NEW GORGAR BACKGLASS IS HERE :)

[GORGAR 1]

New GORGAR backglass arrived yesterday from Mayfair in the states via Waynes Parts container-Its fantastic already sealed and was a repo from Williams in 1996 which is Mayfairs last one -It's on the machine and looks fantastic. I took a few globes out to lower the heat on the glass and a few globes look abit close to the backglass so do the score panels-is this normal? I don't have another SS to compare..Anyway I reckon I may have the best looking GORGAR in Australia and proud of my baby.

Peter

[Strangeways]

Good News, Peter. Nothing better than slowly building up your "Holy Grail" Pinball with new / repro parts.

I'm sure it will be the best in Australia. Classic Playfields in Canada are reproducing the plastics next year. I buy direct from them and their quality is fantastic !

[Pinball Fixers]

Nice pick up Peter!

Having a new backglass will make a big difference to the machine, and Gorgar is definitely worth it.

Would be a good idea to use #47 globes behind the backglass - they are not as hot as the #44's and only slightly lees bright (not really noticeable though).

The score displays are pretty close to the glass, but this shouldn't be a problem.

[MartyJ]

Nice pick up Peter!

Having a new backglass will make a big difference to the machine, and Gorgar is definitely worth it.

Would be a good idea to use #47 globes behind the backglass - they are not as hot as the #44's and only slightly lees bright (not really noticeable though).

The score displays are pretty close to the glass, but this shouldn't be a problem.

Might be worth trying some of the white defused LED's....I reckon that would have to have the least amount of heat?

[Pinball Fixers]

Nice pick up Peter!

Having a new backglass will make a big difference to the machine, and Gorgar is definitely worth it.

Would be a good idea to use #47 globes behind the backglass - they are not as hot as the #44's and only slightly lees bright (not really noticeable though).

The score displays are pretty close to the glass, but this shouldn't be a problem.

Might be worth trying some of the white defused LED's....I reckon that would have to have the least amount of heat?

Fair point actually... LED's will be almost zero heat.

To keep the backglass looking the same though, use "Warm White" LED's - these give about the same colour as the original globes.

[MartyJ]

Nice pick up Peter!

Having a new backglass will make a big difference to the machine, and Gorgar is definitely worth it.

Would be a good idea to use #47 globes behind the backglass - they are not as hot as the #44's and only slightly lees bright (not really noticeable though).

The score displays are pretty close to the glass, but this shouldn't be a problem.

Might be worth trying some of the white defused LED's....I reckon that would have to have the least amount of heat?

Fair point actually... LED's will be almost zero heat.

To keep the backglass looking the same though, use "Warm White" LED's - these give about the same colour as the original globes.

I havn't seen the warm white ones...I was looking at Albert's (Germany) defused LEDs....I agree 100% that a normal one would be too bright / sharp for the machine but given the investment for the backglass etc...I think it would be worth the investment!
Speaking of that...Don't forget to up the value of your pin for your insurance too!  Easy to forget

[slammer]

I use the 10mm Superbright LEDS in custom interiors all the time, all I do is grind down the dome flat to just below the dome starts and leave the ground surface as is. This changes the output of the LED from a near perfect 2-3" circle with a very definate line to a soft light that just blends out, its very hard to descibe sort of like fluffly clouds. I will takle some pics of the 63 Cadillac I am doing at the moment when I get back home later.

Cheers Angelo

[Pinball Fixers]

I use the 10mm Superbright LEDS in custom interiors all the time, all I do is grind down the dome flat to just below the dome starts and leave the ground surface as is. This changes the output of the LED from a near perfect 2-3" circle with a very definate line to a soft light that just blends out, its very hard to descibe sort of like fluffly clouds. I will takle some pics of the 63 Cadillac I am doing at the moment when I get back home later.

Cheers Angelo

You can get flat ended LED's these days, but not sure if they are available in the 10mm size. But grinding them down does do the job nicely.

Although doing it this way would mean wiring each one in yourself with a resistor, vs using LED's that are already assembled in the same base as a #44 globe, and suitable for pinballs.

[GORGAR 1]

Good News, Peter. Nothing better than slowly building up your "Holy Grail" Pinball with new / repro parts.

I'm sure it will be the best in Australia. Classic Playfields in Canada are reproducing the plastics next year. I buy direct from them and their quality is fantastic !

Excellent-mine are very good but repo's would be great/carn't wait.

Peter

[GORGAR 1]

Nice pick up Peter!

Having a new backglass will make a big difference to the machine, and Gorgar is definitely worth it.

Would be a good idea to use #47 globes behind the backglass - they are not as hot as the #44's and only slightly lees bright (not really noticeable though).

The score displays are pretty close to the glass, but this shouldn't be a problem.

Yeah I've changed all my globes to the #47-less heat-thanks for the suggestion.

Peter

[GORGAR 1]

Below is a quote from Mayfair Re: sealing backglass:

It is already sealed, Yes Williams repro. Enjoy

So should last for years/I'm wrapped..

Peter

[Retropin]

I read thisd post this morning before work and meant to reply...


A NEW BG - awesome!!!

Now to add life to it - make sure that none of the lamp enclosures rub on the glass - give these a light sand back by 1mm or so - also the raised partical board enclosures - these are sometimes right on the BG and will gradually rub to give wear spots over time - again sand off but then add a coat of primer to make white again.

The off white LED's are a pretty new product, slightly more expensive, but not a true "blue "light like standard LED's.

The colours in the BG will absorb the various colours that make up light, which gives the inks their colours. Problem is that because LED"s are a TRUE white, some of this isnt absorbed and so they can pierce through like beacons. Sanding the tops works to an extent as it diffuses the light from a pin point to a wider scope, but it wont take away the true blue white and so the "blue"will punch through.

Off white LED's should eliminate this. There now is a range of products including acrylic and vinyl that is designed for true white LED's - everything before it is for an incandescent light and so a yellowish off white - your BG will not have the right inks for true white

[GORGAR 1]

I read thisd post this morning before work and meant to reply...


A NEW BG - awesome!!!

Now to add life to it - make sure that none of the lamp enclosures rub on the glass - give these a light sand back by 1mm or so - also the raised partical board enclosures - these are sometimes right on the BG and will gradually rub to give wear spots over time - again sand off but then add a coat of primer to make white again.

The off white LED's are a pretty new product, slightly more expensive, but not a true "blue "light like standard LED's.

The colours in the BG will absorb the various colours that make up light, which gives the inks their colours. Problem is that because LED"s are a TRUE white, some of this isnt absorbed and so they can pierce through like beacons. Sanding the tops works to an extent as it diffuses the light from a pin point to a wider scope, but it wont take away the true blue white and so the "blue"will punch through.

Off white LED's should eliminate this. There now is a range of products including acrylic and vinyl that is designed for true white LED's - everything before it is for an incandescent light and so a yellowish off white - your BG will not have the right inks for true white

Thanks for the advice-I tried to messure by using a piece of dow by fitting it in the slot where the glass goes and the only thing sticking a little forward was the score glasses and on the old backglass there are rub marks around some of the score windows-not alot I can do with these?the lamp inclosures don't touch..So hopefully with the little use it will get and if I transported it I'd take the glass out it should be ok(I hope)

Peter

[GORGAR 1]

At last some pictures:









Hope you enjoyed-sorry about the half photos, I've tryed everything and I just cannot workout how to post pic's on this forum

Peter

[Creech]

Very nice. Amazing they would have a NOS one hanging around for so long. You are one lucky man!