clear coating play fields

[63wizz]

Im planning on clear coating my Xenon pf but am unsure if i can use an automotive clear Septone Aerosol Paint - Clear Topcoat, 400g on it.

I was thinking of using the spray pack,will this work or not.

Ian

[Replicas]

Personally I would not even try it with hand held aerosol clear, to much to go wrong. And if you mess it up its going to be a bugger to put right.
Take it to your local auto bodyshop and get a price. It may cost more but the end result will be worth it.

[Strangeways]

Our USA friends use a product called Varathane, with good results. I've often wondered if there is an Aussie equivalent, as I've contacted the RustOleum dealers in Australia and they are not interested in importing it.

I'd want to test anything on an playfield first. I think Daniel (DDSTOYS) has used this product, Ian.

[63wizz]

Personally I would not even try it with hand held aerosol clear, to much to go wrong. And if you mess it up its going to be a bugger to put right.
Take it to your local auto bodyshop and get a price. It may cost more but the end result will be worth it.

What are some of the thing that can go wrong using spray packs.

I dont think ill bother with an auto repair shop, i would rather just re mylar.

Ian

[shansta]

Auto spray gun will do a better flatter job - that's all, dust control is better at a pro shop too.

Nino: Tried paintmobile? (They're in Dandenong)

They make a "Acrylic Clear" in a aerosol (I have 1) , they probably do it in a 1lt/4lt tin as well?
Also have a polyurethane clear listed on the website.

I thought the gun trick was to use 2 pack clear? (Which they probably sell)

[MartyJ]

Ian,

I did some testing a while back with pressure pack acrylic clears.  Albiet not on a playfield, it was difficult to get a really flat finish and flared up on second coat.  My biggest concern would be how durable it is with the ball.

Having done it on my FH playfield - I would definately go the 2k clear.  If you can borrow a good compressor and gun that would be the way to go.  Would cost less than $100 in materials.

I think it would cost a few hundred to get a spray painter to do it....I would weigh up the cost of a new CPR repro which are available locally.

[63wizz]

Thats the trouble with CC, it all gets to confusing, mylar is simple to apply, but i love the CC finish.

Ian

[MartyJ]

Thats the trouble with CC, it all gets to confusing, mylar is simple to apply, but i love the CC finish.

Ian

The prep is definately the hardest part.  Nice clean dust & wax free.

As far as 2k clear - nothing too confusing.  I bought the mixing cups with measuring on them...As per the instructions - 2  parts clear, 1 part hardner (std) and 10% 2k thinners.

2k is not good for you, so a mask & tyvek suit would be important.

[Strangeways]

Auto spray gun will do a better flatter job - that's all, dust control is better at a pro shop too.

Nino: Tried paintmobile? (They're in Dandenong)

They make a "Acrylic Clear" in a aerosol (I have 1) , they probably do it in a 1lt/4lt tin as well?
Also have a polyurethane clear listed on the website.

I thought the gun trick was to use 2 pack clear? (Which they probably sell)

Paintmobile is in Preston as well -which is where we get all of our paint from. Really good people.

[Retropin]

Acrylic clear can be found at any hardware store for about $10 a can.. its not bad stuff and quick drying, ive used it to seal glasses and restored aprons. It comes out a little fast thats all so several light coats are best way to go. As for using it on a PF, it would be harder wearing than Mylar, it is VERY easy to apply and can be removed if required later down the track with all purpose thinners - it turns it to jelly and just wipes off.
 2K is harder wearing and nasty to inhale etc - pretty toxic stuff, it also eats a lot of paints.
Now... ALL CC is prone to fish eyes etc.. even pros  applying have difficulties and often have to rub back and reapply to get a real smooth finish. Personally, i reckon CC is vastly overrated.
For home use the acrylic is good and forgiving, if you stuff up and fish eye it can be rubbed back and you can do several coats in one afternoon.

Polyurathne ( CFP) is even better - comes in 2K also and again available from Bunnings - is harder wearing and recommended for timber floors ( a stilleto will do 100,000X more damage than any steel ball and this stuff copes with that)... takes longer to dry but really easy to use and is not  prone to fish eye. If your paint is fully dried it will not eat it. Can be applied very thinly and has VERY slightly yellowed finish ( negligeable on thin coatings) that matches EM and early SS coatings. Clean up real easy. If you stuff up then it has to be removed before it cures with turps etc.

CC really only comes into play for DMD's to match the finish...

P/thane will see you good for anything else is more authentic

[Strangeways]

Gav - you make is sound so EASY to do ! Being an athsmatic, I cannot venture near the chemicals required to do the CC process. I am interested in the process you describe - I think this should be documented in detail during one of your resto threads.

[63wizz]

Gav - you make is sound so EASY to do ! Being an athsmatic, I cannot venture near the chemicals required to do the CC process. I am interested in the process you describe - I think this should be documented in detail during one of your resto threads.

Documented... Amen to that, as it is very confusing.

So Gav the acrylic in a spray can can be used no problems, and wont eat the pf art

Ian

[shansta]

Paintmobile is in Preston as well -which is where we get all of our paint from. Really good people.

Forgot you are on the "wrong" side of the tracks! Sorry! 

And yes they have a good rep on this side of town too. 


Q for RetroPin: Does the polyurethane come in a pressure pack? (I've got spray gear so no stress either way)

I've done a coffee table with an inlaid picture - but that was poured on to fill the inlay as well... Looked shit-hot when it dried!

[Retropin]

Gav - you make is sound so EASY to do ! Being an athsmatic, I cannot venture near the chemicals required to do the CC process. I am interested in the process you describe - I think this should be documented in detail during one of your resto threads.

Documented... Amen to that, as it is very confusing.

So Gav the acrylic in a spray can can be used no problems, and wont eat the pf art

Ian

I cant answer that cos i havent used the one shown.. ive only used the White Knights Crystal Clear... but basically if its with a turps or white spirit clean up it will be Ok

[ddstoys]

 Ive also used the white knigh crystal clear on wall hangers without lifting paint but cant comment on the life with a  silver ball on it.   I can throw a few balls at my Mata Hari playfield if you like?????