Author Topic: Wanted - Tips and recommended products for mylar removal  (Read 3766 times)

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Offline pinball god

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Do not use freeze spray on non-CC playfields. I did my T2 (diamond plate CC surface) and had no paint loss using freeze spray. I bought a cleopatra PF (no CC) to test various methods and freeze is very bad. Paint comes off all the time and mainly in little dots so your PF looks like an LCD screen with lots of dead pixels.

I tried heat and Shellite and had a little paint loss (I'm guessing Gavin may be right) and I did just heaps of shellite and slow peeling with probably the best result.

Freeze is great for DMD games as its quick but leaves all the glue.
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Offline 63wizz

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I used eucalyptus oil to remove the glue residue after the mylar was removed with the hair dryer method, eucalyptus oil removes the glue very easily, just rub oil on and leave for a few mins.then rub with a dry rag

next time i remove mylar i am going to try and pull the mylar and soak under the mylar with eucalyptus oil as i go.

ian  
« Last Edit: August 05, 2011, 05:42:51 PM by 63wizz »

Offline 48

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I go with Pinballgod.
My best results have been lifting an edge and using a crapload of Shellite.
One tip I found, after I have enough lift to hang onto a bit, I use cotton buds soaked in Shellite to rub on the lifting edge,
seems to get under easily.
My experiences are with late model SS machines.
Lets go Brandon!

Offline bossninja17

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Thanks everyone who contributed to this thread. I am about to remove what I thought was mylar and having read this thread, I think is is probably contact.
Wanted: GTB Aquarius backglass. Any playfield bits and backglasses from any EMs - nothing is junk to me.

Offline humpalot

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Been using the sun method for ages.

Nice bright sunny day mid to high 20's leave for 1/2hr, gently remove.  Depending on the thickness of the mylar and or condition of the playfield you might need to add a little heat from a hairdryer as well.