solenoid board woes....help needed

[Sinbad79]

Bally
Yep, verified the correct switches selected for the game, also cleared the Altek's memory.

Did a switch test and had some odd results, i found that the switches from number 21 onwards corresponded to the manual, with the exception of the ball kicker which is switch 35 in manual but switch 34 in the game.

Switches from 10-20 did not correspond to the manual whatsoever...
For example
Switch 10 yellow drop target was actually sw02 in game
Switch 11 blue drop target was actually sw02 in game
There are more examples of this throughout the game...

So i started doing a switch matrix verification and have noticed that for the most part ST2C, ST3D, ST4E matrix colours all reconciled however ST0 and ST1, in particular chute and drop target wiring has been messed with.

The drop target assembly has the common ground wire removed on the last target, and wires are missing on some of the switch lugs corresponding to the switch matrix....

I assume that because ofnthese issues, the MPU is registering some of the switches incorrectly and hence the switch number reconciliation issues...

[studley67]

even ,wtf you talking about

[Sinbad79]

Whats not to understand about what i wrote?
Switch numbers in the manual dont match to what is seen under a switch test in the game...

[studley67]

well fix the wiring issues first on the playfield.i/we have assumed they are correct.but it looks like you got a f..up up dodgy playfield.no new board is going to fix that.why do you think it would be an easy fix and you make lots of money?i and everyone else KNOWS you will never make any money on a pin.you can not polilsh a turd

[Sinbad79]

Drunk again, or just your usual obnoxious self. You seem to polish turds rather well 
Yea the plan is to get rich and retire from selling 1 pin  

[studley67]

good luck,even

[studley67]

you have my phone no.and so does everyone else on this forum.so stop trying to make me look like a drunk idiot.when i am trying to help you,mate.call me if you need to.but research what you are going to talk about.read up on what you are doing.you cann not expect to know it all in the short time you have had your pins.read,learn and in maybee a feew years time you will be where the rest of us are.

[Sinbad79]

I'm generally a very respectful and greatful kind of person, and appreciate when people offer help. That also goes for your help so far Damien. However, comments such as can't polish a turd for instance have no place to be honest, it's offensive.

I agree with your last post, and in case you hadn't noticed, I am researching and learning.

Once the wiring is sorted, playfield rebuilt and game running, will it still be a turd then?

In the month I've had this machine and with some research and help from forum members, I've rebuilt the rectifier board, fixed the SDB and identified the wiring issues that require fixing.... I think I'm doing OK

[Boots]

I think what Damien is trying to say is fix one problem at a time, and research thoroughly before asking questions, that's the best way to learn.
You seem to jumping around on wild tangents without completely eliminating the root cause of each issue.

Start from the beginning and work your way through it, that is always the best way, jumping steps along the way only compounds your problems.

[Ballywannabe]

Bally
Yep, verified the correct switches selected for the game, also cleared the Altek's memory.

Did a switch test and had some odd results, i found that the switches from number 21 onwards corresponded to the manual, with the exception of the ball kicker which is switch 35 in manual but switch 34 in the game.

Switches from 10-20 did not correspond to the manual whatsoever...
For example
Switch 10 yellow drop target was actually sw02 in game
Switch 11 blue drop target was actually sw02 in game
There are more examples of this throughout the game...

So i started doing a switch matrix verification and have noticed that for the most part ST2C, ST3D, ST4E matrix colours all reconciled however ST0 and ST1, in particular chute and drop target wiring has been messed with.

The drop target assembly has the common ground wire removed on the last target, and wires are missing on some of the switch lugs corresponding to the switch matrix....

I assume that because ofnthese issues, the MPU is registering some of the switches incorrectly and hence the switch number reconciliation issues...

OK, carefully go through the switches and try and return them to their correct state.  Look for: wires removed, particularly if this breaks a 'daisy chain'; diodes missing or incorrectly oriented; broken diodes, wires not in the right place.  

Also, carefully go through the connectors on the MPU (J2 and J3) and make sure all the wires are in the right place - people will swap them and this causes all sorts of grief!

When you say the common ground was removed from the DT, do you mean the power wire?  If so that has no impact, but was probably removed due to Q11 always blowing.  You can easily disconnect the whole target bank by unplugging it and seeing if the rest of the switches then read correctly, and if so you have isolated the problem.

Hang in there - it will all come together

[Sinbad79]

Thanks Bally.
I think I have converged to the root of the issues now, and it is most likely that the wiring to the drop targets and  coin door are causing the problems. These are on the same "wiring chain" if you like.

I''ll work through tracing the wires on the playfield and address any issues as I go and also verify J2 and J3 pinouts.

Here is a photo of the drop target wiring. The braided wire across the switches had been removed from the black DT, so I've replaced it with wire (see pic). There are also wires omitted from a couple of the switch lugs...

[Ballywannabe]

You are going to have to get better at reading the schematics!  remove the wire you have added, it should not be there, the red drop has a white red and a white brown.  The other 3 targets have a brown white in common, hence bing connected by the braid.  As I said, disconnect the whole bank and see if the rest of the switched read correctly.

[Boots]

You are going to have to get better at reading the schematics! 

Agree, you need to study the schematics properly before making changes, otherwise you introduce more problems.
Print out the schematics, sit down while your watching TV at night and study through them, write notes on the printout to prompt you to look at certain things on the machine.
Learn to spot what looks original and what looks like it has been modified
Generally if something has been modified, it either looks dodgy or different to the rest of the wiring.
Hacks are usually done with whatever materials are handy for the person doing them, that makes them stand out.

[Sinbad79]

Advice taken on board.
I generally already do what you guys describe, manual printed and bound at work....and read over at night, it is a learning curve for sure.

Looks like I've introduced some of tbose issues, live and learn, it's what it's all about.

[Mr Pinbologist]

Here is a pic of the wiring of the drops on my own Galaxy, hope it helps 

Cheers...Mitch