There's a number of ways of attending to reset issues on Power Driver boards, but my theory applies to ANY driver board. Certainly I don't replace all the components for the sake of doing so (and no one is suggesting that), but I work on the fact that Electrolytic capacitors have a limited life span. The dielectric deteriorates over time which can result in a high leakage current, or the electrolyte will eventually dry away. All I'm doing it ensuring that the machine that has the driver board, will have a trouble free operation.
I've followed this procedure on over 50 boards, and never had a reported problem with resets. Having said that, I've never replaced J101 or J102. I replace J120 and J121 on every single board except one.
On Bally SS Driver boards, I won't even repair them until C23 is replaced. I've seen a couple of them have leakage all over the boards.
Replacing the capacitors, bridge rectifiers and J120 & J121 costs around $50 - $55. So it might not be affordable or applicable to everyone. But so far - not one of these games has ever reproduced the reset issue. For an extra $5 - replace J101 and J102 - sounds good to me !
