Stern - Cosmic Princess

[Zedman]

I think that is beyond my capability.

Sounds like it's Time to do some checking before next power on. Maybe using a series test lamp jig or variac would be good to avoid further damage. Semiconductors are gonna be quicker at blowing than you getting to a switch.

A series test lamp jig takes about 10 minutes to make and costs about $5. A variac may be out of your price comfort zone though.
Google is your friend if you need details of how to make a test jig. Z

[Rossco]

Thanks .... continuing with process after a few days break due to other activities. I need to check the soldering - because that has definitely caused a major malfunction and don't want to put it back until that is sorted.

[Sinbad79]

Rosco
could you do me a favour and measure the resistance across the 3 POTS on the sound card - let me know what values you get for each?
Many thanks!

[Rossco]

Apologies for the delay in responding ... I was wandering around the Mediterranean for most of July.

Is it possible to test pots without putting the solenoid board back? The board is still lying on my desk after the last attempt. Have decided not to try and rework the board again myself - last attempt got 3rd degree burns on my hand from the soldering iron and the thing didn't even work afterwards. Have a few options to try to get the board sorted/replaced so will explore them when time permits. Currently working 3 jobs with little free time.

[Rossco]

OK - back to the job at hand now.

Working carefully this time.... I resoldered all the header pins back in and added an earth lead as per the .NL website. Still not working. Everything lights up like a Christmas tree though...

I checked for any shorting spots and cleaned between contact points to make sure there was no shorting.

One observation I did make was that the female connecter seems to be very loose fitting now and barely gets on. I used the 2.54 header pins and they seem much SHORTER that the ones that were already on it. Quite a bit shorter in fact! I haven't got around to the female header plastic holders and their pins, but wanted to test the progress - it should at least perform like the old setup bit - perhaps even correctly... but only all lights on permanently!

Question is - are there different lengths of the actual pins in the 2.54mm headers? I was thinking of buying a new replacement board but want to complete my "pinball apprenticeship" and at least try and get things working. This will likely mean another trip to Altronics though ...

TIA, Rossco

[Rossco]

Removed the .1 pins and replaced them with new. Same situation - all lights go on and stay on permanently. Looks like I will have to buy a replacement solenoid board. Into the bin with the old one...

[Rossco]

New board ordered and should arrive any day now. Keen to get this machine up and running again. Been gathering dust in the garage for too long. Will likely put it on Gumtree and sell it around Xmas time.

[Rossco]

New board arrived and fitted.

1. Powers up with sound

2. NO scores at all (all LEDs dead)

3. Game starts - no table bumpers or targets work, flippers work

4. After about 45 seconds. everything switches off

Any suggestions welcomed.... TIA

[Sinbad79]

Rectifier board issues? Have you checked the voltage test points or even the fuses on the rectifier board?

[Rossco]

Thanks for the suggestions. I visually checked the fuses under the play table and they seemed OK. I will check again and have a closer inspection. I have got a meter somewhere so may be able to do a proper check too...
Will report back ...

[Rossco]

I checked this board with a whole row of fuses - one seemed to have blown (see pic).

Any idea what fuses I need? I seem to recall something about "slow burning" or something. There is a coil of fuse wire inside.

[ralph67]

Yes Slow blow fuse, must replace with the slow blow type. Playfield coils not working? check fuse under playfield , should be near the flipper mechs if that has blown no Playfield coils will work . Did you check the voltages on the rectifier board with only J2 connected?? only when these  voltages are present and correct can you start plugging the rest in .

[ralph67]

No displays? check fuse inside head box , Carefull high voltage here!!, Unplug from wall before removing and checking . at least turn game off under cabinet!

[Rossco]

Thanks - starting to make sense now. I have got a voltmeter - is there a test procedure?

[ralph67]

Hang on i just noticed the large white Resistor on the rectifier board is f**ked by the looks of it and need replacing before you go any further!!