Author Topic: Creature Prototype Restoration  (Read 9349 times)

0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #45 on: November 06, 2009, 10:00:05 PM »
Lather / Rinse / Repeat, meaning for the most part, more of same.

Days work started here:

http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/proto_cftbl_progress/DSCN1594

Cleaned some remaining hardware.

Definately need to scuff and repaint all coin door metal as well as the backbox hinges.

Hand polished and rebuilt the flipper opto board assys



The reflection is awful, the blades and springs are shiny and the correct colors.



Hardware sorted, the tilt looks fabulous



Slam tilt switch


Slam tilt switch disassembled for blade polishing, harness and plug cleaning etc


1 blade cleaned up..


Slam tilt switch cleaned and rebuilt

Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #46 on: November 07, 2009, 07:03:17 PM »
Today's update

Worked for a couple hours, polishing more hardware. Getting closer to starting to assemble the cabinet.

Repaired the resting brackets - these were bent pretty heavily, surely related to the poor condition of the cabinet, which was not square. Now it is square, so these will have to line up.



Lower bracket has a bit of a rough spot that will cut into the playfield if not addressed



Knocked the high spots down with 120 grit, before cleaning the bracket up. Left 2 small pits, but the bracket will clean up fine, and you'll never see the pits, because they are hidden.



Top bracket cleaned but not yet polished


Brackets to update the playfield slides cleaned before polishing


Ready to install


Playfield slides are next. There's definately something wrong with the lower!


Did I mention someone beat the crap out of this game?


Working at night has its drawbacks. At 1:30 AM, I can't just drop everything and go to my storage to dig through parts. So, the only spare rail I have in the shop is kinda ugly. But, since I need it to proceed, I'll try to clean it up.



Spring is mangled, but I have a spare



After 10 minutes of working on the slide, using scotch-brite, sandpaper, polish and finally a fiberglass sanding pin, the picture would appear to have positive results.

I'm not sure I'm totally happy yet, and can't sandblast it this time of night due to the noise, so I'm gonna call it a night here, if you ever feel like you are cutting corners on a restoration, it's best to stop and come back when you're ready. I need to sleep on this, try to decide if there's a better way to remove the surface rust, and consider if I should just grab another slide from storage - this part would be fine in most games just cleaned up, but I'm picky for my restorations!




Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #47 on: November 08, 2009, 06:52:36 PM »
Got the slide pretty clean tonight and it polished up nicely. But, the more I look at it, it's the wrong style slide. I need to either find another of the 'new' style slide, or another of the old style ones - I want a matching pair :)



I used a brass bristled brush in my drill press, and it got into the deep nooks and crannies and cleaned it up. I always use heavy leather gloves and eye protection when I use the wire wheel.



Decided while I had the drill press out, I should go ahead and tidy up the lockdown bar and receiver.

Receiver before:



Lockdown before



A bath in degreaser


The glue on the lockbar wiped off after soaking in the degreaser, and the beer seal peeled off in 3 big pieces. Then, the glue brushed right off!

Lockdown receiver after:



Isn't perfect, but a massive improvement! Have a couple hours in that piece alone.

Screws for the lockdown receiver polished up nice, but need to be tumbled. The plastic cover for the lever needs to be replaced.

Offline MartyJ

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • ******
  • High Score Initials:
  • Forum Posts:
  • Melbourne
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #48 on: November 08, 2009, 07:01:22 PM »
Awesome work John.  Simply stunning.

Generally for show screws / bolts after tumbling I put them into my cordess drill (ie thread side into chuck) - and run it full speed into a red scotch pad with iso-alcohol on the pad.  They come up a treat!

Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #49 on: November 08, 2009, 08:00:55 PM »
Thanks for the tip, I'll have to give that a try!

Those red scotchbrite pads are challenging my patience!

I got the last 2 of them from a home improvement store earlier this week, they told me they would be restocked by the weekend. Went in today, they were not restocked. Visited 2 other home improvement or hardware stores, no such luck

Time to order a box of them off eBay I guess. The heads polished up real nice by just taking a cloth towel, dipping the head in metal polish, and driving the head of the screw into the towel. Shine like mirrors actually. But, it didn't work so well on the threads.

