Author Topic: Baywatch  (Read 4260 times)

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Offline beaky

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #30 on: July 24, 2013, 09:41:34 PM »
Don't know why but I'm getting 10.2v at the 5v plug to the dmd? Any ideas ?
is that at the dmd driver board that sits behind the display or the dmd itself?
also do a voltage test across the 5v and gnd test points on the power supply
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #31 on: July 24, 2013, 09:50:01 PM »
Don't know why but I'm getting 10.2v at the 5v plug to the dmd? Any ideas ?
is that at the dmd driver board that sits behind the display or the dmd itself?
also do a voltage test across the 5v and gnd test points on the power supply
Yes at the 5v plug at the dmd. Getting 10.2 at the test point on the board @5v and 22.7 @ the 12v point?

Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #32 on: July 24, 2013, 09:54:04 PM »
if you want me to check on mine, post a few photos of where you are testing and I can do those and post here tomorrow
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #33 on: July 24, 2013, 10:02:28 PM »
plug to dmd driver
5v test point
12v test point

Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #34 on: July 24, 2013, 10:16:42 PM »
Sounds like the power supply to the power board is incorrect, I think the bridge rectifier no 3 supplies power may need to be tested.

The photos helped and I know that I was getting 5.2 at the 5v test point and about 12.5 at 12v test point.
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #35 on: July 24, 2013, 10:21:26 PM »
Sounds like the power supply to the power board is incorrect, I think the bridge rectifier no 3 supplies power may need to be tested.

The photos helped and I know that I was getting 5.2 at the 5v test point and about 12.5 at 12v test point.
where can I get one of those bridge rectifiers? Does the rectifier need to be earthed to the backbox as mine is just hanging there. Might be a clue as to it playing up in the past? Thanks for your help I'd really like to try and nut this out.

Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #36 on: July 24, 2013, 10:27:55 PM »
Jaycar has the bridge rectifier for about $5, will look up the part number tomorrow morning and check the schematics, but if beaky chimes in I am sure he could identify the issue.
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Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #37 on: July 24, 2013, 11:09:56 PM »
the DB1 bridge is like the one in the attachment, also refer to the schematic of the specs
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Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #38 on: July 24, 2013, 11:15:54 PM »
I am not 100% sure what the bridge for BR1,2 and 3 is but probably is the same as DB! but maybe contact Beaky to check.

see below for the identification of the different parts and what they do

the frankenstein schematics are pretty much the same as the baywatch just these had clearer detail

also check the link for testing a bridge rectifier to determine if there is a short or not

utoplay=1&rel=0
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Offline beaky

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #39 on: July 25, 2013, 12:31:23 AM »
you should have it screwed to the back box not just floating,
i am pretty sure you have the multi meter set to the wrong position.
does the symbol where you have the multimeter set to look like this

i might be mistaken but from what i can make out you have it set to AC.
forgive me if i am wrong but it looks like the range you have it set to only has 2 selections which is usually the AC range
 
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 12:37:00 AM by beaky »
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #40 on: July 25, 2013, 08:43:41 AM »
you should have it screwed to the back box not just floating,
i am pretty sure you have the multi meter set to the wrong position.
does the symbol where you have the multimeter set to look like this

i might be mistaken but from what i can make out you have it set to AC.
forgive me if i am wrong but it looks like the range you have it set to only has 2 selections which is usually the AC range
 
yes you are right ill recheck tonight when I finish work. Thanks

Offline beaky

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #41 on: July 25, 2013, 11:12:05 AM »
no problems  ^^^
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #42 on: July 25, 2013, 08:14:56 PM »
Ok well after feeling like a knob for having the multimeter on ac I've retested the board and have 5.0v @ the 5v point & 4.9 @ the dmd & only 10.2 @ the 12v point. I've changed the bridge rectifier #3 and have the same readings. I have noticed that the fuse holder f5 looks a bit corroded so ill change that over next. Any other ideas? Where else should I check/test ? Thanks guys

Offline beaky

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #43 on: July 25, 2013, 08:53:22 PM »
10.2 is a little low.
check what voltage you have at the capacitor marked "for BR3 display" you should have around 12V
check what voltage you have at J4 red on pin 3, black on pin5 (Where there are no pins just solder pads) on you dmd driver board, you shouls have 5V. if you do have 5V This test will prove that the 5 volt connection at J1 is good an the dmd driver board is getting voltage to it.

Since you have had the machine have you ever had the dmd working properly?
If not then there may be a problem with the dmd or the dmd driver board.
If the machine boots and runs in attract mode, you have replaced the ribbon cables and ensured they are fitted correctly plus you have 12v at the dmd and 5 volts at the dmd driver board then you will need to test the dmd driver and dmd in another machine to work out which part has the fault
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 09:03:19 PM by beaky »
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Offline beaky

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #44 on: July 25, 2013, 09:06:24 PM »
needed to edit the first line but ran out of time again  ^&^
10.2 is a little low. is that at the 12V test point on the power supply?
this is not the same 12V that the dmd uses, it uses the 12v from BR3
check what voltage you have at the capacitor marked "for BR3 display" and at BR3 you should have around 12V
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 09:09:03 PM by beaky »
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