TSPP - and it continues - but I wont go off my head this time ......yet.

[Wotto]

Hi all

This posting is about the  weakness of my MID RIGHT upper PF flipper on TSPP   - see the image below - and see what I have 'replaced'



I have so far replaced the coil ( suggested by Lloyd Olsen at SS Billiards ) , the coil sleeve, the plunger/linkage and the spring. I have actually tried various springs as well - JUST IN CASE one was too tight or the oppisite - too weak - in other words EVERY physical part has been replaced ( apart from the pawl )

Considering that this flipper has / requires no EOS switch AND the fact that it moves VERY VERY VERY freely when you lift the playfield and test it manually- can anyone think of ANY other thing this may be?

In gameplay it HARDLY moves the ball and this flipper is required for 2 MAJOR shots in this game.

[Retropin]

Ok... coil has correct voltage? its not low etc due to a dry solder joint on the power train?
If it acts as it should when the PF is up but not when its down, it suggests that it is binding somewhere.. possibly on the PF or maybe the flipper bush is worn and the flipper is sitting too low and creating friction when the PF is down?

[pinnies4me]

I did have an issue once that was similar when I did a playfield swap - the holes for the bush were not quite correctly dimpled, so when  the screws were tight, it deformed the bush a tiny amount as it was pushed against the hole edge just enough - it was enough to rob all of the power but "felt" to the touch when manually moving quite normal. I worked it out after removing the screws and it was free moving.

[Homepin]

Possibly an electronic fault on the control board??

[Wotto]

Hi guys- thanks all so far ....


Gav - the entire assembly moves freely regardless whether the PF is up or down in place where it should be. What is this 'POWER TRAIN' you speak of Mr Cryptic  Are you saying I should re-check my solder connections on the 2 x coil lugs 

Nick - thanks - will check that out - but it FEELS so free that I just cant see how it could change SO MUCH in gameplay compared to manual movements.

Homepin - I am unsure of that, and that's part of why I posted up here , to see if someone might know that as well



.

[pinmadd]

Check that 50volts is at coil, check flipper button contacts/clean   

[Pinballer]

If the flipper was working well and has just stopped working properly, without any work being done on the game, like the flipper coil being replaced etc, then follow these steps....

Yes, as previously mentioned, the first thing to do is test for 50V at the flipper coil.  On the Upper right flipper, put the red lead of your multimeter on the BLUE/YELLOW wire that is connected to the coil (and your black lead on ground, any metal grounded rail in your game), you should read >50V DC.  If you do, then the power train or power wiring to the coil is ok. 

There is a quick way to check if the power coming to the coil, the coil and the assembly is in good working order.  Go into the back box to the IO Power Driver Board and disconnect the plug at position J9.  Then grab a test lead with an alligator clip on each and connect one end to a metal/grounded point in the game.  With the game on (most likely with a game started and the playfield in the up positon) momentarily touch the other end of the test lead on the BLUE/BLACK wire connected at the flipper coil.  If the flipper flips, strong snap action as it should, then the fault most likely lies on the IO Power Driver Board.  I'd then look at replacing Q14 and see if that makes any difference.  The circuit is shown on Page 106 of the manual.

[Strangeways]

Check the flipper switch itself ?

[faza]

Could you temporarily jumper the coil wires to another flipper coil at least that will confirm whether its electrical or mechanical

[Wotto]

Thanks guys for the detailed replies - will check that stuff tomorrow 

[Retropin]

If its mechanically sound then you either have not enough power TO the coil or your ground is not clean which would not give you a 50V drop. Test power to the coil and also test that ground is actually ground and not floating... you need this to be 0V or very close so you get a 50V voltage difference across the coil.. if its above this then you wont have enough potential difference and will lose coil power. If the coil potential is sunk via a transistor.. then this should be your first place to look.. either the transistor itself, grounding from the Emitter or saturation at Base