking the Fuse Holders on the Power supply. They are notorious from problems like the one you describe.

Check connectors - Which I think you have done.

Rebuild the 5V section.

That should cover it, I'd think.

[MartyJ]

Marty - I'd be checking the Fuse Holders on the Power supply. They are notorious from problems like the one you describe.

Check connectors - Which I think you have done.

Rebuild the 5V section.

That should cover it, I'd think.

Fuse holders done on Power Supply.  Connectors look OK...None appear burnt or discoloured and seem to fit OK (ie not loose)...

I think perhaps the 5v needs looking at...I've got all the bits except the 2N6059 and 330uf 35v cap.  I will order some from futurlec.com.au and see how I go.....

[Strangeways]

Marty - I'd be checking the Fuse Holders on the Power supply. They are notorious from problems like the one you describe.

Check connectors - Which I think you have done.

Rebuild the 5V section.

That should cover it, I'd think.

Fuse holders done on Power Supply.  Connectors look OK...None appear burnt or discoloured and seem to fit OK (ie not loose)...

I think perhaps the 5v needs looking at...I've got all the bits except the 2N6059 and 330uf 35v cap.  I will order some from futurlec.com.au and see how I go.....

Go ahead with the rebuild.. This is a new issue with the game - isn't it ?

Just wondering if the reset is caused by any particular action on the playfield  - like hitting the same target etc.. I've seen a switch wired incorrectly which threw the switch matrix on a Bally/Williams and it caused a "slam tilt" once in a while..

[humpalot]

Check and replace the metal fuse clips.  Replace them don't solder them up.

[MartyJ]

Marty - I'd be checking the Fuse Holders on the Power supply. They are notorious from problems like the one you describe.

Check connectors - Which I think you have done.

Rebuild the 5V section.

That should cover it, I'd think.

Fuse holders done on Power Supply.  Connectors look OK...None appear burnt or discoloured and seem to fit OK (ie not loose)...

I think perhaps the 5v needs looking at...I've got all the bits except the 2N6059 and 330uf 35v cap.  I will order some from futurlec.com.au and see how I go.....

Go ahead with the rebuild.. This is a new issue with the game - isn't it ?

Just wondering if the reset is caused by any particular action on the playfield  - like hitting the same target etc.. I've seen a switch wired incorrectly which threw the switch matrix on a Bally/Williams and it caused a "slam tilt" once in a while..

Not really a new issue, has done it 3 times since I finished everything else (over 1 month period)....No particular action otherwise I would be looking at that matrix...Flippers have been used - that is the only commonality, but no targets the same etc...Unless a G.I wire is done incorrectly I cant suspect anything else...When it does go into tilt / slam tilt it comes up on the DMD as TILT, which has never done...Just finishes the game.....

Check and replace the metal fuse clips.  Replace them don't solder them up.

Yep, all fuse clips replaced with new ones on powerboard.  All others checked and seem OK.

[humpalot]

The fuse clips on PBB not the power supply.

[MartyJ]

The fuse clips on PBB not the power supply.

Ahh PBB no....I pressed on the side of each one on all and didn't move...I didn't put a flat blade screwdriver under the base and lift as I didn't want to cause damage..

[humpalot]

pull the board out of the machine, remove one fuse at a time and have a good look at the clips.  At least one will be cracked, try to move the clip tabs with your fingers.  These clips always break.

[MartyJ]

pull the board out of the machine, remove one fuse at a time and have a good look at the clips.  At least one will be cracked, try to move the clip tabs with your fingers.  These clips always break.

Just removed board out....Each fuse removed one at a time..Visual inspection of clip looked ok.  With flat blade screwdriver on inside of clip pressed away and has good tension...unlike the powerboard ones which went soft and bent with same method...

Board looks as if had previous repair (apart from the Q1 which I replaced) so I suspect they may have been done before...

[MartyJ]

OK, after another hour of trying to reproduce manually what happened (although it didn't reset the game this time) I observed a bit of an oddity.

When the Lt Decker spinner is going and if you press flippers - the ball shooter will fire once.

I don't know if this is a feature or some sort of weird problem.  I had previously changed the diode on the ball shooter, but will also now change the one on the spinner too....

Update....replaced spinner diode...nil value.

Game has not reset, but I dont think the ball shooter should be firing when spinner is going! (with flippers)

[Strangeways]

OK, after another hour of trying to reproduce manually what happened (although it didn't reset the game this time) I observed a bit of an oddity.

When the Lt Decker spinner is going and if you press flippers - the ball shooter will fire once.

I don't know if this is a feature or some sort of weird problem.  I had previously changed the diode on the ball shooter, but will also now change the one on the spinner too....

Update....replaced spinner diode...nil value.

Game has not reset, but I dont think the ball shooter should be firing when spinner is going! (with flippers)

That's strange.... Check that the spinner is not in the same column / row as the ball shooter..

[MartyJ]

OK, after another hour of trying to reproduce manually what happened (although it didn't reset the game this time) I observed a bit of an oddity.

When the Lt Decker spinner is going and if you press flippers - the ball shooter will fire once.

I don't know if this is a feature or some sort of weird problem.  I had previously changed the diode on the ball shooter, but will also now change the one on the spinner too....

Update....replaced spinner diode...nil value.

Game has not reset, but I dont think the ball shooter should be firing when spinner is going! (with flippers)

That's strange.... Check that the spinner is not in the same column / row as the ball shooter..

I get a little confused how to read these, but if they go numerical down each column then spinner is in different column to ball shooter.  Right / left flipper in same column as spinner

[MartyJ]

OK further testing has revealed the following:

(a) in diagnostics mode if either flipper button pressed on its own...just reports that flipper button...
(b) in diagnostics mode if left flipper button pressed (with spinner switch activated) reports left flipper + ball trough 7 switch
(c) in diagnostics mode if right flipper button pressed (with spinner switch activated) reports right flipper + ball shooter switch...

There has been a wiring hack which I suspect may have caused the issue....If someone can let me know if above is NOT correct in diagnostics then also what wiring should come off trough 7 and to where and wiring from ball shooter switch (one which ball rolls over )...

I will have a look at the schematics I got but I have a bit of a hard time understanding it...I will take a photo of the hack and upload soon...

 #$# (shrugs shoulders at some operators who do this)

OK hack as follows (!)






The yellow wire (non std) goes from the NO of trough 7 switch, straight to the NO of ball shooter switch, then via the hack at the plug to CN8?
From looking at the schematics (from my translation) it looks as if this is correct...

However, I have found a loose wire which connects off like a dumb terminal from the underside of the PF...It could just be a loose wire but I don't know if its a hack or not.  There does not appear to be a colour banding on this.  The other two wires on the other lug is white / red (which I think is switch returns).  The one from the spinner is white orange which both go to C10.... I cannot find a schematic for under PF wiring such as this either..I'm trying here but starting to get a little 

[Strangeways]

Looks to me like the IDC connector has been butchered and another wire (yellow) has been used in its place. It might look ugly, but it looks like it was a "running repair"..

I don't see the "loose" wire - looks to be three wires soldered, and a diode in circuit.

I'd be looking at the circuit to see if the Spinner diode is wired correctly. I know you replaced it, but it might have been around the wrong way to start with ?