Baywatch - Suddenly went dead

[beaky]

The resistor sounds like it should be ok, it's hard to measure 0.12 ohms as it is a very low value.
On the 200 ohm setting touch your leads together and see what value you get I.e. 2 or 3 ohms, not sure exactly what you will get on your meter
Then measure the resistor and see what value you get.
The difference between the two readings will be the value of the resistor

I know you have already answered me swinks but i thought i would post it to help anyone else that needs to measure a low value resistor

[swinks]

yes to help others

the reading of just the leads was 0.4 and the resistor was 0.5 so difference is approx 0.1 which is close enough to say that a fair chance that it is ok.

thanks beaky.

[swinks]

I did a load test with a 89 globe directly to the grd and 5v test points to create a load and on the white resistor measured 4.89v on the lhs and 5.05v on the rhs with the dmd disconnected.

though after doing the globe test again tested the grd and 5v test point and get 4.83v and reading the following site, they are saying anything as low as 4.9v can be a problem....

http://smiley.tzo.com/pinball/backups/dataeast_repair_guide-index3.htm

"It operates best with logic +5 volts right at 5.0 volts! Any drop in voltage (to even 4.9 volts) can cause the display CPU to shut down or reset. As these games get older, the connectors fatique, and small amounts of resistance appear. Or the grounding strap going to the display board can become loose. These problems can cause the +5 volts fed to the display to drop enough to cause problems."


now I just don't know where to continue on....... any suggestions

though I should get my power cable upgrade from pinball life this week sometime

[beaky]

take a photo of wiring at the dmd driver board and the power supply for the +5volts (re use the previous photo of the power supply if nothing has been changed)

after looking at the wiring at the power supply picture you supplied before it looks like the wiring is incorrect but you said it just stopped working so i assume the wiring at the dmd driver end is also arse about? 

or did someone change something after it stopped working?
 

[swinks]

all wiring is the same since owning the machine so I am assuming some hacking and posibly cross overs, just didn't want to introduce new issues if it was working for all that time.

Will hopefully take some photos tonight.

Cheers

Jady

[beaky]

no problems
but  anyway 

[swinks]

yep  , a bit over it and a bit down, whole family is sick, even considering selling up all the pins

[Cow Corner]

yep   , a bit over it and a bit down, whole family is sick, even considering selling up all the pins

Cash in your IM while you can get top $$.
 

[swinks]

all I need is confirmation off someone with a operational Baywatch of what plugs are right and not right as if I put this updated power lead the power will be opposite to what is currently wired in.

Power Supply Board

CN1
1-purple
2-orange
3-orange
4-
5-
6-
7-
8-
9-
10-grey / green
11-grey
12-grey/white

CN2
1-
2-
3-black
4-
5-
6-black

CN3
1-
2-
3-
4-red
5-red
6-red/white
7-
8-
9-
10-

CN4
1-black
2-black
3-black
4-black
5-blue
6-blue
7-blue
8-blue
9-black
10-black
11-black
12-black

CN5
1-black x 2
2-
3-
4-
5-
6-red x 2
7-
8-
these wires are in correct as schematic says 5+ is at 1,3,4,5 and ground at 6,7,8 - THIS IS WHERE I REALLY NEED CONFIRMATION OF THE DMD CONTROLLER BOARD AND DMD DISPLAY

CN6
1-
2-
3-black
4-black
5-black
6-
7-grey
8-grey
9-grey
10-grey
11-
12-
13-grey/red
14-black/grey
15-

CN7
1-brown/red
2-
3-red
4-
5-

CN8
1-brown
2-yellow
3-green x 2
4-purple
5-
6-white/brown
7-white/yellow
8-white/green
9-white/purple

CN9
1-yellow
2-yellow
3-white/yellow
4-white/yellow

DMD Display Board

J1
1-red (goes to CN5)
2-
3-black (goes to CN5)
4-
5-


DMD Display

J7
1-blue
2-black
3-black/red
4-red

this actually has a junction plug and noticed a wire switches from one plug to the other

blue - turns into purple (goes to BR3)
black - black/red (goes to BR3)
black/red - black (goes to CN5)
red - red (goes to CN5)

should the black join the black
should the black/red join the black/red

also can the one or both of these boards work with the 5+ and ground wired in opposite, but figuring if someone can confirm what these is wired at (ensure yours is working) then I can swap around before I connect up the dmd fix cable as don't want to bugger something up.

If someone can help then I can list the info and can only aid others.

[swinks]

here is the photo of the plug cross over as well as a photo from the net of the BR3 that the mixed wires link up to and also pinwiki said to consider a regulator chip

Question - how do I count the leg number on a chip to see if this could possibly be my issue



lastly this is the pinwiki site
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega

[Blktgr74]

I should have my new power supply board by Wednesday. So I may be able to offer some help later in the week once I get it up and running.

[swinks]

I should have my new power supply board by Wednesday. So I may be able to offer some help later in the week once I get it up and running.

What type of board did you get....

[Blktgr74]

Got a rebuilt one out of a Maverick

[beaky]

here is the photo of the plug cross over as well as a photo from the net of the BR3 that the mixed wires link up to and also pinwiki said to consider a regulator chip

Question - how do I count the leg number on a chip to see if this could possibly be my issue



lastly this is the pinwiki site
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega

one end of the chip will have a semi circle indent in it or / and a small dot next to a pin. this pin is pin 1.
or with the indent to the top pin 1 will be the top left pin

[swinks]

spent a 5-6 hours researching and fixing and PLAYING  

- firstly the Baywatch schematics are poor for the view of the power board (what colours go where) but realised after a little while that the next super large DMD released might be the same in wiring which it was and the schematics for the power supply board were much clear. Did my check and everything was fairly good except how I recorded colours next to numbers yesterday was incorrect for a few but the colours were all correct so tick done - see below the Frankenstein schematic for a reference for others

- tried to install the suggested patch power lead and didn't have the right molex tool (I think) so will see beaky to make / supply an piggy back adaptor

- discovered that at some stage I reversed the CN5 plug as it was very worn and the plug can go in both ways hence why the board was not getting 5+ to the correct pins and me being the fool for not taking a photo and making notes before pulling things apart.  

- returned the CN5 plug to the correct orientation and the sort of worked on and off on a few start ups so tried to bend the pins a little on the power supply board to firm things up a little and I was in action - playing 20-30 games and left on for a few hours and no blank outs at all.

lesson learnt - take photos, take notes and understand the schematic better before launching in to a repair.

- what to do now - send the leads and power supply board to beaky to get a check over and the CN5 lead remade and the socket on the board replaced plus a check over as still wasn't pulling 5+v and one track looks a little suspect but dmd was operating on 4.83v which defied the articles on what was stated it needed.