A was just re-reading the thread. So this is the same problem you had originally that was fixed?, and now has started again. I would double check all switch tests again. Test every thing, making sure the correct switch is triggering against the manual. Also do the same for the Solenoid test.
Also have the connectors been redone or original.
To test your switches you could desolder and meter them to see if the open/close.
It may also be the switch matrix. You may find all the switches on the same
Matrix Line or row, are not working. Could
Be a bad solderjoint, broken and loose wire, connector.
Yes it's the same problem. I'll try not to make this to long winded but here's a bit of background. I brought the machine from another member who had also brought it to have it restored. He sent it off to be restored but then decided to sell it before it it reached the front of the restoration queue. He then sold it to me but hadn't really played it. So the machine came to me with these problems.
The first time around the fix was just to relocate some of the wire back onto different lugs. Obviously now I believe that the switches are wired correctly but the problem is back.
I haven't had this machine going for a while myself as I've just had all of the boards repaired as there were a lot of hacks on most of them. While the boards have been away I've replaced some of the molex connectors also.
I don't think the issue has anything to do with the boards and I've been over and over the connectors which I've replaced and I can't find anything wrong there either. I actually think this problem has been around long before the previous owner had the machine because both of these switches were wired incorrectly which I can only imagine was done while someone else was trying to problem solve the issue.
I've now replaced the switch in the captive hole but it hasn't made any difference. The coils all test and are working fine and the micro switch failed in test. From this I think I need to replace the micro switch and diode (also cross my fingers) and as suggested go back over the rest of the wiring and solder joints associated with the other captive hole switch.
Thanks for the advice Dan and Andrew.
