Shooter Lane Restoration Ideas

[Slash]

Just about finished touching up my playfield, just finishing the black outlines on things.  Then I will attempt to clear coat it.

Before that though I need to do something with the shooter lane.  No amount of cleaning, even a bit of sanding can seem to fix it.  Is it worth painting in the 2 tone wood grain type finish?  Clearing it as is will look a bit ordinary?  Any suggestions?




Regarding the blacks, any advice on how to do the outlines such as in the photo below.  Doing thin lines like this (about 1mm) is impossible freehand and I don't see it possible cutting frisket so fine either.  Are there any recommended paint pens that would have a thin enough point that I could use that wouldn't react to clearing after?  Any other ideas?

[Scotty]

Send it on to HRP 

[Slash]

I would if it was a game worthy of spending that sort of money.  But it's only a $600 game so a DIY approach is fine for me with this one.

[pinsanity]

If you want that shooter lane looking brand new, what I do is to sand down the entire lane itself to level with the deepest ball wear point.

I use sandpaper wrapped around a broom handle to maintain the shape and basically go back and forth, following the grain. Gradually downgrade your sandpaper to get it smooth and then clearcoat it.

Yes, your shooter lane ends up slightly wider/deeper than factory depending on the depth of the wear point but it doesn't detrimentally affect the ball travel in my experience as long as the shooter lane maintains the same factory shape.

[andypinboy]

Slash, how are you going with this resto? Up to clearcoat yet?

[Slash]

Just about, I started the black outlines on the playfield on the weekend (that was all that was left for the touchups), hope to finish those this coming weekend then clear coat time.

NFI how that will go but I'm happy to give it a crack and see what happens. 

[MartyJ]

Just about, I started the black outlines on the playfield on the weekend (that was all that was left for the touchups), hope to finish those this coming weekend then clear coat time.

NFI how that will go but I'm happy to give it a crack and see what happens. 

I would avoid using any type of 'sharpie' pen for the black lines if you are planning on 2K clearing.  Most will react and run.

[Slash]

Yeah that was my main concern too, anything like Sharpies etc will screw me with a clear coat. I am using a really fine brush and doing it free hand. It's working in the main, but really long thin lines are almost impossible to keep completely straight and completely consistent width.

[andypinboy]

It'll work out - & if not you'll still learn something. Did u decide to spray or brush the clear? Also those unipaint (oil-based) pens MIGHT work (someone else will know better) - they r tops 4 cab touch-ups & come in a heap of widths (suspect fine toclear over due to base - but can't guarantee).

[Slash]

It'll work out - & if not you'll still learn something. Did u decide to spray or brush the clear? Also those unipaint (oil-based) pens MIGHT work (someone else will know better) - they r tops 4 cab touch-ups & come in a heap of widths (suspect fine toclear over due to base - but can't guarantee).

I'm weighing up whether to buy a decent compressor for the clear coat (I already have a decent HVLP spray gun) but need something to power it (obviously), or whether to simply try brushing it on.  I was planning on giving that KBS Diamond Finish a go and I believe people have had reasonable outcomes with brushing it on given it's self levelling. 

Either way I just have to press on and get it done, I have sat on this project and hatched it off and on for ages now, just doing stuff every few weekends.  Time to get it finished!

[Brettski]

I use Posca paint pens for all my black key lines etc..
They are great, I use the .07mm tip and for straight lines but be careful, I use a ruler but make sure the curved side is down. A standard ruler has a completely flat side (back) and the front where the measures are has a curve, make sure this side is down or it will pull the ink. Then once you have done all your black lines let dry overnight then use a small artists paint brush and lightly brush all the black lines with clear to seal it before you apply the first coat. If you don't seal it first it can drag into the clear when brushing. May not happen if you spray but if using a foam brush etc this is a must. Doing it this way will give you great keylines. You can also use a circle stencil for the inserts but you must raise the plastic stencil slightly so as it is not touching the playfield, using a few blobs of hot glue on your circle stencil to give it some lift (only a mil or 2) will do the trick. Then lift the stencil straight up when finished, I use bluetack blobs on the top side of the circle stencil to lift it off with.

If using KBS Clear Coat try out these applicators from Bunnings, I have had a real win with these and recommend them highly, I cut in half for better control. Also thin to 30% for better leveling.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/shur-line-handi-painter-_p1670161

Good luck with it..

Cheers: Brettski... :)