tz resetting problem question

[pinball god]

Firstly a big thanks to Nino for getting me a filter cap in a hurry to help solve this problem. But when looking at my pcb I noticed that I'd already replaced the bridge rectifier and cap a few years ago. Can these things fail that quickly? Is there a way of testing a filter capacitor outside a circuit? I tested my br. Reason for the questions is that I'm guessing both these components have not failed but the connectivity was the issue. My original work was done when a complete novice at soldering/desoldering and saw these big blobs of solder everywhere. I did run the extra trace wires in the original work but I'm really thinking the component side soldering may have lifted from the top traces. Idiot me didn't test for continuity and replaced the components taking a lot more care. My first repair did last up to now, but do others agree my theory could be feasible or did the mentioned components die. The br tested good with a multimeter on diode mode.  

[Boots]

Firstly a big thanks to Nino for getting me a filter cap in a hurry to help solve this problem. But when looking at my pcb I noticed that I'd already replaced the bridge rectifier and cap a few years ago. Can these things fail that quickly? Is there a way of testing a filter capacitor outside a circuit? I tested my br. Reason for the questions is that I'm guessing both these components have not failed but the connectivity was the issue. My original work was done when a complete novice at soldering/desoldering and saw these big blobs of solder everywhere. I did run the extra trace wires in the original work but I'm really thinking the component side soldering may have lifted from the top traces. Idiot me didn't test for continuity and replaced the components taking a lot more care. My first repair did last up to now, but do others agree my theory could be feasible or did the mentioned components die. The br tested good with a multimeter on diode mode.  

Have you systematically checked the connectors?

[pinball god]

I did check the connector on the secondary which can play a part. Reseated with no joy. These were updated a while ago too

[robm]

Did you replace the plugs and header pins on J101 and J102?

I know others may have different experiences, however i have repaired many reset issues, and can only recall one where the Bridge itself was the fault. Sometimes it was the solder connections or traces going to the bridge or cap, but most times it has been the connectors (either pins or plugs).

Also, have you checked the 5V at the MPU? TZ has a 'Z' connector which is pretty prone to failure over time and can cause voltage drop between the power driver and MPU boards.

Personally, if i have removed the power driver board, i tend to do the modification (i accept some people will call this a hack) of putting a 22 ohm resistor between the 5V regulator and ground.  The reason for this, is that the 5V regulators from the factory can have too low an output (i think they can be classed as a 5V regulator, even if they only put out 4.8V), so this is a way of bumping the output up to normally around 5.03V.

In all of my machines, once i have done this mod, replaced J101 and J102 plugs and header pins, i have not had reset issues since

[DSB]

Highly doubt the components have died in such a short amount of time.

Have you read this yet.  http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Does it reset during gameplay or in attract mode or both?

Is the correct regulator installed in the machine?

You could try to test the 5 volt test point on the driver board and then check for the 5 volts on the CPU to see if there is any voltage drop. Make sure to use a ground on the particular board you are testing to test which will ensure the board has a good ground.

A bit of testing could save some unnecessary work.

[63wizz]

I had a reset problem on my Roadshow, when flippers were hit.
I found if i reseated J114 on the driver board it would play ok for a while.
So i repinned J114 and hasent missed a beat since.

[pinball god]

All fixed now once replaced components but think it was the installation job on the last job that was the problem. Game started with the odd reset, then guaranteed reset when you hit both flippers hard, then eventually just hitting one flipper caused it. I think one or more of these blobs of solder separated from the pcb. When removing the old br it still has a couple of solder blobs on the legs.  I wish I tested continuity before replacing components. I do have real difficulty laying solder on the topside/component side of the pcb, it didn't seem to want to stick