Zaccaria Earth wind and fire

[Retropin]

There are 3 fuses under the PF.. all of which are 3A.

Im guessing here that the one that keeps blowing is due to your burnt out coil... this may have gone short. You need to disconnect the wires from the burnt out coil.... do not join them all together. There will be 2 together.. tape these up, this is your power line. The single wire is your grounding.. tape this seperately.
Hopefully your fuse should stop blowing now. If not we have a short elsewhere

[infinite1977]

Where is the 3rd fuse? I have dis connected coil as suggested and I am no longer blowing fuses
I am also testing voltges on coils and this is what I get
Knocker :38v
slingshots: 0.4v
Flippers:    0.4v
Pop bumpers: 38v
Ball eject: 0.4v
Drop targets: 0.4v

So now back to my original problem, no ball eject, slingshots, or drop targets. Apart from that machine plays fine.
Thanks for your help so far, I am learning heaps. Hopefully we can get to the problem.

[infinite1977]

Ok, retro, you are a Legend. i did not connect the 2 wires that I took off from the coil correctly, which is why the other coils were not working. I joined them together as suggested and they all now work, so all I need to do now is replace the burnt coil and the machine is fully working. Thank you so much for your help, and sorry if I drained you, but I definitely learnt something along the way.

[Retropin]

Infinite,

Glad its all sorted.. and yep, you disconnected the power line to the coils after the faulty one.
What size is the burnt out coil? Ill see if i can point you in the direction of a replacement.. you dont necessarily have to use Zaccaria coils

[infinite1977]

The model number is as follows:
(red coil) D40 S.1200

Is that enough to go on?

[infinite1977]

I was thinking in the mean time I take the coil from the credit knocker as it is the same value. Can I just disconnect the wires from that?

[Retropin]

I was thinking in the mean time I take the coil from the credit knocker as it is the same value. Can I just disconnect the wires from that?

LOL- this is the main reason why credit knocker coils are missing!

Yes.. go ahead and swap it out, just do the same to the wires as you did before.

You can replace the coil with a Williams 26 - 1200

Greg at RTBB will look after you as he does me

heres the link

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=170_61_179&products_id=402&osCsid=3915f909e13d42974c1d145fc29fa8cd

[infinite1977]

Ok, have another issue with this Zac machine. I replaced the coil for the centre kick hole, but it does not seem to activate. I have made sure that power is going to the coil, and when I test with multi meter I am getting 38v. Any ideas?
Everything else works perfectly.

[Boots]

Ok, have another issue with this Zac machine. I replaced the coil for the centre kick hole, but it does not seem to activate. I have made sure that power is going to the coil, and when I test with multi meter I am getting 38v. Any ideas?
Everything else works perfectly.

I am assuming that is the coil that was burnt out?
If it was then you need to check the complete ground path of that coil.
Coils burnt out when they lock on either from a bad driver transistor or bad pre-driver ic.
Check the driver transistor for that coil and if that is ok you may have to get out the drawings and trace it back to the IC that runs the transistor.
Not familiar with Zac's but they all work basically the same.
On my Timewarp Will sys3, the ball eject was burnt out from being locked on when I got it, but that also took out the IC that runs the driver, and when I got it going, the coil would not fire, I had to replace the IC and away it went.

[infinite1977]

Thanks for the advice. I will try and get a copy of the schematics.

[Retropin]

First of all check the transistors that drive the coils.. these are Q1 through to Q24 on the bottom right of the driver board.
Transistors are a BD649 - Jaycar carry these or an alternative.
If the transistor is burnt out, it should be obvious to spot... once burnt out like you had they tend to fry. The resistor next to it will more than likely be fried also these are a 390 Ohm 1/4 W but its better to use a 1/2W.
Not all the transistors are used and its possible to pinch a spare and swap.. but youll need game specific diagram to find out which is which.

If replacing the transistor doesnt work, then it will also be IC 17 through to IC20 - One of these will be associated to your transistor... once again.. youll need game specific diagrams to ascertain exactly which. Or you can test them yourself
The IC's are 7407 buffer chips... real easy to test and sold everywhere... make sure you use a straight 7407 .. not the HC or LS version... these are an input in and then straight output... so what goes in then comes out..

[beaky]

ok who needs the EWF schematic?
p.m. me with your email address and i will send it to you.

All the caps & bridges on this machine where replaced on the power supply and all voltages where present & correct on test bench.
cpu board had a remote battery holder fitted.

I am glad you have it firing up now.
I should have got you to send the driver board up as well so i could have checked it over. 

[infinite1977]

I have sent you a PM.

[infinite1977]

Yeah, I think I will send the other board up. There seems to be some burn marks around the driver transistor, so I am banking on that being the issue.

P.S The work done on previous boards from Beaky, was top notch. Highly recommend if anyone needs any work done.

[beaky]

pm received & one sent back.
just make sure all your lighting circuits are also working correctly.