Author Topic: Hankin Cocktail Table Restoration  (Read 31965 times)

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Offline Strangeways

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Re: Hankin Cocktail Table Restoration
« on: March 18, 2012, 12:12:23 PM »

Be VERY VERY careful when removing the monitor and chassis. See that thick red wire with the suction cup on it ? If that is not grounded BEFORE removal, you risk a MASSIVE shock from the CRT tube. Most of these lose their charge after 24 hours, but some of the older ones retain their charge and can give you a nasty kick.

Be extremely careful and don't let kids near the monitor.

Don't touch the moveable rings on the neck of the monitor. They are adjustments for purity and alignment. These should be set at factory and NEVER changed. From your point of view, you only need to adjust the pots on the chassis - Red, Green, Blue, Brightness, Horizontal hold, H-position, Vertical size. The main screen brightness might also be on the EHT along with focus. Horizontal Width is usually a choke (inductor) - seldom needs to be adjusted. There are also adjustments on the neck board - these are Red bias, Green bias and blue bias. No need to touch these.

With monitors, you should try to adjust via the pots on the chassis when the monitor is warm (10 minutes after cold power on).

Monitor burn in can't be helped. You can improve the quality of the image slightly by rejuvenating the monitor (which I've had done on a few games) and it looks much better. It is an expensive option, and the repair guy needs the correct equipment to do this.

Your option in restoring the game depend on budget. Powdercoating, chroming etc etc..

Please KEEP the CRT monitor and don't go down the path of LCD. There's no depth and they looK CRAP !

Hope that helps !
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