Trying to get my list of parts together. Looking like I'll have to place 3 separate orders, because I can't get everything at one place. Not that I mind that, but I know I'll forget at least 1 item per order, and then I'll have to place 3 more - so I am trying to make sure my lists are complete :) I also finished up the Firepower II in my repair bay, and tested it on and off over a week, so I'm ready to fold it up, get it out, and start setting up the Creature cab. It needs re-braided and new leg plates installed.  Also waiting on a part from the guy who built my rotisserie so I can stick the playfield in it - so I've been doing a few bits out of order. If I don't order parts soon, or get rotisserie parts soon, I won't be able to proceed...

Offline MartyJ

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • ******
  • High Score Initials:
  • Forum Posts:
  • Melbourne
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #50 on: November 08, 2009, 08:23:44 PM »
Thanks for the tip, I'll have to give that a try!

Those red scotchbrite pads are challenging my patience!

I got the last 2 of them from a home improvement store earlier this week, they told me they would be restocked by the weekend. Went in today, they were not restocked. Visited 2 other home improvement or hardware stores, no such luck

Time to order a box of them off eBay I guess. The heads polished up real nice by just taking a cloth towel, dipping the head in metal polish, and driving the head of the screw into the towel. Shine like mirrors actually. But, it didn't work so well on the threads.

Trying to get my list of parts together. Looking like I'll have to place 3 separate orders, because I can't get everything at one place. Not that I mind that, but I know I'll forget at least 1 item per order, and then I'll have to place 3 more - so I am trying to make sure my lists are complete :) I also finished up the Firepower II in my repair bay, and tested it on and off over a week, so I'm ready to fold it up, get it out, and start setting up the Creature cab. It needs re-braided and new leg plates installed.  Also waiting on a part from the guy who built my rotisserie so I can stick the playfield in it - so I've been doing a few bits out of order. If I don't order parts soon, or get rotisserie parts soon, I won't be able to proceed...


It works very well!  I just cleaned up two shooter rods that were rusty (too big for tumbler)...Soaked in degreaser, washed, dried.  End into the drill (just fit!) and same with iso-alcohol and red pad.

I've found that auto-body paint supply shops sell the pads at the cheapest price and in bulk down here.  If I bought them from Autobarn (which sells car stuff - big chain) I'll pay about $3.00 per pad.  At the auto-body paint shops you'll get them heaps heaps cheaper. 

Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #51 on: November 10, 2009, 01:02:35 AM »
Day 14 involved my tackling the coin door and determining if I could fill the holes in the coin bezel. After asking on RGP and talking to a couple people I know, it became obvious that JB Weld was a suitable product to try and fill the holes in the coin bezel.

In order to make sure I hadn't missed any hardware, I reinstalled the coin door frame and a few other small bits, and looked at the entire door. Next, I disassembled the door, and separated the parts out as the harness needs cleaned, and all metal parts need repainted.

Entire door pic:


Backside pic:


Bezel pic:


Bezel sanded and cleaned up prior to JB weld application. The tops of the holes were not smooth, and the instructions said to remove paint.


Equal parts of JB Weld squeezed out


JB Weld parts mixed with a bamboo skewer


JB Weld applied to the bezel



Hopefully, there won't be too much shrinkage and I can sand this down and do maybe 1 more application if there are low spots, then eventually sand and paint.

Do I tackle the 4 small holes in the door skin, or just let them be, remembering that the enemy of 'good' is 'better'...


Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #52 on: November 10, 2009, 06:07:35 PM »
I really like JB weld!

The bezel took 2 applications to really get where I wanted it.

First application ended up like this:



Pretty good, but a little shrinkage. To be expected, really, as I applied it and then raked over it with a putty knife to make sure it was pushed down in the holes well - it was pretty thick, not loose - so it wouldn't 'flow' into the holes without a little encouragement.

