Project Pinballs - A Warning !

[ddstoys]

Didn't think it was a witch hunt mate just saying anyone can bring them in without knowing a thing

[Strangeways]

Didn't think it was a witch hunt mate just saying anyone can bring them in without knowing a thing

+1

Not a "witch hunt", but a reminder that any project machine, either private or dealer, needs to be checked for safety irrespective of the seller's insistence of it's history.

[johnwartjr]

For me, while I've always bought projects because they were cheaper -  I also buy projects because I intend to rework everything.

Of all the boards I've had come across my bench in the last year, not a single one has had the correct fuses everywhere. Some are pretty close, but none have had correct fuses everywhere. And many have the 'wire soldered across the blown fuse' mod.

You have to do your homework, you have to be careful, and you have to pay attention to what you see.

[Dluth]

Thank-you for the game (and life!) saving advice.

I have recently seen several "project pinballs" in my workshop that have been safety hazards. I keep a log of all games that are sent to me for repairs, but recently I received a game that "exploded" once the customer brought the game home and plugged it in. I've been repairing pinballs for many years, and technically, I have a process I undertake prior to even plugging a game into the wall socket - regardless of where it came from (country of original) or where it was bought from (private or dealer).

Here's a quick checklist of what is needed when buying a Project Game ;

1 - All fuses removed, checked for proper rating and then re inserted

Common problem from imported games is that the mains fuse is rated higher for the USA, and the game will still have that fuse. It needs to be removed. The other issue is that previous operators always "over fuse" games to hide the real issues with the game. As long as the coin mech works, it will be ok !

2 - Check the power jumpers

This is where you need the manual for your game. If you are buying a project game from a dealer, DEMAND the manual be included with the game, and not placed on eBay separately ! Depending on the game, you may need to rewire the transformer, or set jumpers on a connector. NEVER EVER rely on the seller.

3 - Replace the line cord

Easy on some games - just change the "kettle" plug style cord. On older games, you will need an electrician or a qualified person to cut out the old cord and replace it with a new cord. I would consider changing the EMI Filter at this stage, and if the game is from the USA, you will need to change the Varistor.

4 - Mains Fuse holder

Common for these to be fatigued and troublesome. These can be changed as part of the process of replacing the varistor and EMI filter.

5 - Tag and Test

After this work is completed, it does not hurt to have the game checked for electrical issues even after the above is undertaken

PRIOR to buying ANY project game, disregard any information given to the buyer by the seller. They just want your $. So when you hear statements like "It came from a collection in country X", "It came from a collection in country Y" - Don't believe it ! DON'T go home and plug the game in expecting it to be electrically safe ! I have seen games described as being "from Germany" (220VAC) that were really from the USA (110VAC).. You can only guess what happens when the unsuspecting buyer uses their bunnings power converter and plugs it in the wall socket ! YES - It HAS happened - and the repair was costly for the buyer.

Part of the hobby is education. The Electrical side of a pinball can be lethal. Please be careful !

Also, when buying a project pinball, always ask for a receipt. If it is not provided, don't buy the game. There's no recourse when things go wrong.

[Limorange]

That goes for arcades too, visual and safety inspection is a must before any power applied.

[Strangeways]

That goes for arcades too, visual and safety inspection is a must before any power applied.

Even more serious with 20KV on the CRT.

[Spanky]

This is what I found in mine:



(That's a 250V 13A fuse)