Nick and Marty,
Is there a game that you wouldnt clear coat ? meaning, are all DMD machines ok to be clearcoated ? or are there some that you shouldnt.
You mention T2 etc, was that game not clearcoated from factory ? and also, can u clearcoat over a playfield that has already been factory clearcoated, or only machines that were never clearcoated. ?
I think it would be of interest for alot of the guys on the forum, including me, who dont really know the full story about clearcoating. I only know it looks great, but from a practical point of view, i am a bit in the dark as to where n when u shld or shldnt clearcoat, and what pinball machines etc.
Can u shed some light/add any advice to some of us who r still deciding what to do. Thanks in advance. 
Sorry Brett, as far as I know ALL WMS/BLY games from T2 onwards were factory clearcoated. There were a handful of proto's done previously but certainly from then onwards were. The process was still being refined with the T2's..
In my opinion I would be confident to clearcoat a T2 onwards, as this was they way they were designed and intended. Yes - any game with existing clear is easier to clear, but certainly a lot of work still goes into the prep to avoid reactions. I would be hesitant to clear coat Sys11 games, as it really changes the way they play (ie speed). I only clear coat playfields which require repair and wouldn't do it just for the sake of making it shiny, as this process can be achieved with a TC kit or another process I use..
I would not clear an EM ever.
On some games where artwork needs to be touched up, I put down mylar only to protect the area from further wear and damaging the touchups. I think water based paints may wear / be wiped away and I am unsure as to whether wax would be sufficient to protect.
