Stern Galaxy solonoids not quite right

[deep six]

Hi All
Attacked the Galaxy today with new vigour, when  I say attacked I don't mean I abused it, at least not physically anyway.
Armed with new information gleaned from my research I removed the backglass, powered it up and watched the LED on the main board as it booted up. It flashed 7 times then went out which was most gratifying.
I opened the front door and pushed the diagnostics button and watched as it marched though. Noted the lights came on, sound board sounded, display counted up, but no solenoids pulsed on and off.
When I first got the machine I noted the solenoid that kicks the ball into the Shute didn't function so I suspected a bad coil. But now looking at it closer it seems none of the solenoids are working. Oh, correct that, the two pop bumpers give a very lethargic kick when the ball hits them so they are working but only just.
I did disconnect the loom to the solenoid driver board and re-plug it, also noted some corrosion on the pins but not exactly sure where the problem lies.
On a side note also found some corrosion on the Main board, in the past someone has fitted a remote battery pack but not sure if the corrosion is a historical thing or only just new, whatever the case its not good so considering pulling the board out and giving it the old vinegar/water  treatment. Just a little bit scared of doing damage in the cleaning process.
Any tips on my solenoid issue????

Cheers

Ric

[deep six]

Looking at the rectifier board makes me wonder how the machine is actually working at all. I did note previously this board looked a bit sad but on closer inspection it is a nightmare, and I only have a basic understanding of electronics so a nightmare is probably an understatement.
I noted that Homepin does a replacement main board, wonder if he is doing a rectifier board also, looks like I need a new one.

[Boots]

Looking at the rectifier board makes me wonder how the machine is actually working at all. I did note previously this board looked a bit sad but on closer inspection it is a nightmare, and I only have a basic understanding of electronics so a nightmare is probably an understatement.
I noted that Homepin does a replacement main board, wonder if he is doing a rectifier board also, looks like I need a new one.

There are plenty of threads on how to rebuild this board, or use the pinrepair guides.

http://users.esc.net.au/~boots/Pinball_Guides/default.html

Have a go, all parts are readily available.

[studley67]

check the fuse under and attatched  to the playfield

[Strangeways]

That's just horrible !

I wrote a guide on rebuilding the Sterm Power Board here ;

http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=1557.0

BR2 is responsible for the 11.9 VDC on thest point 3.

The solenoid Voltage is sourced through the 4 Diodes - TP5 should measure 43 VDC

Faulty or corroded connector / pins and poor grounding are the common source of issues for these games.

If you don't want to rebuild the board, you can buy EXCELLENT replacements ;

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_86&products_id=1128

I've used this board a few times and it an excellent replacement.

[deep six]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the input, I suppose I really should try and repair this myself, after all I have nothing to lose, if it doesn't work I can always buy a new one.
Thanks for the link to your article nino, one thing that troubles me though you say these boards can take from 3 to 10 hours to repair, and thats for someone like you who actually knows what they are doing.  I don't know if I will live long enough to finish mine.

[Strangeways]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the input, I suppose I really should try and repair this myself, after all I have nothing to lose, if it doesn't work I can always buy a new one.
Thanks for the link to your article nino, one thing that troubles me though you say these boards can take from 3 to 10 hours to repair, and thats for someone like you who actually knows what they are doing.  I don't know if I will live long enough to finish mine.

If you are hesitant, you can always order the replacement board. either way, the connectors have to be replaced.

A "quick fix" would be to sand the connectors on the boards (Power board and solenoid driver). This MAY buy you some time until you have the confidence to replace the connectors and solder in the replacement board or repair the board itself.

I work at my pace, so 3 - 10 hours can be anywhere in between - but it also depends on the condition of the board.

