Im glad you posted this advice Gavin.
I'm still VERY wary about giving advice about PF touchup/restoring.. as the methods i use are VERY different to what most other people use, and i dont consider myself an expert at this at all, to be totally honest. I just like the auto acrylics because i'm used to them, they work well for me, and id hate for some one to ruin a good PF if my tips didnt work for them. (i only replied because i was asked.. as were you).
Dont get me wrong, im always happy to help others out if i can.. i just want to be sure the advice i give is good 
Sorry Pinbologist if this sounds like a sermon - its not meant to be...its just general advice for anyone that is reading and not directed at anyone in particular..
But please mate - post on how you would tackle the wear shown in this thread, im really hoping that there will be something in the post that i can incorporate.....
Gav
Gav... No probs at all. Didnt sound like a sermon, just like more good advice.
Apart from using different paints/products to what you use, i dont think id really do anything much different to how you would repair the damage on this PF. On every PF i've done i've tried new or different techniques to repair worn areas. I have in the past always used water based artist acrylics (brushed on) to do this kind of work, the best part of this type of paint is that if you mess up with colour matching, it can be removed with a damp cloth if it hasnt been on the pf for too long, ie more than an hour or so. So (i think) its a very forgiving way to go for anyone starting out doing PF touchups. Acrylics dry DARKER, the main downside to this technique, so keep this in mind anyone reading this and wanting to try this for themselves, so mix the colour slightly lighter than the original colour you're replacing.
So for this small area, id pretty much do what you described.. ie fill and prime the wear spot, spray (or brush) the red, then do the black detail.. i use sharpie pens for this. (i did this on my Dracula PF). As for protecting it, i think mylar is definitely the easiest way, but your polyeurathane air brushed on method would be better. Again in the past i've had clear coats make sharpie ink bleed, maybe because the first coat was not sprayed on light enough. thats one reason why i've always used mylar instead of some kind of CC. An airbrush is definitely a good thing to have on hand for something like this. i should.ve gotten one yrs ago!
I hope i explained that clear enough!!
Cheers...Mitch
