Fixed a buggered up plastic today.
On the left mid section of TOTAN there is a captive ball behind a solid ball.
There is a large plastic that runs along the left of the PF and then has a clear section connecting it to the blue /flame image that covers the captive ball area.
As this image will show you - mine had a few 'issues'
Note the blue/flame image is half missing.
So I decided to turn one plastic into 2 seperate pieces.
First I cut the clear section away from the yellow side with a jigsaw and a fine blade and glued the yellow pieces back together with a piece of mylar cut to shape under it as well
The top section of this PF plastic is held down in place by 2 screws close together when installed and not clearly visible, so the hairline 'crack' that shows up on it after glueing is not at all visible anyway as there is a ramp over it. I also cut a piece of 2mm perspex to the same shape as the top section of this ( down to the orange strip ) and installed it underneath so that if a stray ball flys toward it somehow ( doubtful - but you never know ) then it will hit the lower 'guard' plastic before it hts the pieces I re-glued on.
Note the little Space Invaders model cabinet pre-cuts used as 'rests'
Next up I printed an image of the blue / flame plastic that I got from Balls of Steel - beware , the scans there are not to size and do need modifying in Photoshop or similar - for this I had to add some of the blue section at the top and elongate it all just a little.
I printed a crappy copy for a size check and then used that to stick the the protective film on the perspex so I could cut my shape from it.
Once I was happy that all fitted I printed a quality shot and stuck it to the underside of the plastic.
I had to cut all the 'white' out as well as cut the small flames out and stick em on independently.
Turned out OK.
The blue is a pretty good match to the PF under it and there is no light under this so I was just able to print it on normal gloss card - bit dodgy , yes
, but it works fine for unlit PF plastics and is only the 2nd time I have done it that way. If there was direct light under this I would reverse print on clear transparent film and then white back it and do it properly.