This stuff dries STRONG. I poked at it with a bamboo skewer to make sure it was dry, and the skewer bent!

So, I mixed up a 2nd batch of JB Weld, and globbed it on top of the first (dried) batch.



Sanding the 2nd application yielded nice results. It is smooth and level; the bezel itself is not perfectly flat, so some JB weld filled some low spots. I think once I prime and paint, it'll look new.



And a bunch of JB weld sanding dust :)


Cleaned up the shop a bit tonight, folded up the last customers game as it's ready to rock and I need the bay to build out the cabinet. Found some other bits I've lined up for the project

Reproduction CFTBL legs


Extruded plastic bits - rear PF glass channel, H channel that goes atop the speaker panel, backglass lift and side trim etc


Enhanced leg bolt plates


Restored creature cabinet, ready to unwrap, rebraid and build out:




Offline MartyJ

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • ******
  • High Score Initials:
  • Forum Posts:
  • Melbourne
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #53 on: November 10, 2009, 09:47:48 PM »
Loving your work John.  I guess we're a bit lucky now with a mountain of new doors at Marks - but its cheating by just whacking a new door on rather than restoring the original like you're doing - plus I understand the US guys wanting to keep the original doors...All mine have export parts and that's what I'm use too!.

I'm very interested to see how you paint it to get the original WMS paint effects.  I've seen the HEP jobs and they come out amazing - you could never pick it.

I also like your shed!  Looks like its 100% purpose built for restoring pins!

Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #54 on: November 11, 2009, 03:33:20 AM »
Part of my going with the original doors is just me trying to be a little cheap.

I've been out of work for over 4 months now, and I try to spread money as thin as I can right now. I go back next Monday and finally will get paid again November 30th!

But, truth be told, I've got 2 brand new US 2 slot doors sitting in a box in the basement, so I guess I can't blame being cheap on this one :) However, I *did* locate a NOS door skin and coin entrance for the door I'm working on; downside is, it would cost more than a whole new door with shipping etc.

Another part of it is wanting the original door that was on the game to stay with it. Of course, you throw originality out the window when you use cabinet decals, clearcoat, etc.

Another aspect of it is the large contingent of people here in the US that claim a container game is not as good as a game that has never left the country. I've owned crap games that never left the state, let alone the country, and some of my nicest games came out of containers. Plenty of collectors over here throw a new 2 slot door on all their export games to try and hide the fact that it is not a domestic game. Some of them even scan the serial number stickers and print off new ones and change the part where it says 240v to 120v etc. Not me! Any time I've had new serial number labels printed up, I've left them 100% original.

Some people think a restoration is about buying up every NOS part for the game that they can find, and bolting them onto a NOS or new playfield etc. That's not restoring anything, that's just switching out parts.

So, I will stick the original 3 slot door back on the games many times, if it will clean up reasonably nice. Perfect isn't a requirement.

Sometimes, I do use new doors - my Safecracker had a single slot coin door with a comparator on it. I put a 2 slot door on it, so I can use my tokens and quarters. I don't really like most single slot doors. 2 and 3 slots don't bother me.

Regarding the restoration of the door, I hope I can make it look original. I've read a few articles and newsgroup posts on the procedure.

One from TreasureCove:

http://www.treasure-cove.net/coindoor.htm

One from Bryan Kelly
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/msg/3d9edb186b98d8c7

And the pics for Bryan's description
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/Coin-door-restoration

In the past, I've had decent luck just cleaning the door and spraying over top of the old paint - seems to let the original speckled finish show through. The coin bezel I did all the sanding on wasn't speckled, so repainting it won't require the speckles.

Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #55 on: November 11, 2009, 05:32:28 PM »
Painting went OK today for the most parts. With the exception of the right backbox hinge, the parts painted turned out phenomenal. The right backbox hinge had some sort of a weird finish. I ended up sanding it down to bare metal and decided to respray it and see where it ends up.




Debating over giving it a clear lacquer finish or not.

