All good advice above.
I am onto my second gamesroom/shed after recently moving. The original was a 15 x 7m shed, fully insulated and wired with no toilet. The new, yet to be constructed shed is to be 20 x 8m and full insulated.
The original shed had insul-blanket on the roof, which is the reflective foil with insulation stuck to it, very effective. The roof also had 3 whirly's installed, most likely overkill, could have got away with 2. I strongly advised you not to have any clear sheets on the roof, for two reasons, the blanket couldn't cover that section (defeats the purpose of the clear sheet) and the main reason it will be way too hot even on a mild day with just a clear sheet section. Sure the natural light is good for visibility, but the added heat isn't. Plus you don't want sunlight directly on your machines, fades the artwork quickly. You could always install a skylight if you wanted the natural light.
The walls, I constructed internal timber frames between each of the metal columns, they were backed with reflective foil and the frames were stuffed with pink batts. Some of the wall was finished off with plaster sheets, the others with villa-board. I installed conduits every 3 metres from the top of the frame, down half way within the wall cavity for the electrical wiring to easily drop down. I then installed aluminum cable ducting that ran around the walls about 1.2m from ground level. This was for all the power outlets, so each machine plugged in with the cable and plug not visible under the machine.
The cost of installation, timber framing etc adds significant cost to the total project, but if you live in a colder climate, southern Australia, I really advise you to spent the extra cash. If the night time temps don't get below 10 degrees then I probably wouldn't bother with the framing and pink batts, just go for the reflect foil on the walls. The enemy of these machines are hot humid conditions with heavy moisture content or cold temperature variants which cause condensation to form.
If you have the budget, do it right first time, otherwise you will never do it, or the job will take 5 times longer when you have to shift stuff around inside the shed to allow you to work on the walls. Good luck mate, you won't look back once it's all done and ready to use.
Oh just remembered, the size you are looking at 10.8 wide, will most likely require heavier gauge framework/higher price. Usually you can get more floor space if you can go longer rather than wider. There is a point where wider adds significant cost over longer. That's why my new shed is to be 20 x 8m. Initially I was going shorter and wider, but the added cost convinced me to go narrower and longer. It was good advice from the shed company I purchased from.
