Wanted: Cosmic Princess schematics

[onetaste]

I'm willing to pay for a photocopy or scan or originals, whatever. I already have some Meteor schematics that I am working off in the meantime. Thx.

[onetaste]

I'm willing to pay for a photocopy or scan or originals, whatever. I already have some Meteor schematics that I am working off in the meantime. Thx.

I've decided that maybe LAI never made any schematics for Cosmic Princess, after all there were only 330 made and LAI maybe didn't have the ability to draw up a schematic. In the meantime, I have been using Hot Hand schematics off IPDB and these seem to be working very well. Probably the ideal alternative schematics for CP would be Stern Trident, since CP is a rip off of that game, the only real difference being the collect bonus saucer. Would you agree? Anyone seen schematics for Trident?

Cheers, onetaste. 

[studley67]

what is your issue with the cosmic princes?

[onetaste]

Hi Studley. The issue I had was there were a number of wires that were soldered directly onto rectifier pins that had fallen off and were lying loose, plus a bunch more hack jobs connecting wires up all over the place. Sinbad & I have cleaned all this up so it's working nicely now. However, the sound board is stuffed. I've decided to swap it for a mate's reconditioned one.

[Boots]

Hi Studley. The issue I had was there were a number of wires that were soldered directly onto rectifier pins that had fallen off and were lying loose, plus a bunch more hack jobs connecting wires up all over the place. Sinbad & I have cleaned all this up so it's working nicely now. However, the sound board is stuffed. I've decided to swap it for a mate's reconditioned one.

What exactly us going on with the sound card?
They are pretty basic you should be able to repair it unless it's broken in half.

[beaky]

Hi Studley. The issue I had was there were a number of wires that were soldered directly onto rectifier pins that had fallen off and were lying loose, plus a bunch more hack jobs connecting wires up all over the place. Sinbad & I have cleaned all this up so it's working nicely now. However, the sound board is stuffed. I've decided to swap it for a mate's reconditioned one.

What exactly us going on with the sound card?
They are pretty basic you should be able to repair it unless it's broken in half.

there is always epoxy 
seriously though i agree with boots

[Sinbad79]

Sound card is missing tones and according to onetaste the sound of the audible tones are not as he remembers they should be.
While probably easy to rebuild, we have both spent many hours rebuilding rectifier boards, display boards and repinning connectors, and for the sake of our time have decided to just replace it.

The only remaining issue is the right slingshot, which seems to fire whenever it feels like it or when the left spinner is hit...odd

[Sinbad79]

What exactly us going on with the sound card?
They are pretty basic you should be able to repair it unless it's broken in half.

Back on this again guys - looking for some pointers on where to look to try fix the issue.
Sound card is only giving 1 sound effect. Have replaced U1-U4 and U17 & U18.
Test Voltages are:
TP1 4.86V (4.86 on MPU and 4.93 on SDB)
TP2 0.19V (should be 2.6V)
TP3 2.54V
TP5 0.21V (should be 2.6V)
TP6 4.94V
TP7 14.5V (same as SDB)
Short on replacing all IC's and components on the board - any pointers on where to look to restore the correct voltages on TP2&5 would be welcomed.
Thanks!

[shaneo]

I've got one of these in the herd - happy to provide any details/pics/do testing etc which may assist.

[goodolddays]

Here is what looks to be a very handy guide on how these boards work .

http://www.techdose.com/projects/Stern-Pinball-SB100-Sound-Board/346/page1.html.

From page 4 of this link

"Test points TP2, TP3 and TP5 should be roughly 2.6v DC.. this is because the multivibrator output at these test points is a 50% duty cycle.  If your multimeter can measure frequency (Hz) you could also check the frequency here, but you would need to have an idea of what frequency to expect and they will vary depending on the game so easier to measure for 2.6v.  If the test points measure very low (say 100mv or something far less than 2.6v) then it's likely the LM324 IC or 4013 for that particular multivibrator circuit.  These test points should always read around 2.6v as long as the sound board is receiving power, regardless of whether you've started a game or not."

But , the above suggests the LM324 (U17) but you have already replaced that .

The symptoms you describe sound like only 1 of the 3 multivibrator circuits is working .
I am guessing that maybe 2 of the 3 4013 IC's are bad ??
 Really hard to see the diagram on the 1st page ? of the link but it looks like U8 and U9 ?? could be suspect ? 


I also notice in this link he mentions the frequency can be adjusted via the pot in each of the multivibrator circuits.

Actually handy for me to find this link because I recently acquired a Playboy which I think uses the same board .

Anyway, good luck with sorting it out

[Mr Pinbologist]

Actually handy for me to find this link because I recently acquired a Playboy which I think uses the same board .

The Stern soundboard is totally different to the Bally board Dave  

As Dave suggests though the fault could be one of the 4013 ICs causing the problems with this particular board.
I just had a look at the schematic for this board.. I'd say U9, judging from the voltages quoted for TP2 and TP5 in Sinbad79s post above, would be a good place to start.

[Retropin]

The SB100 is an overly complicated design for the simple beep tones it generates. Personally, I hate the damn thing and found it harder to diagnose and fix than I ever thought.
Good luck..

[studley67]

dont waste your time on the sb100,just send it to ken.my 2 cents