playfield insert rollover plugs

[studley67]

i received my new playfield today $#$rollover insert apeared to be solid so i contact cpr.seems it is in 2 parts the insert and a plug.

To remove the plug, flip the playfield over and take a small screwdriver and "pop" each of the fingers forward, one at a time.  Keep your hand over the insert on the front to prevent pushing the whole insert out of the wood.  It's glued in well, but just for safety.  Each finger will "pop" out of its firm position.  Do all the fingers.  Then push the center round stem and the whole plug will come out of the front of the star insert.

This is all done from the backside.

well the whole insert came out,shit i think.but i then managed to remove plug.see photo..

[studley67]

i now need to reglue insert and clearcoat as this was purched as a second,no clear.here is kevins instuctions.very helpfull.

Glue it back in with 2-part epoxy.  Don't use anything but epoxy.

Clearcoat with DuPont or PPG clear.  The 4-to-1 ratio kinds.  Use fast hardener.  (not medium or slow hardener)

Apply with HVLP gun and at least a 30 gallon compressor.  Set gun to full-forward (no side jets), and spray with fairly low coarse pressure (like a spraypaint can that never ends).  I use about 8-12 psi at the inlet of the gun.

DAY 1:
Wipe entire playfield with a tack rag.  (a clearcoater's sticky cloth)
First coat is just a mild wet coat.  Get everything wet and shiny.  But near zero thickness.
Allow to harden for 2 days.

DAY 2:
Clear all dust with tack rag.
Second coat is a "pool coat" where you form a standing thick and shiny coat as you go.  The end result is a flat "lake" of clear that looks like a glasstop.
Allow to harden for 2 days.

DAY 3:
Clear all dust with tack rag.
Third coat is another "pool coat" as above.
Allow to harden for 4 days.

DAY 4:
Orbital sand the entire surface with 400 grit disc.  It will go white (cocaine powder) and don't fear hitting the artwork.  Get it all smooth and perfect.
Wipe off with naptha (camp stove fuel) and a cotton cloth or old T-shirt.  Use several cloths and get it clean.
Allow to dry for 20 minutes.
Clear all dust with tack rag.
Spray final "pool coat" - make a nice thick glasstop lake on top.  This is your final look - so spritz out any bubbles or bumps before carrying it to where it will rest to cure.
It is crucial that the final resting place is AWAY from where you just sprayed it.  If not, fog from the air will come down and land on the topcoat and make it dull.
The final resting place must be level as possible.  This allows the clear to stay flat and level.
The way it looks when you rest it is basically the way it will look when done.  So be happy with how it looks.
Allow to harden for 4-5 hours.
Take it to a warm place in the house and let it sit flat for a week.

You are done.

If you find you allowed too many bumps or bubbles, then repeat Day 4.


Kevin

[MartyJ]

Thanks for sharing that Damien.

Good of Kevin to be so helpful.  Interesting he recommends a fast hardener rather than medium.

Are you going to give it a crack yourself?  If so please post some pics.

I find the best way to get the glass finish (once cured) is the 3M perfect it kit.  Will set you back around $350 or thereabouts but worth it.

[studley67]

i plan to do it my self when i have built up confidence,i have plenty of practice pf-s.please elaberate on the 3m product,i have not heard of it.

[MartyJ]

i plan to do it my self when i have built up confidence,i have plenty of practice pf-s.please elaberate on the 3m product,i have not heard of it.

http://www.classicplayfields.com/perfection.html

The kit can be purchased from your local Ford showroom (in the parts depot) - weird that they sell it but hard to come by in Aus.

I have the exact same buffer (not cheap) and I've got the small orbital sander (air) which the wet pads use.

All up you're looking around the $1000.00 mark for the full kit....Hard to justify for 1 playfield, but I'm averaging a couple a month at the moment so works out OK.

[Strangeways]

What playfield was it, Damien ?

I have a couple of seconds playfields from CPR, great value for small production issues that are unseen ! Kevin and the crew are very helpful with tips etc for their products.

[studley67]

i new you would ask.78 playboy

[Strangeways]

i new you would ask.78 playboy

I'm restoring mine within the next 6 months - with a CPR playfield and plastics set 

[studley67]

i still need a cab stensil kit,but i cant remember who sells them

[tonyt]

http://www.pinballpal.com/products/stencil/#Playboy

[studley67]

thanks but they want $46 delivery

[mildflame]

thanks but they want $46 delivery

Like neno said "Take it "pin by pin" - "day by day"  yes

The moment you stop enjoying them - its time to find another hobby. You are in a position many would envy. It should not overwhelm you. You should feel safe with the knowledge that you have 10 challenges ahead of you. There's just not enough hours in the day to be working on them. You need a system to keep your thoughts and priorities right.

Instead of working on them for the rest of the week - PLAY the working games.

It's not "work" - it's FUN !

Edit - if 10 pins leads to depression, then I'm a permanent resident of the pinball funny farm !"

So i'm guessing you wanna get playboy 100% of everything done first? lol

(i just started swinger! lol) Your machines your rules

[studley67]

swinger is first in the que

[mildflame]

swinger is first in the que

[Strangeways]

swinger is first in the que

The important thing is you "have" a queue. Concentrate on ONE machine at a time. While you wait for parts, start the next game. It is a simple cylcle !