Stern Meteor upper flipper problem

[JRK1971]

Hi guys,
got a problem I can't sort with the Meteor upper flipper. Looking for some advice. Will try and keep it short as I tend to ramble on...

Stern Meteor upper right flipper
Problem: Too strong and also gets bounce (ie flipper seems to activate and oscilate from fully activate to off intermittantly, kinda like its struggling to keep activated). Coil is a replacement and is a A25-600 34-4000

With the "Too strong part" - I don't have a resistor in series with the upper coil; I have read there should be one, but the schematics im reading don't show one - do you know the size (ohms & watts) and how it is wired in (series/parallel, location)?

With the the bounce, I've tried filing the contacts on the bottom flipper and the top flipper, plus delaying the EOS switch on the upper flipper (no change). Im not sure about how the second set of contacts on the bottom flipper affect the top (the ones that are normally open).


Any advice would be greatly appreciated 

Regards John

Upper Flipper






Lower Flipper

[Ballywannabe]

the 25-600 is the right (weaker) coil.  The wiring for putting a resistor in to further reduce the power is (I hope!) attached - I would recommend it on Meteor to save damaging targets on the large bank.  The chattering could be two things.   The outer switch on the bottom not making good contact, or the hold wiring (thin wire) on the upper flipper coil is broken (or even a cold solder joint at the tab).

Hope this helps...

[JRK1971]

Ballywannabe, you are a legend...

I filed the contacts back to a nice even finish, putting in the 1ohm resistor let me have the contacts open later so no bounce anymore...

The top flipper power is spot on now (not too powerful). Im happy as a pig in doodoo 

Here is a shot of the resistor. Only issue i might get is a stress fracture with the resitor bouncing around, if that happens, I'll hard mount it on the back of the playfield.

Thanks again - I was trying to get less strength by opening the contacts earlier, but that was a no go. Gotta wonder why people remove these parts, makes it hard to fix afterwards. That schematic you have is 100%, much better than the ones from the IPDB (can't complain about free ones though). Im still wondering why the Meteor schematic didn't show the resistor