Offline shansta

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Vic...
  • I want to migrate... To Qld...
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #56 on: November 12, 2009, 11:41:37 PM »
Top shelf John - nice work!

I get the scotch pads at work (Clean injection molds with 'em) - they also come in a brown color which is strong enough to strip surface rust, whereas I find the red ones fall to bits...
Why is it called PMS?
Because "Mad Cow Disease" was already taken...

Offline Strangeways

  • Pinball Restoration is my passion
  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (+9)
  • *****
  • High Score Initials:
  • Forum Posts:
  • Melbourne
  • ABN 68 283 634 461
    • Ride The Boney Beast
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #57 on: November 12, 2009, 11:49:25 PM »

Looking good John !

I'm about to repaint the door on the Pinbot, so I'm keen on seeing your results  ^^^
Aussie Pinball - Proud to be Australia's Premier Pinball Forum

http://www.australianpinballrestorations.com.au/

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/

We carry the largest range of NEW Ramps in Australia

Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #58 on: November 13, 2009, 04:53:56 AM »
I like the texture I got, but I wouldn't call it 100% identical to original. I have a NOS 2 slot door skin I picked up years ago, will take some side by side pics with my *good* camera. I typically don't get it out in the shop due to all the dust/dirt/crap flying around, but I can be careful with it and get a few pictures.

All the parts got a coat of clear lacquer as a clearcoat on top of the repaint. Not 100% sure if the lacquer is necessary or even good - but unless something glaring pops up, I'm going to reassemble the door the way it looks now. As I learned early on with this hobby, the enemy of good can be better; I may make what I have worse by continuing to mess with it. It looks good, and short of new parts, I'm not sure it can get better.

I think I mentioned before, I found a NOS coin door skin (just the metal part the coin parts bolt to) and a NOS coin entrance piece, but for $100, I'm going to live with what I have and have $100 to put into the project elsewhere. It's an easy swap out, should I regret not getting it later, and for $100, I don't think it's going to sell very quickly. Especially if I don't devulge where it is :)

Picture of the clearcoated parts:


This picture shows the bezel, along with the texture. Note that you *can* see the spot where the JB weld was applied. It's perfectly smooth, and under normal light as well as viewing at the angle it will be installed, you cannot tell. I don't know if maybe this is a result of not priming it before painting or what, next one I repair will be primed to see if it makes a difference.



Found a couple coin switch covers on another junk coin door, so now this one will have all 3..



While we are looking at stuff the majority will think are totally unnecessary and a frivolous waste of time, I have a NOS cash box, NOS cash box bracket and NOS bracket lock bar from the IPB sale, that will round out the cabinet nicely once installed




The only bummer is, the 3 slot cashboxes of this style don't have the neat WMS W logo on them (aka the 'upside down Motorola logo)

3 new coin entrances, 3 new coin reject button assemblies including 'QUARTERS' insert, and a new decal to go on the service buttons on the coin door



Getting some more parts together, I have a convenience outlet, new varistor and thermistor. They will help me 'upgrade' the power system to the correct domestic US parts, for authenticity *and* protection to the game



And a picture inside the power box, pre conversion


And of course, I use keyed alike locks, as original, standard on all my machines. The backboxes of all my games get one of these locks, anodized black like original, with the same key number across games. The coin doors get the original style double bitted locks, also keyed to the same key number across games. So far, I've had this set of locks for going on 2 years and have only sold 1 game and forgot to remove them, and the game I sold with locks, the new owner was a friend and he willingly returned them :)



Offline johnwartjr

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Columbus, Indiana USA
  • It's ALIVEEEEEE!
    • My Home Gameroom . com
Re: Creature Prototype Restoration
« Reply #59 on: November 13, 2009, 08:03:58 PM »
Today shall not count in my 'days' scheme, as when I wandered into the workshop to reassemble the coin door, I realized I had a major brain fart, and did not tumble the coin door hardware. Since some of it was a bit ugly, I threw it into the tumbler and will check on it sometime tomorrow.

Today was a exhausting day in other ways, so the Creature kinda got neglected. Sorry Creech!