Positioning flippers after rebuild?

[k00k]

I've just replaced the whole flipper assemblies on Getaway HSII, and all good everything working there, the flippers definitely have more power. However, I've noticed there are 2 metal indentations into the playfield surface, underneath the flipper ends, I presume this is something to do with exactly where the flippers are supposed to be positioned and then the whole flipper tightened underneath the playfield? Is the flipper supposed to be directly over these marks, trailing edge of the flipper on the back of these marks, leading edge on the front of these marks, or something like that? I've noticed my shots at the supercharger are now missing, whereas I used to hitt it pretty easily before. Hope someone can make sense of what I've written here, as I'm pretty sure my bottom flippers need re-positioning/aligning, or something. Thanks for any help, once again... 

[swampy76]

Hey mate. This is probably your best reference for finishing your flipper rebuild. It contains some good info on final alignment and positioning. Cheers. My HS2 has nice new snappy flippers, it makes a huge difference to gameplay (as it does on any machine....). Enjoy.

http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/index3.htm#flip

[Strangeways]

When adjusting and before tightening - place a toothpick or thin screwdriver in the metal collar (in the playfield). Rest the flipper (with the new rubber on the bat) on the toothpick. Let the pawl rest against it's rubber stopper and tighten - not fully - remove the toothpick and make sure the flipper does not move - then tighten. I usually tap the flipper shaft with a light hammer to create space between the flipper bat and the bushing. Then tighten fully.

Should make a "science" out of it hey  

[MrMaloo]

Hi kook . Whether the flipper goes above , level with, or below the small holes with the roll pins in them depends on the machine / manufacturer but a good rule is to align them so that the top edge of the flipper bat (with the flipper rubber on) is in alignment with the ball return lane . That way the ball will have a smooth transition as it rolls down the return lane onto the flipper .

Hope that makes sense .. 

[k00k]

Yeah, that link had a stack of info, exactly what I was after thanks. The toothpick method is good, but they reckon the straight edge method is better. Hope I'm allowed to copy and paste?

"Unfortunately the toothpick alignment is really not the proper way to align a flipper. Instead take a straight edge and use the lane guides to give the flipper bats a final position adjustment. The ball should roll off the guides and to the flipper bat in a straight line, which should be easy to see with the straight edge."

[Strangeways]

Yeah, that link had a stack of info, exactly what I was after thanks. The toothpick method is good, but they reckon the straight edge method is better. Hope I'm allowed to copy and paste?

"Unfortunately the toothpick alignment is really not the proper way to align a flipper. Instead take a straight edge and use the lane guides to give the flipper bats a final position adjustment. The ball should roll off the guides and to the flipper bat in a straight line, which should be easy to see with the straight edge."

"They think.." being the operative word !

I've done countless machines using the "toothpick" alignment method without complaint, so I will stick to that method. I'd suggest that it would be a good idea to try whichever method works for you. The fact they used the "toothpick" method from factory speaks volumes, or means that a lot of food got caught between the worker's teeth during assembly

 

[ktm450]

My understanding is that in the factory the roll pins were still protruding through the playfield until the flippers were adjusted on to them, then they were tapped down level, so as Nino stated, that is the 'factory setting'
Therefore using a toothpick in the roll pin is the correct method. Other than tapping the roll pin back up which could damage your PF.

[morrie]

When adjusting and before tightening - place a toothpick or thin screwdriver in the metal collar (in the playfield). Rest the flipper (with the new rubber on the bat) on the toothpick. Let the pawl rest against it's rubber stopper and tighten - not fully - remove the toothpick and make sure the flipper does not move - then tighten. I usually tap the flipper shaft with a light hammer to create space between the flipper bat and the bushing. Then tighten fully.

Should make a "science" out of it hey  

There is actually a tool (a piece of plastic) to create a space between the flipper bat and the bushing.
Its a piece of plastic the size of a popstick about 2mm thick with like a horse shoe shape on one end
You just slide between the bat and the bushing

[Strangeways]

When adjusting and before tightening - place a toothpick or thin screwdriver in the metal collar (in the playfield). Rest the flipper (with the new rubber on the bat) on the toothpick. Let the pawl rest against it's rubber stopper and tighten - not fully - remove the toothpick and make sure the flipper does not move - then tighten. I usually tap the flipper shaft with a light hammer to create space between the flipper bat and the bushing. Then tighten fully.

Should make a "science" out of it hey  

There is actually a tool (a piece of plastic) to create a space between the flipper bat and the bushing.
Its a piece of plastic the size of a popstick about 2mm thick with like a horse shoe shape on one end
You just slide between the bat and the bushing

Interesting - Where do I find this tool ? Would come in handy for all manufacturers 

[beaky]

When adjusting and before tightening - place a toothpick or thin screwdriver in the metal collar (in the playfield). Rest the flipper (with the new rubber on the bat) on the toothpick. Let the pawl rest against it's rubber stopper and tighten - not fully - remove the toothpick and make sure the flipper does not move - then tighten. I usually tap the flipper shaft with a light hammer to create space between the flipper bat and the bushing. Then tighten fully.

Should make a "science" out of it hey  

There is actually a tool (a piece of plastic) to create a space between the flipper bat and the bushing.
Its a piece of plastic the size of a popstick about 2mm thick with like a horse shoe shape on one end
You just slide between the bat and the bushing

Interesting - Where do I find this tool ? Would come in handy for all manufacturers 

i have searched everywhere for this tool but nobody seems to sell it.
I was lucky enough to get one in my pinbot and cave man was lucky to get one in his black knight 2000.(both came from mark.c)
if i find a place that sells them i will let you know.

[pinball god]

My understanding is that in the factory the roll pins were still protruding through the playfield until the flippers were adjusted on to them, then they were tapped down level, so as Nino stated, that is the 'factory setting'
Therefore using a toothpick in the roll pin is the correct method. Other than tapping the roll pin back up which could damage your PF.

+1 agree with KTM450 100%

[pinball god]

When adjusting and before tightening - place a toothpick or thin screwdriver in the metal collar (in the playfield). Rest the flipper (with the new rubber on the bat) on the toothpick. Let the pawl rest against it's rubber stopper and tighten - not fully - remove the toothpick and make sure the flipper does not move - then tighten. I usually tap the flipper shaft with a light hammer to create space between the flipper bat and the bushing. Then tighten fully.

Should make a "science" out of it hey  

There is actually a tool (a piece of plastic) to create a space between the flipper bat and the bushing.
Its a piece of plastic the size of a popstick about 2mm thick with like a horse shoe shape on one end
You just slide between the bat and the bushing

Interesting - Where do I find this tool ? Would come in handy for all manufacturers 

I have one, maybe a second one in my box of goodies. Think I bought them from Marco when trying to get as much in an order to offset the horrendous shipping charges.

[Pintoxicated]

Agree that the factory method is the 'toothpick' method and it applies for the vast majority of machines but I have had one or two machines where I wasn't happy with this setting and personally, and I stress personally, I found the machine played nicer using the straight edge method.  In the end it comes down to personal preference as well as the strength and efficiency of the flippers on that particular machine.  Trial and error until you find the sweet spot for your machine.