wpc, wpc-s power drivers boards

[pinball god]

I think the answer is no but would like confirmation please. Is there a difference between a wpc and wpc-s power driver pcb. I think the CPU's are different but not sure of the power driver. I have a spare from my tom and a guy with a project t2 would like to try it as his project is missing it.

[Strangeways]

Straight from the old Marvin guides ;

 Driver board.

    A-12697-1 (5763-12405-00): the driver board used from Funhouse to the middle production of Twilight Zone. It has a flipper enable relay on the board. Can be used on all WPC games from Funhouse to WhoDunnit (the most versatile non-WPC95 driver board, can be used in any WPC-89 or WPC-S game). On Fliptronic games (Addams Family and later), the flipper relay is ignored by the game's software.

    A-12697-3: Used starting mid-production of Twilight Zone. The flipper enable relay is not installed (since these games have Fliptronics boards, and no long need the relay). Can be used on Addams Family to WhoDunnit. Can *not* be used on Funhouse to Hurricane because of the lack of the flipper relay, which is needed in non-fliptronic games (games prior to Addams Family).

    A-12697-4: One of the solenoid fuses changef rom 3amp to 5 amp, removed the "line level circuitry" (around U6). WPC Schematic Manual 16-9834.2 details these changes on page 1 of the power driver board schematics. The specific components are R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R195, R200, F201, W1, W2, LED2, and LED3. Can be used on Addams Family to WhoDunnit (interchangable with the -3 revision). Only used on a one game (just WhoDunnit so it seems). Thanks Tony.

    A-20028 (5763-14525-06): WPC-95 only driver board. Can be used on Congo to Cactus Canyon only.

The first generation driver board A-12697-1 is the most versatile, and can be used on all non-WPC95 games.

To answer your question ;

TOM most likely will have the A-12697-3 - without the Flipper relay. But it could still have the flipper relay if it is not this board - and still work in ToM. The T2 will need a driver board with the Flipper Relay.

[pinball god]

Thanks Nino extremely helpful

[johnwartjr]

I've been modifying my spare -3 boards to work in a game that requires a -1. The parts only cost about $10 USD here in the states - so they might cost a little more if you had to import them (I imagine you could find them in your country pretty easily.... but I don't know the suppliers that are 'preferred', so I cannot be sure.

I wrote a blog post about the process. I've done a half dozen boards or so now this way.

http://blog.myhomegameroom.com/?p=220

Now, if you can't solder, this isn't much help, I understand.... but you may know somebody who can help.

[Homepin]

Excellent write up..

[Pinballer]

http://blog.myhomegameroom.com/?p=220

Can you please list the items/tools and where to buy for the eyelet repairs to circuit boards?

[DSB]

Can you please list the items/tools and where to buy for the eyelet repairs to circuit boards?

I used Circuit Medic eyelets and track repair to fix my driver board which looked like someone had used an iron bar as a soldering iron to remove the rectifiers and capacitors. The Australian distributer is Mektronics. They sell the full range of circuit medic products even though its not listed on their website http://www.mektronics.com.au/. I didn't buy the setting tools though as it was getting a bit expensive. I set and soldered them with my own contraption. I am happy how it turned out.

[beaky]

Some great info guys, well done

[johnwartjr]

I would deal through Mektronics because they are local to you, and surely less expensive.

I get mine from International Eyelets in California

http://www.intl-eyelets.com/

They took my order and shipped it quickly, but they had a minimum order and that was a bit disappointing at first, as I wasn't sure they'd work well for me. Now that they have, I've no problem ordering the minimum order again.

I am not using a traditional eyelet setting tool either. The dies are approx $200 USD per size. My results are not 'as nice' as they would be with the correct dies, but they are *functional*. The smaller ones for transistor / IC legs are more difficult to install and require a lot more 'care'.