Stern Galaxy solonoids not quite right

[Strangeways]

Hey Nino

After you buff all the metal parts, (transformer, plunger etc) do you coat them with anything to stop them from rusting??

Not really - not on the power board anyway. I usually strip parts that are rusted and if they are in poor condition, I re-plate them. Plungers are chrome plated, so they only need a buff.

[deep six]

Thanks nino.

Starting to get all the parts together to rebuild the rectifier board, got a tip from greg at RTBB that Big Daddy keeps a rebuild kit for this. But really wanted to do this on the weekend so took a list of the parts and proceeded to local Jaycar store with shopping list in hand.
List calls for the following.
4 x IN 4004 diode
3 x 35a Bridge rectifier
heat sink for above
1 x 60v MOV
1 x 25ohm resistor
1 x 600 ohm resistor
1 x 100k ohm resistor
10 x fuse clips
20 pin molex connector.

Got some of these parts at Jaycar but not all, and some parts weren't the same as on my list so could you please advise if these are suitable.
They didn't have 60v MOV
they supplied me with 1% .5 watt resistors, a 5 watt W/W 680 resistor, didn't have 100k ohm resistor, only had cheapish fuse clips, didn't have molex connectors.

Cheers

Ric

[Boots]

For the 25ohm resistor you need 5W wire wound not .5W
You can use 27ohm resistors, and grab a handful these can also be used on Williams driver boards.
Also grab a pack of 100 1N4004 diodes as you will find yourself using heaps of these for other boards or for using on your coils.
I think I did get hold of a 630ohm resistor for mine, but a 680 should be ok.

[deep six]

Hi Boots

Thanks for the input mate.
Think I am progressing backwards now. Went back to the store and handed over my .5w resistors in exchange for 5w, Guy at counter looked down on me with an expression that could only translate as "Bloody newbie"
Also realised I had got the wrong bridge rectifiers with the spade terminal so asked said counter person if I could exchange these for pin type legs, he says to me you can't get bridge rectifiers in 35amp with pin legs, yeah, chimed in counter person number 2, thats too much voltage for the pin legs to handle, thats why these spade terminal rectifiers are made. 
I know you can get these type of rectifiers but I didn't see the sense in arguing, so I got a refund on the rec's I already purchased and walked out kind of despondent.
I now have a bag of components that amount to some resistors, some heat sinks to go on the rectifiers I no longer have, a pack of diodes and some heat shrink.
I think I will just order the whole kit from big daddy and wait til it gets here.

[Homepin]

I have those rectifiers in stock if you need them BUT getting a full repair kit would certainly be a better option - at least you know you will have all the correct parts. PM me if you want some bridges.

[goodolddays]

Unfortunately Jaycar and staff aint what they used to be ..

[Mr Pinbologist]

I used to get the spade connector type bridges and solder paper clip wire to them to use in Bally/Stern power supply boards, id twist them around the legs of the bridge with pliers then solder them... worked well and nice n strong but was a pain to do, (took a lot of time) but now i buy the wire leg bridges.

http://au.element14.com

PSPA also has the wire lead bridges    http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/index.php?crn=1&rn=525&action=show_detail

[deep six]

Hi Guys

Thanks Homepin for the offfer, really appreciate your help, I'm torn between waiting for the parts to turn up and getting it done this weekend., not sure which way I will go yet,
Yep, can't get good service anymore goodolddays, your user name says it all.
Apologies to old mate jyebow who works at an outlet bearing the same name, fortunately different location though.

[Strangeways]

You do need the wire legs on the BRs. Our Sponsor carries them ;

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=544

I usually order in bulk from GPE - For both the Bally and Stern Power Supply boards - they stock everything. In a pinch, just grab the BRs from RTBB..

[Homepin]

RTBB also has the complete board ready assembled - and by the looks of your it may not be a bad idea...

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_86&products_id=1128

[goodolddays]

Yep .. with a board like your I'd be tempted to buy a replacement then have a go at fixing the original later .. if you fix the original then either you have a spare of sell it and get some $$ back towards the cost of your new board 

[Boots]

Hmmm $130 vs learning how to solder
Sure it might take a while to work through it but at the end of it you will have the confidence to tackle more difficult jobs.
Fixing Pinballs is 10% know how, 90% stubborn

Plenty of info from this forum or the guides to get you fixing anything.

Give a man a fish - feed him for a day
Teach a man to fish - feed him for a lifetime

[Mr Pinbologist]

Hmmm $130 vs learning how to solder
Sure it might take a while to work through it but at the end of it you will have the confidence to tackle more difficult jobs.
Fixing Pinballs is 10% know how, 90% stubborn

Plenty of info from this forum or the guides to get you fixing anything.

Give a man a fish - feed him for a day
Teach a man to fish - feed him for a lifetime

Couldn't have said it any better myself!!

sure its all well and good to buy a replacement board, but then there is no satisfaction of fixing the original board yourself. But then again i can be a REALLY STUBBORN bastard when i want to be, or if there is a point to prove to someone 

[Retropin]

As far as i know... Jaycar have never sold 35A BR's with wire legs... ive never been able to get them in the 10 years ive been going to the Woolloongabba branch... ive always used the spade type and bent them inwards to suit... you need to do the centre BR first or youll run into trouble later

[deep six]

Well. still progressing with fixing my old board, decided it would be good practice to work on this one before attempting the solonoid driver board or any others.
I have all the components stripped of the rectifier board, done a lot of desoldering, worn out two tips on my solder sucker, don't think I'm doing anything wrong, maybe the tip quality is not what it should be.
I got some de-soldering wick the other day, this stuff is great but having a small problem with it today.
When I first tried the de-soldering wick it heated up nice, you could see the flux becoming hot and melting, then the old solder would flow nicely to the braid and everything looked nice and clean
However the latest attempt with the wick seemed much less successful, I held the soldering iron on the braid, waited while the heat transferred to the solder and melted it, but the solder just refused to stick to the braid. The flux on the braid didn't seem to heat up and melt like it first did so I'm just wondering if I need to add some flux to the braid to make it work again, and if so what sort of flux should I use.
Any suggestions???