Twilight Zone spruce up

[robm]

Got half way through the Easter break and decided to get my hands dirty. I will see how i go with this one, as bub number 3 is due in 4 weeks, so might be pushing it to get it done by then!

This was a machine i picked up off a local who collects/repairs but had too much on his plate so offloaded a couple of machines to me.  A few introductory pics - while machine is filthy, playfield is very good with no wear or insert movement.  Cab is pretty solid.



A few bits and pieces floating around the bottom of the headbox









Most of the clock in the coin box



Packet of ratsack in the base of cab...



Amazing the lack of wear around the slot machine kickout



Seen better days...



First part was to get the game to work before stripping.  The power driver board looked a bit tired, particularly J101 and J102 connectors which bring power in. So before starting the machine up, i replaced those header pins and plugs, as well as the GI header pins at J120 and J121. I have repaired quite a few power driver boards now, and 90% of reset issues have been J101 or J102 related.  I also performed the mod (which some consider a hack) of putting a 22 ohm resistor between the 5V regulator and ground, which bumps the voltage output up to a solid 5 to 5.08V.  The 5V regulator can be within spec from the factory, and still cause reset issues - this mod overcomes this problem.

Machine then powered up with all the correct voltages.  Then it started resetting - i started methodically working backwards from the MPU board - and the header plug on the MPU (not pins on the board as it was a new Homepin replacement MPU) had a dodgy connection - replaced this plug, and no more resets.  Then the sound was very loud, and unable to be turned down (even though the DMD showed it should have been decreasing), i replaced the 47uf cap at C18 (part of the volume control circuit), and all was good!  Went through a few basic tests, and everything appears to function OK - a couple of coils not working, but will test them one by one during reassembly.  Clock was in pieces, but i will replace it with one of Ingo's aftermarket boards which are pretty much bulletproof.

So hooked in and stripped the playfield.  Some people are very organised and pedantic about putting parts in bags, labelling each part and putting the associated screws with each part.  I tend not to both - i take a digital photo of removing each part (pointing to it). Like below - this way, review pics in reverse order and its very easy to reassemble.



This also means, i can just dump everything in one spot - i put all the screws and nuts in one bowl, there are really only a few different sizes, and it it fairly obvious which ones are used in each place.



The wireforms had a bit of rust on them



Soaked them for 24 hrs in oxailc acid, and brings them back to almost like new - this can only be used for chromed parts - plated parts will come out looking much worse!



Then took the cab out to the shed, stripped everything out, and have started removing decals.  I find the heat gun and paint scraper works really well - prob 10-15 mins per side of the main cab to remove the decal

[shaneo]

Nice work - how it the mdf bottom panel?

[robm]

yep. will have to replace the base of the cab.  its too far gone to sand back

[Strangeways]

Looks like you will need a longer Easter break ! That game is a real challenge, but looking at the playfield, it should come up a treat. I suppose it is a good thing to get your hands dirty on the pinball before the newborn takes up most of your free time - congrats !

[andypinboy]

 I wish my wife was that dirty. Looks like it's been near the beach? How do u tell the bottom mdf is too far gone? (.eg. experience, u can push yr finger through it, other...)?

[Redback]

Excellent work,

Should make a cover for your pool work table,

keep up the restore posts,

Red

[Caveoftreasures]

Always love your Resto threads.

The before and after photos are amazing and showcase your resto talents.

Well done.

[DSB]

  Just read the thread title. Looks to be a bit more than a spruce up! Look forward to seeing the end product. 

[robm]

I wish my wife was that dirty. Looks like it's been near the beach? How do u tell the bottom mdf is too far gone? (.eg. experience, u can push yr finger through it, other...)?

you can generally see where it has swollen in patches and these are almost impossible to sand out nicely. Some bases also get a bit of a bow in them.  The rear of the headbox was pretty good bit there was one streak where water must have splashed and sat when the headbox was down, so i replaced it.

Got the cab and headbox all bogged, sanded and primed today. Will throw a few pics up later

[robm]

Spent a fair bit of time over the last few days bogging and sanding a few dings in the cab and headbox.  Replaced base of cab and back of headbox as the MDF had some slight water damage.

Then today, primed the cab, and painted black..

Also used used this handy holecutter for the speaker

[delarge]

Great pics and info, Rob. Might try this with my ramps on TSPP before getting them chromed. Might save some money.

[Cursed]

Also love reading your restos Rob, thanks for sharing and I will be watching with interest as TZ is one of my favorites.

[andypinboy]

I wish my wife was that dirty. Looks like it's been near the beach? How do u tell the bottom mdf is too far gone? (.eg. experience, u can push yr finger through it, other...)?

you can generally see where it has swollen in patches and these are almost impossible to sand out nicely. Some bases also get a bit of a bow in them.  The rear of the headbox was pretty good bit there was one streak where water must have splashed and sat when the headbox was down, so i replaced it.

Got the cab and headbox all bogged, sanded and primed today. Will throw a few pics up later

Thanks - good to know. I often see a game for sale that has at least one drink spill (at the front) - but can never tell how bad the damage is. Sounds like: 1. look for a bow including from underneath;  & 2. run yr hand over it is at least a start.

[turbo27]

Nice post Rob
Descriptive and informative supplying excellent information for 'us' amateurs to improve our techniques
Cheers

[robm]

Thanks for the comments, but turbo27 - i am certainly an amateur, i've just enjoyed getting in and giving this a go  sometimes you think you have gone in a bit too deep, but then thats how you learn new skills or techniques!

Sanded back everything and installed the new cab base, then brought the cab inside to do the main decals.

I have made up a plug for the hole where the coin door goes - this way, the decal doesn't sag in the middle and cause creases when you apply.  I did the front the wet method - hence the tape and newspaper covering the base of the cab



I cut the backing off 1/4 or so of the decal, then reapply the backing, but with an overlap underneath. This way, i apply that small section first (as pictured below), with a heavy weight on the rest to make sure it doesn't move, then move the weight to the applied section, and peel back the backing on the remaining section and apply it.

For some reason, i always seem to wait until my wife is 8.5 months pregnant when i need her help to apply decals...



All done with the main cab, just need to cut out a few more holes