Author Topic: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore  (Read 2608 times)

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Offline JD

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #15 on: July 22, 2010, 07:12:51 PM »
Nino how did you get the ball return so shiny? Was it buffed on grinder?

J.D.
There is no law against having fun just yet (but I am sure they are busy are drafting one!)

Offline Strangeways

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #16 on: July 22, 2010, 08:02:47 PM »
Nino how did you get the ball return so shiny? Was it buffed on grinder?

J.D.

The section that the ball travels is buffed = less resistance. Smaller parts go into the tumbler. The vertical guides were hand polished with Brasso and a green scotchbrite, then with a Brasso and a rag
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Offline Strangeways

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #17 on: July 24, 2010, 09:22:49 PM »

Cabinet repairs

The headbox top was in bad shape. The paint was flaking and it just looked like it needed some work. The rest of the cabinet was in very good shape, and I didn't want to neglect the top of the head,  even though it is not visible. The backglass surround also needed a bit of work. After cleaning the head, I decided to start. Here's the damage ;








First, I sand off the old paint and start to even the wood out - Just some 100 Grit to start off, 180 Grit and then 360 Grit. Mask off the area and cover up with newspaper.





Prime the area to be painted. First a thin coat. Sand with 360 (lightly) and then a thicker coat. Lightly sand with 600 wet/Dry.





Then I used a "White Knight" brand of paint for the top. First a light coat, and then a heavier coat - no sanding in between. It LOOKS a lot darker and glossier than the factory. It is still acceptable for a part of the machine that is never seen !





Inside the Cabinet


Completely cleaned and allowed to dry. All the parts are stripped off and indivdually washed, cleaned, tumbled and buffed. At the end of this process, parts are reassembled like a jigsaw puzzle. The lock down bar assembly is treated with Ranex and a wire brush is used to remove all corrosion. I then use green scotchbrite and Brasso to shine up the assembly. It takes a bit of time and work - but it is worth it !


Even the smallest detail - like the yellow plastic sheaths on the ground straps are cleaned and refitted














Chime assemblies are rebuilt. Some of the coils were not present on the machine so I ordered replacements.





So far, so good !



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Offline Steve2010

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #18 on: July 24, 2010, 09:46:21 PM »
Lots of hours there!  Very meticulous, but the results speak for themselves.  By the way Nino, what method do you usually use to apply the paint on cabinets/headboxes?

Offline Strangeways

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #19 on: July 24, 2010, 09:58:11 PM »
Lots of hours there!  Very meticulous, but the results speak for themselves.  By the way Nino, what method do you usually use to apply the paint on cabinets/headboxes?

If it is only minor work, like this machine - I match the color as close as possible with a can of "White Knight" from bunnings. If the area affected is the front or side(s), then I repaint the cabinet using a more professional method such as spray gun and compressor (my Dad still has a professional setup). I'll be doing a few cabinets in the near future - especially when the weather imrpoves.
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Offline Strangeways

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #20 on: July 27, 2010, 04:36:37 PM »

One of the MANY things I like about restoration work, is that you are "tied down" to repetitive work. There's cleaning, polishing, painting, installation of new parts, testing etc etc. I really enjoy the board repairs. In fact, years ago, I used to buy Bally / Stern MPU boards riddled with corrosion - just for the "challenge". Over the years, only ONE board has me stumped (to this day) !

All the boards in this machines needed rework. While I wait for parts, I strip the boards.

Here's the thread on the rebuild of the Power Supply

http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1557.0

Here's the thread on the rebuild of a Solenoid Driver Board

http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=158.0

Here's the thread on an MPU rebuild (Stern -200 board)

http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=2343.0


The strikes and spares had a typically "tired" power supply that looked like this ;








By following the same process from the rebuild thread, I have a working a tested Power Supply





All displays are tested and repaired if necessary. Solenoid driver is upgraded, Lamp Driver is repaired where necessary. The first test is with my trusty Altek board. This eliminates any errors that may be present on the original MPU. I almost ALWAYS test with the Altek first. As the "self test" does not really test the PIA outputs etc.

Note - I ALWAYS replace the 5V ripple capacitor C23. I notice many eBay auctions where copious amounts of time is spent on the cosmetics of the machine and the electronics is appalling. It takes no longer than 5 minutes to replace this cap. The bottom line is that a true restoration involves ALL aspects of the machine - not just the "eye candy". The connectors are replaced in the wiring loom for the power supply and this machine booted perfectly - first time - no "chasing my tail" - it is all rebuilt.




The Apron

Well it was missing ! Ken (Skybeaux) kindly GAVE me one to install in this game (thanks again, Ken). I removed the paint, primed and then topcoated using "Appliance white" White Knight paint. Came out really well. I made the apro decals myself, as the ones on eBay were (are) the wrong shade of yellow.

A test run on the playfield which is dropped into the machine





New parts (everything) are installed into the game. I bought some "almost NOS" plastics from eBay, and then made a complete set from all the good parts.





Plastics are installed ;








Decals are installed on the apron. The camera distorts the color slightly - it is a bit darker and fuller.





Instruction cards really finish the apron off nicely !





Add a spinner decal and the playfield is done !





 $#$


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Offline goodolddays

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #21 on: July 27, 2010, 07:59:52 PM »
Wow . How good does that look . Excellent work as usual Nino.  ^^^
One day I might pay as much attention to detail as you .
Cheers
Dave
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Offline ktm450

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #22 on: July 27, 2010, 08:20:35 PM »
Stunning results mate  ^^^

Offline faza

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #23 on: July 27, 2010, 08:22:42 PM »
Looks brilliant playfield came up fantastic

Offline el_timbo86

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #24 on: July 27, 2010, 08:25:35 PM »
Looks brilliant playfield came up fantastic

+1 Playfield looks sweet!

Great result Nino!!  #*#

el_timbo

Offline ddstoys

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #25 on: July 27, 2010, 08:56:46 PM »
Another one well done Nino specially love the photo of the lockbar mech looks clean as

Offline pinnies4me

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #26 on: July 27, 2010, 09:09:25 PM »
Mintier than factory mate, great job as always.
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Offline Strangeways

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #27 on: July 27, 2010, 09:28:39 PM »

Thanks for the kind words, peeps. "Realtime" resto starting soon. I can only "drag" this resto on for "so long"  #@#

I was lucky with the playfield. It was already in excellent condition - which is always a bomus and it makes the results so much better !
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Offline Steve2010

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #28 on: July 28, 2010, 01:49:22 AM »
Nino, sensational result!  By the way, where would you recommend buying the Alltek MPUs ... directly from Alltek, or elsewhere?

Offline Mr Pinbologist

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Re: Bally Strikes and Spares Restore
« Reply #29 on: July 28, 2010, 09:02:15 AM »
jeezus thats a SWEET lookn playfield!! and nice job done on the apron ^^^ ^^^ ^^^

did you use waterslide decal paper or adhesive backed paper??