My second pin has arrived - Pro football

[Ford Fairlane]

The only reason its not in flames is that i kind of enjoy the pain 

Well i have to hit the vari target otherwise i'd burn out the coil, but yes the game plays without me hitting the vari-target (ie bumpers still bump)  but no other scoring occurs. I just cant see the relationship... 1 of the Vari targets is screwed and doesnt notch back nicely but it does eventually otherwise i wouldnt be able to start a game as Jyebow suggested.

Man this has truly got me, i might have to get someone in.

I've only got bad language left in my toolkit 

[illawarra_steelers]

Rob,

I don't have any Gottlieb pins with a vari targets to check but it sounds like it's the actual relay (for the vari target) has a closed contact when it should be open

[Retropin]

Well i have to hit the vari target otherwise i'd burn out the coil,


yep - you have a closed contact - coil is energised permanantly = closed switch.

is there anything on the PF that activates the vari target?

Somewhere, a switch is closed

[dj10555]

I'm wondering if all the vari-target is doing is just advancing the score motor off the stuck position.

Rob, was the suspect 1C switch (inner most switch) labelled the motor return switch on the diagram inside the cabinet? I think this was the only Normally Open switch on the stack. Is this the motor home switch below? If so, could this be the problem below? ( from pinrepair.com)

The Score Motor's Home Switch.
Check the score motor's "home" switch (on Gottlieb's, usually at 1C or 4C). This switch is what turns off the score motor when it rotates to a "home" position every 120 degrees. Because of the score motor's electro-motive force (EMF) when the motor turns off, the score motor home switch gets a "blue arc" (easy to see when the score motor rotates!) every rotation of the score motor. The blue arc is *twice* the powering voltage due to the EMF that occurs as the magnetic field of the motor collapses when the power is removed. This blue arc makes the home switch wear and pit easily, and go out of adjustment. If the home switch is out of adjustment or worn, this too can allow the score motor to "over run" a home position, and perhap never stop running! Or on the other hand, when the score motor starts running due to another switch, the home switch may be so pitted and dirty it will not allow the motor to run to the next home position. This will often freeze the game and not allow it to play. Because of this it is absolutely necessary to make sure the home switch is clean and properly adjusted on any EM game.

[Strangeways]

That's correct Derek - I mentioned this earlier on - it must be closed at "home" position..

The Vari target should score the 50 yard and 500 point relay, then close the circuit to the "U" relay, which pulses the "Vari Target reset coils". This will push the vari target back to its home position. The four contacts on the Vari Target all move the score motor depending on the position of the Vari Target.

clean the switches on the "U" and "V" relays. Check for broken wires...

If you push the vari target BACK, he score motor should pulse. But - It needs to complete the circuit to the 100's score reel - which is always set to ZERO...

Maybe "trick" the game by starting up, hitting a target worth 100 points, and moving the score reel to 500 points...

[Ford Fairlane]

Ok i just checked the switch and yes its the motor runout switch. The inner most switch is closed while the others on that level are open.

Will check the relays mentioned u and v as well as all others i should say and see what happens. remembering also that the 100's reel is broken but i have set that to zero. Could this broken score reel be coming into play on this problem?

Anyway thanks for your patience guys!!

[Strangeways]

The Vari Target reset coil is activated by a the "U" Relay ( Vari-Target Reset Relay ).

I'll need to take a closer look at my game - my eyes are popping out !

[Ford Fairlane]

Another update (sorry im bored  ) Ive looked over all the switches and relays (especially u and v) and they seem ok. The runout home switch is pitted so i hit that with a bit of flexstone but not sure if i've done enough with it.

It all seems to come down to the vari - target as even the start button works now after i push the vari-target. One of the Vari-targets has got a broken bracket ??? (not sure of the right term) which makes it hard for the target to reset to hits home position (when doing this manually).. I really think i need to rebuild the Vari-targets..

Also want to remove the bottom board so i can see all the relays and switches towards the back of the cab. They are very hard to see at the moment. Any tips for doing this? should i remove playfield instead? Are there any parts (like the transformer) that can electric shock me even when power plug is pulled out?

Sorry just remembered something else, i want to make the game freeplay and i believe i can close the switch on the credit reel. I believe i know which swicth it is but im not sure how to "jumper" the switch closed (don't really want to bend it). This is so newbie of me but can i just get a wire and alligator clip on each switch with a wire running between them ??


Thanks again guys!!!

[jyebow]

Sorry just remembered something else, i want to make the game freeplay and i believe i can close the switch on the credit reel. I believe i know which swicth it is but im not sure how to "jumper" the switch closed (don't really want to bend it). This is so newbie of me but can i just get a wire and alligator clip on each switch with a wire running between them ??

Yeah Rob, I did a "temporary" freeplay mod on my GTB Golden Arrow. I just clipped an aligator clip onto ( to close) the switch contacts & six months later its still on & working fine. Clay's guides show which contacts to close.
cheers Steve.

[Ford Fairlane]

oh so i can just use 1 clip to clamp the switch closed? nice 1!!! thx Steve!!!

[Strangeways]

It is probably easier to remove the playfield - you will need to remove the plugs to the baseboard. Do this with the machine off and unplugged. You won't get a shock from an unplugged EM. If you want to take out the bottom board, all you have to do is remove the two screws holding it in. I think there is simply a plug for the front door.

Vari target has a broken bracket ? Interesting.. Compare it to the other one. I rebuilt mine and it works well. You can remove it from the playfield and then dismantle it on your bench. When cleaning, make sure you get any dirt out of the hole where the shaft moves backwards and forwards. Sometimes, Ops took the easy way out and lubricated them.. Clean the board with the contacts with green scotchbrite. The contacts should be nice and shiney. You can smear a drop on machine oil (3 in 1), and disperse it over the board so the arm that swings across the contacts has reduced friction. Make sure that when the coil at the rear of the assembly pulls in, the arm makes it all the way forward..

Freeplay is covered in the Marvin Guides...

Did you send of your Money Order yet to PBR ?

[Ford Fairlane]

Yep finally found a post office who understood what i needed ... phew. I will email Steve tonight to see if he can add the small bracket and spring for the vari target onto my order. I started the machine today and worked fine with the start button. Ball was in play but nothing scored. Drained the ball, fired it back into play and the same symptom of coil being stuck.. will rebuild vari target and cross my fingers.

[dj10555]

Hi Rob,
If you get a chance you could also order some 4 x flipper rebuild kits and a heap of #44/#47 bulbs. Having the bulbs replaced might help to see when targets are registered, ball count is incrementing, etc

regards Derek

[Ford Fairlane]

Thanks for reminding me Derek (for the flippers and bulbs) will also order pop bumpers as well.

[Ford Fairlane]

Hi guys, quick fuse question, i want to replace the fuses but not sure of voltage on pro football. 1 of them is clearly marked 25 volt 15 amp. the others just say 10 amp. Do i have to worry much about the voltage?

Cheers!