Williams Indiana Jones The Adventure Restoration

[turbo27]

Update,
Coin door painted and re-installed. Headboard re-attached and circuit boards and power supply electrical looms plugged in.

Pulled the cover off the playfield, and thought bugger it - it needs to be stripped and cleaned properly.

My question -  it obviously has a mylar sheet added to the top of the playfield and around the bumpers, it's dirty and faded, more so than the unprotected areas. See picture

Will cleaning this, bring it back to life, or do I need to bite the bullet, remove all the mylar and polish all the playfield. Do I then need to re fit mylar? Or home use don't worry.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

[Dluth]

Any chance of cleaning it? If it bothers you, I'd remove it but it's pretty hard to see back there so I'd be inclined to leave it myself as long as you get any dirt off it. Depends how much work you want to put in I guess.

[pinsanity]

Option 1:
If you leave it on, it will take hours to polish it by hand to get it to anything acceptable.

Ideally you would use a high speed drill with a mini buffing tool attachment and Novus 3 or other cutting compound to clean it that will fit in between the white bumper bases. Most of the topside of the upper playfield will need to be stripped anyway to get in there.



Option 2:
I opted to remove the mylar altogether and not replace it, as in a home environment it will be fine. Use De-Solv-It to weaken the glue, wait for the desolvit to work its way in and then peel the mylar away at a 180 degree angle.

The mylar around the bumpers is one piece and extends across to to the single drop target on the right, so you need to be a bit careful on those arrow inserts as the mylar will want to lift up the insert art when you peel it away.

The bonus is the art underneath looks factory fresh once the mylar is removed.



PS: Not sure if you are going custom or not, but those red bumper caps are from a Data East machine.  

[turbo27]

Thanks Pinsanity,
Option 2.

Looking closer at the plastics, there a quite a few broken areas, RTBB has the kit for $145. So reckon I'm going to take a heap of photos and try for the strip down, clean and hope like hell I can remember how to put it back!

No didn't realise the bumper caps were wrong - cheers

BTW love the new Predator vid, very envious, great movie and sound effects.

[Dluth]

The strip down is ok but definitely take lots of photos. I put each part with it's associated screws, nuts etc in ziplock bags and kept them in the order that I took them off, numbering the bags. I found Garrett Lee's guide invaluable - it is for a full shop out but he goes through strupping the playfield in a good order.

[Strangeways]

The plastics would be a great option as you have done the cabinet and the playfield might look "out of place" if it has broken plastics etc.

With the factory mylar on DMD pins, I've used the freeze spray method a few times without incident.

[turbo27]

Playfield
Firstly thanks to Dluth, great tip re sorting and Garrett Lee's guide was fantastic, cheers

Camera in hand, I think I took almost 50 photos during the strip down.

Playfield stripped and parts sorted. Removed parts in the same order as outlined in Garrett Lee's guide, helped enormously.

Did not remove everything as you can see, going to clean around what I can, not wanting to 'over challenge' myself by removing more than I can remember to put back.

[turbo27]

Cleaning

Mylar came off quite easy. Was able to lift a corner with my finger nail and then pull. It unfortunately also lifted 2 insert decals, they were stuck hard to the mylar.

Office Works showed De-Solv-It but not in stock, so I used white spirits to remove the gum residue. Worked really well.

Nifty spray, clean cloth and a non scratch kitchen scourer removed the remaining dirt.

Question - planning on purchasing Novus 2 with my next order. On the top of the playfield picture there is still very noticeable marks(above Indy) and dull finish. Can I expect to clean this off with Novus, and try something else before, or are those marks/gouges there to stay?

Otherwise next step will be a Novus clean, then Meguirars Carnauba wax. Parts cleaning to follow

[robm]

Get into that ball trail at the top of indy with shellite and a magic eraser

[Dluth]

++ for magic eraser for the ball trails. Not sure about the bit above Indy - try Novus and if there are still marks try magic eraser (but carefully carefully!). I used isopropyl alcohol to dampen my erasers.

With the metal parts I started by using Brasso on them which seemed to work well. I then got lazy and chucked a heap into the dishwasher and this seemed to clean them just as well. No doubt there are other techniques that are better but I could tell from wiping the ramps and other metal parts aftwrwards that at least the superficial dirt had come off.
Don't forget to clean the under playfield ball tunnels too.

I'm doing things in the reverse order to you - done the playfield and now have to move onto the cabinet which scares me!

Send Garrett a thank you email at mrglee@yahoo.com, I'm sure he'll appreciate it. No way could I have done the shop out without his guide. He is also the one that worked out how to get the frog bonus so he's a bit of a legend in my eyes.

[turbo27]

Thanks Dluth,

Might just try the dishwasher idea, and then elbow grease on anything needing it.

I hit the ball tracks with a magic eraser and nifty, BIG improvement. Will touch up with Novus once it arrives.

Insert decals ordered, since I buggered up two removing the mylar - Yes I was worned  That wasn't cheap, but I did ensure it was the ones that DONOT need to be cleared. Now more work to remove and replace the remaining inserts.

Good luck with the cabinet, I really enjoyed that part, where as the electrics boggle me

Parts order this week.

[Dluth]

Nah, putting back the playfield is the fun bit. You will at some stage get to the 'where the hell does that screw/part/random thing I've never seen before go' bit though!

[turbo27]

Spare parts have started to arrive  

Installation of a cliffy. First time, looks easy, 3 screw holes and adhesive tape, BUT do I need to repair this hole?. The cliffy covers all the damage, but I don't want to find out later that I should have when it starts to lift.

Maybe something like quick wood to re-form the hole  

Other question, how good a result can I expect from these ball tracks. The picture actually shows the indent, and rough surrounding playfield (can really feel it under the finger tip). The areas have all been worked with a magic eraser, and now that I have my Novus pack, how hard do I go at it - DO NOT want to remove paint.

Also have new insert decals coming soon. That will obviously improve the INDY section.

I have Meguirars Carnauba wax to finish it with. BTW Supercheap Auto are not continuing to stock, it is a run out item, I was lucky to get hold of.

Been busy polishing and shinning all the metal parts. Struggled to remove dirty tracks with just Brasso and elbow grease. Added a buffing wheel to the drill chuck on my lathe ...wow...went the lathe over the bench grinder as it gives you more maneuverability. Cheap and nasty from SCA is working a treat.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/3-Pce-Cleaning-Polishing-Set.aspx?pid=272931#Cross

[turbo27]

Update.
Decals arrived from the States.....finally. UV cured so no need for a clear coat. Have only done the decals that needed replacement. They are slightly larger than the rebate from the insert. Really not sure if I should trim? They do sit and stick very well despite my alignment on some 

Mode start hole repaired. Selleys Knead it. Fantastic stuff, moulded it to the hole, and then using the Cliffy protector I pushed it hard into place. This imprinted into the Knead it, making a perfect fit. I'm really confident that the ball when ejected will not lift the cliffy.

Just about finished cleaning, polishing and buffing. Post and screw heads that looked really quite crappy, 30 seconds on the buffing wheel look like brand new. 

New ramp and plastics from RTBB going in, and correct red bumper caps thanks to pinsanity.

The put back is a bit of a jigsaw, but along with Garrett Lees guide, it's all looking good.

[turbo27]

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