[deep six]

Thanks Nino
Still tossing up whether to buy a new board or try and fix mine. (or both).
Just realised a lot of the wires which are supposed to be contained within a plug are soldered directly to the pins. Probably just a matter of buying some new plugs and fitting new female ends I guess.
one other thing I haven't been able to work out is how do you know what type of components to buy to replace the originals, I have searched for some sort of list but so far it escapes me, looked at the schematic that came with the machine but its not very enlightening, checked different posts of rebuilding this item but these seem to concentrate on fixes and fitting higher rated bits but can't see exactly what I should be getting.
I just fired Galaxy back up, looked at the fuses again, checked the fuse under the playfield and it looked to be dead, noted beside this fuse says only use 1 amp slo blow, I noted the fuse fitted was not slo blow. I turned the machine off. Found a 3/4 amp slo blow in my box of fuses and fitted that.
Powered it back up and noted a clunk as though some of the solonoids were resetting, however the machine hung at this point so I decided to take the fuse back out.
Took a few more attempts to make it boot up again. Tried wiggling some of the connectors on the rectifier board, remove and replace fuses, stand on one leg, that sort of thing.
Finally got it to boot up and go through self test.
I had been trying to work out what the thingys on the top of the rectifier board were that are labled "TP" then it came to me that somewhere I had seen mentioned "test Point". See, it does pay to study.
Got out the trusty multi meter and powered up the machine, couldn't decide where to put the black probe of the multi meter so ended up holding it on one of the bolts that secure the bridge.
Tested all points, here is what I got:
TP1- 5.7v
TP2 220v
TP3 12.81v
TP4 nothing....
TP5 44.4 v

Not quite sure what is going on with TP4, couldn't figure out if the test points were directly in line from the transformer or at a point after the fuses, figured the later is probably true as I got a reading of 22.3v from the bottom clip of the fuse holder which I'm assuming is the hot side.

Anyway, I think I am progressing, so far I have checked the test points, wiggled lots of wires, impressed my friends or anyone who would listen with my knowledge of pinball macines, and managed not to electrocute myself.
 

[Mr Pinbologist]

TP4 is your test point for the GI (general illumination) and should be about 7.3 volts AC.
Your other DC voltages you have tested are about right.

If you want to replace your connectors and housings, i get mine from Altronics in WA


http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?search=3.96mm+pitch&area=srch&option=and&Submit=SEARCH

Cheers.. Mitch

[Strangeways]

Change the Multimeter from DC to AC for TP4. You should get a reading.

I usually buy my connectors etc from GPE in the USA, but I'd also recommend RTBB ;

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_88_196_172&osCsid=1d7e5181486534988aa7b8146e340811

You will need a crimper, not sure if RTBB still carries them in stock at the moment, but here's the model ;

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-53.asp

1028-CT is the model I've been using for years.

[deep six]

Hi Nino

re; change my mm from ac to dc, I don't think mine has either(or both), it just has one range from 200m to 600v, guess it just knows whether you are checking AC or DC and gives you a reading regardless.
I definitely have no voltage at TP4 so something is up, however the cabinet lights are working so not sure whats up there.
In your post on rebuilding this board you mention you wash everything in hot water and nifti, do you mean the transformer as well??,
When you say you fit the bridge rectifiers and fit the heat sinks later, where are the heat sinks fitted, do they go under the bridge and between the board or do they sit on top of the bridge??
I tried to follow the link to http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index1.htm#ps but it is a broken link.
Still trying to work out a parts list, I see Jaycar has the 35a bridge rectifiers but their fuse clips look a bit budget, especially after reading your preferences for the low and high voltage fuses. I know I need resistors and diodes but I'm not sure what the values or part numbers are.

[Boots]

I tried to follow the link to http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index1.htm#ps but it is a broken link.

The pinrepair guides have been removed from that site, go here instead for an archived version:
http://users.esc.net.au/~boots/Pinball_Guides/default.html

[deep six]

Thanks Boots.
I knew there was another link somewhere, if only I had looked at the beginning of this thread I would have seen where you posted this earlier 
Cheers Mate

[Strangeways]

As per Boot's comments - Section 2c onwards is what you should look at.

I usually just clean the transformer with Nifti and  a rag - you can use a wire brush on the metal plates, but don't be too aggressive.

Heatsinks are mounted on the top of the BRs with some Heat Transfer Paste. A nut and bolt are used to fix the heatsink to the BR.

[deep six]

Hey Nino

After you buff all the metal parts, (transformer, plunger etc) do you coat them with anything to stop them from rusting??