Author Topic: Baywatch  (Read 4327 times)

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Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #45 on: July 25, 2013, 09:38:24 PM »
Ok well after feeling like a knob for having the multimeter on ac I've retested the board and have 5.0v @ the 5v point & 4.9 @ the dmd & only 10.2 @ the 12v point. I've changed the bridge rectifier #3 and have the same readings. I have noticed that the fuse holder f5 looks a bit corroded so ill change that over next. Any other ideas? Where else should I check/test ? Thanks guys

don't worry it must be a baywatch thing I had a plug flipped and it didn't work so I felt the same, at least we learn something from it.

Check the fuse holders as well as Beaky found a cracked one on the power board so can play a small effect. Check the fuse holder near the BR3 as well that is linked to the display.
« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 09:40:44 PM by swinks »
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #46 on: July 25, 2013, 09:56:47 PM »
Now I've got 4.9v @ the driver board and 5.0 @ the dmd.
The pin has never worked since I've owned it. Got to love projects. The 10.2v was @ the 12v test point on the psu.

Offline beaky

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #47 on: July 26, 2013, 11:38:45 AM »
does the cpu still boot and do you still get the attract mode (insert lights turning on and off) or is the whole thing still dead?
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Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #48 on: July 26, 2013, 11:48:38 AM »
make sure to disconnect the display of it's 2 power leads to determine a start up and attract mode, sometimes if the display has a issue it will stop the machine going into a attract mode.

1. disconnect the power supply leads to display board and display and do a start up
2. try again with the leads plugged in
3. do step 3 but disconnect the ribbon cables from the display board and display

just try to determine if a weird issue and where it maybe
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #49 on: July 26, 2013, 12:54:40 PM »
does the cpu still boot and do you still get the attract mode (insert lights turning on and off) or is the whole thing still dead?
yes the CPU boots I have the correct led lights on the board and it goes into attract mode. With the old psu I wasn't getting attract mode just gi. I can enter the test/service mode but I'm blind due to no dmd. But with the old psu the dmd showed signs of life and once last night when I switched the game off the dmd flashed on for a second?  I really don't want to give up on the dmd till I can get the voltages correct. Is the plug that goes to the dmd (the one with 4 wires) supposed to have 12v? As I've only got 5.0v and 4.9 @ the driver board.

Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #50 on: July 26, 2013, 05:45:02 PM »
either tonight or tomorrow I will measure those voltages for you at the plugs with some photos to aid
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #51 on: July 26, 2013, 05:49:10 PM »
Changed db1 and now have a good 5v everywhere. But now have only 18.6v to the dmd where I need 24v. I've replaced br3 and have 18.6 there too. Thank you Breaky and swinks for all your help even though I've done things ass about I feel that I am getting there and with out you guys I'd be screwed.

Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #52 on: July 26, 2013, 07:01:16 PM »
Could the big rhs blue capacitor come into play for the voltage that is needed, have to check the wiring later to trace it again
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #53 on: July 26, 2013, 07:23:05 PM »
Could the big rhs blue capacitor come into play for the voltage that is needed, have to check the wiring later to trace it again
thanks mate

Offline beaky

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #54 on: July 26, 2013, 08:19:09 PM »
yes the plug going to the dmd should have 12 and 5
not all the dmds use the 5 volt but all use the 12v
the 2 center wires are GND and the out side wires are 12v and 5v
so black multi meter wire to one of the centre and red M meter wire to one of the out side wires will give you 5 or 12v dc

you should have 12v at BR3 and the cap for BR3 (as i have asked you to check before)
this is where the dmd gets it's 12v from
 
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #55 on: July 26, 2013, 10:04:58 PM »
Got 18v @ the cap for br3 and holds 18v all the way to the dmd. Don't I need 24v at the dmd?

Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #56 on: July 26, 2013, 10:43:52 PM »
Got 18v @ the cap for br3 and holds 18v all the way to the dmd. Don't I need 24v at the dmd?

Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #57 on: July 27, 2013, 02:13:37 PM »
Got 18v @ the cap for br3 and holds 18v all the way to the dmd. Don't I need 24v at the dmd?
No - 18volts on mine




was able to get some readings and photos so check wire placement just in case

photo 1 - BW display plugs
lhs plug is the dmd board which is a 5 volt supply
rhs plug is the dmd - red and black with red strip is 5 volt, black and blue is 18volt

photo 2 - BW Display lead
is the lead coming from the display rhs plug (note one wire changes colour - blue becomes a purple)

photo 3 - BW Display lead to BR3
other side of plug from photo 2, note the purple change

Note both black and black with red stripe are earths

photo 4 - BW BR3 and capacitor ?
a red and black from the display through the lead goes to the power supply board
a purple and black from the display through the leads goes to the BR3 and then another set of wires the same colour from the same connections go to the rhs blue capacitor - which measures 18volts
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Offline Blktgr74

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #58 on: July 27, 2013, 02:18:24 PM »
Ok thanks then I have the same voltages on my machine. Time to fine a baywatch locally and test the dmd.

Offline swinks

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Re: Baywatch
« Reply #59 on: July 27, 2013, 02:24:32 PM »
where are you located at
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