Funhouse Restoration

[pinnies4me]

The plastic cover in the top l/h/s corner has yellowed to.  Not sure what to do with it?

Just took a look at a spare I had to offer it to you - that's quite yellowed too, as is the one on my game - maybe that's par for the course?

[MartyJ]

Thanks anyway Nick.

The other one on the main ramp is also yellow.  I've got it soaking in a bleech to see if it helps!

[pinnies4me]

Thanks anyway Nick.

The other one on the main ramp is also yellow.  I've got it soaking in a bleech to see if it helps!

Let me know if the bleach fails Marty - I do have a spare of that you can have that is nice and clear.

[MartyJ]

Been going between jobs - mostly working on the cabinet..About 8 hours into it in total.

Most of the little dings, scratches etc have been filled.  Just futher sanding prior to primer.

Backbox brackets have been sanded and painted.  Speaker panel cleaned.

Boards completed.

[Strangeways]

Looking good Marty - Keep the updates coming !

[MartyJ]

Thanks Nino.  Lots of work going into the cab this time.  Much easier the 2nd time (after HS2) and I'm still learning more from reading HEP resto's too.

Off to the auto-paint store next week to buy primer & get the Funhouse blue matched.  I've got some codes from the US for the paint but not sure if it is the same down here?  Either way if its close I'll let you know and the numbers etc.

Hopefully should have the majority of repairs & sanding done by end of tomorrow.

[Strangeways]

Cool Marty - If it is pantone - then it is "universal" - should be the same ? Just check with the paint people.

[MartyJ]

Spent most of the day sanding, filling, sanding.  Just need to give one side final sand and finish work on rear of cab.

I've replaced the chocks/rails (not sure of correct term) as the old ones were particle board and swollen.

The rear WMS serial number sticker is shot.  I'm going to try and sort something out with those as I still want them on.

[ddstoys]

Love your work mate its coming along nicely 

[MartyJ]

Cab has had first coat of primer.  Will be sanded this arvo and some more filling on a couple of spots.

Nice and still / warm this morning so came off the gun reasonably well.

[MartyJ]

Second coat down.  Rubbed back in between and a couple of light fills.

The sides and front are as good as I'm going to get them...The back is not 100% but its never looked at.

So much easier this time around.  Previously it was done by hand sanding, pressure pack cans etc...

This time, big compressor, orbital sander (air), blower, acrylic primer, prepsol....

Next is head box.  Those decals do not want to come off with heat, so they will have to be sanded.

[Strangeways]

Looking very "straight", Marty 

Just comparing notes - in between coats, I usually use 600 grit wet/Dry, and I usually dampen the sandpaper and leave the cab out in the sun to dry. It gives me a REALLY smooth cabinet for the second and third undercoat. After the last undercoat - I leave the cab for a week.

but - I usually "hand" sand the cab just to get a "feel" for the job.

I'm interested in your methods.

What grit are you using on your sander ?

what type of primer are you using ?

The results are outstanding !

[MartyJ]

Looking very "straight", Marty 

Just comparing notes - in between coats, I usually use 600 grit wet/Dry, and I usually dampen the sandpaper and leave the cab out in the sun to dry. It gives me a REALLY smooth cabinet for the second and third undercoat. After the last undercoat - I leave the cab for a week.

but - I usually "hand" sand the cab just to get a "feel" for the job.

I'm interested in your methods.

What grit are you using on your sander ?

what type of primer are you using ?

The results are outstanding !

The vast majority of other sanding was done by hand (float) pre-primer...Primer was K & H acryilc primer (1 part primer, 1 part thinner) sprayed on with gun.
Was sanded in between with 220 grit on the air orbital sander.  It works a treat.  Very lightly used and it pretty much sucks out the dust so no clogs.  The whole cabinet was done in two disks.  Wipe down afterwards and very smooth.
I was surprised how well it came off the gun.  No joggers or peel.  My spraypainter advised that the acrylic will shrink a tad, but with decals going on shouldn't be a drama.  I found a really good auto paint place in Thomastown and I picked up 4ltrs of thinner, 1ltr prepsol, 2 mixing cups, 5 filters and a big bundle of mixing sticks for $40.00.

Out of interest - on the decals on the headbox (part removed) I used prepsol on a rag to test clean and came up OK too.  Maybe something to further test later on.

[Strangeways]

Thanks Marty. I'm a bit "old school" and I have not done a repaint since the Jacks Open.

I need to get "up to speed" as I want to do a "few" cabinets soon !

[Caveoftreasures]

Have a look at ebay item no 140350783743
- the link is below

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140350783743&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com.au%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D140350783743%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

I have just purchased 1 x of these to do 3 x full empty cabinets inside n out, that I have just purchased for a special project.

I am told that the beedblaster will strip a full pinball cabinet incl headbox etc,back to bare new wood, inside n out, from top to bottom in apx 20 minutes tops. It Also gets in all the places (corners) where most sanders will not.Beads come in all shapes n sizes n types.plastic or manmade etc.
As soon as i get mine going, i will post a video of the new toy working its magic.

Most tool shops etc in most areas have the same type machines for the same prices.just add a cheap air compressor.

Hope it helps some members save time n effort.